Many flowers close when the sun goes down or the temperature drops, which could mean that your outdoor living areas lose some of their visual appeal at night. This may not be a concern for you, but if you enjoy spending time on your patio late in the day or often entertain in the evening, this is something you should consider.

Night blooming flowers can reflect the moonlight, add color for your guests to enjoy and are often much more fragrant than their day-blooming counterparts. One of the reasons flowers that bloom at night are often more aromatic is that they need to attract nocturnal pollinators that must find them in the dark. This is also why most night bloomers have white flowers that reflect light and are more visible at night.

By planting at least a few night blooming plants in your garden, you can enjoy your garden just as much at night as you do during the day. Breathe in the fragrance, watch butterflies and hummingbirds late into the evening, and enjoy splashes of color through the night.

To get you started, here are 13 flowers that bloom at night.

1. Evening Primrose

Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) is a biennial plant native to parts of North America. The blooms open quickly, which means you can sit on your patio in the evening and enjoy the show as the yellow flowers open before your eyes. They will then stay open until about noon the following day. Many parts of the plant are edible, and this is the source of evening primrose oil, which is used to treat eczema, premenstrual syndrome, multiple sclerosis, and rheumatoid arthritis.

Evening primrose typically blooms from late spring to late summer and attracts pollinators, including bees, moths, and butterflies.

2. Moonflower

Moonflowers (Ipomoea alba) have large, white or pink flowers (usually white) that open quickly in the evening and stay open until after sunrise. On cloudy days, they sometimes stay open later into the afternoon, but usually close in the morning once the sunlight reaches them. This perennial, evergreen vine grows quickly, prefers moist soil and requires at least partial sun, but prefers full sun.

Parts of this plant are edible, so it is very important that you differentiate between this moonflower and the next plant on the list, Datura, which is also sometimes referred to as moonflower and is highly poisonous.

3. Datura

Datura is sometimes called moonflower but more commonly referred to as devil’s trumpet. With large, showy, trumpet-shaped blossoms, these night blooming flowers in shades of pink, purple, yellow, or white are a beautiful addition to a night garden. However, a mentioned above, Daturas are highly poisonous, so they should be planted with caution and never in areas where children or pets spend time. Datura is so poisonous that some cultures have historically used it as poison.

Datura plants are usually grown as annuals and can grow to about six feet tall. They are often confused with Brugmansia (aka angel’s trumpets), but while devil’s trumpets and angel’s trumpets are closely related, they are separate genera.

4. Brugmansia

Angel’s trumpets (Brugmansia) are believed to be extinct in the wild but are commonly seen in gardens and can easily be found at garden centers. Angel’s trumpets and devil’s trumpets are often confused, but it easy to tell them apart. Angel’s trumpet is more or a bush or shrub and can even be grown as a tree, while devil’s trumpet is a leafy plant. Another easy-to-identify difference is that the large, peach, white, green, red, orange, or pink, trumpet-shaped flowers of the angel’s trumpet hang down towards the ground, while the blooms on a devil’s trumpet are erect, facing the sky.

These night blooming flowers are easy to grow in Coastal California and in inland areas that are in gardening zones 8 or 9, but, like Datura, angel’s trumpets are highly poisonous and should not be planted where children or pets spend time. The fragrance is lovely and will enhance your experience as you enjoy your night garden; just make sure they are out of reach if little ones or pets share your outdoor living areas.

5. Night Gladiolus

Night gladiolus (Gladiolus tristis) generally blooms in late spring to mid-summer and can grow to about four feet in height. It is a good grower in coastal and near-coastal California, but it is not drought tolerant and requires regular irrigation. They prefer full sun and well-draining soil, so be sure to mix in compost before planting corms if you are working with the clay soil so common in Southern California.

If you want to enjoy these light-yellow flowers that bloom at night and the spicy fragrance they release, be sure to plant them somewhere visible but out of reach for pets and children, since this is another poisonous plant that needs to be kept away from little hands.

6. Night Phlox

Night phlox (Zaluzianskya capensis) is also called midnight candy, which is more than just a fun name: It is a nod to the sweet fragrance released by this night blooming flower. Perfect in an evening fragrance garden or a moon garden, night phlox brings both fragrance and color in shades of pink, white and purple. There are even some that are a reddish-maroon hue. Night phlox is an annual that grows well in containers or flowerbeds and attracts butterflies, bees and birds to your garden.

Night phlox grows best in full sun or partial shade and is pretty drought-tolerant once established. The honey-almond-vanilla fragrance is a delightful addition to a night garden, particularly for summer and fall entertaining, when they are usually in full bloom.

7. Night-Blooming Jasmine

Night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum) is a member of the Solanaceae family, which means it is actually a nightshade and is not the jasmine most folks have in their gardens. This night blooming flower has white blossoms with hints of green and has a strong fragrance that is also most present at night. As an evergreen shrub, night-blooming jasmine adds visual interest to your night garden throughout the year. It is a good grower and is even considered a weed in some parts of the world.

The lovely fragrance makes this a good choice for growing near outdoor living areas, but keep in mind that all members of the Solanaceae family have some level of toxicity, and the strong scent is known to be an irritant for some folks with respiratory issues, such as asthma.

8. Night-Scented Orchid

You cannot always rely on night-scented orchid (Epidendrum nocturnum) to open its blooms at night, but you can rely on the fragrance those blooms release after the sun goes down. This swamp-loving flower is found in parts of Central America, South America, the West Indies, and Mexico and is most often found in Florida in the United States, but it can be grown elsewhere if you are diligent about watering and maintaining your plants.

Since these orchids do not require pollinators for propagation, the white and yellow flowers sometimes open infrequently or not at all.

9. Nicotiana

Nicotiana is a genus of plants that includes tobacco plants used for making cigars and cigarettes, but the variety that is smoked is usually not counted among the choices available at your local garden center. This night blooming plant can be transplanted from nursery plants, which is the fastest way to add color to your flowerbed, but it germinates quickly, so you might also try growing this one from seed.

The flowers that bloom at night usually come in shades of white, pink, green, or red and have a strong fragrance that attracts night pollinators to your yard. If you plant them near your patio, you may be able to enjoy the flowers and the hummingbirds they attract when they open in the late afternoon or early evening.

This is another member of the Solanaceae family, so – as with all nightshades – use caution when choosing a spot to plant this one.

10. Four O’Clock

Four o’clock (Mirabilis jalapa) flowers have some unique qualities when compared to other night blooming plants. A single four o’clock plant can produce more than one color of flower and a single flower will sometimes have more than one color. The colors most often found on four o’clocks are white, yellow, pink, red, or a stunning magenta, which makes them an easy choice for adding color to moon gardens.

Four o’clocks are often grown as annuals, but they can be grown as perennials in Coastal California. If you live in an area with cooler winters, they will die back with the first frost, but they will return in spring.

11. Casa Blanca Lily

Casa Blanca lilies (Lilium ‘Casa Blanca’) are fragrant, beautiful additions to a moon garden where their large, white flowers that bloom at night will reflect the moonlight. This is also a good addition to a cutting garden, just make sure to leave plenty of stem and leaves on the plant to ensure the bulb gets the energy it needs to overwinter in your garden and come back in the spring.

When planting these gorgeous flowers, keep in mind that all lilies are toxic to cats and dogs.

12. Evening Stock

Evening stock (Matthiola longipetala), also known as night-scented stock, is a hardy annual that can be grown just about anywhere in North America. While the purple and white flowers can look a little wilted during the day, the petals spread and come to life at night. This is also when evening stock is at its most fragrant, so be sure to plant it near your outdoor living areas if you often entertain in the evening.

13. Tuberose

Tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa) is perhaps best known for its inclusion in perfumes, which makes it a good choice if you are looking for a night blooming flower with a strong, inviting fragrance. This perennial plant is easy to grow from bulbs, prefers full sun and warmer climates, and produces clusters of white flowers on a long spike in mid- to late-summer. The white flowers will reflect the moonlight in your night garden, or you can use this one as a cutting flower for bouquets or floral arrangements.

You can grow tuberose in flowerbeds and borders, but it will also do just fine in large flowerpots, which might let you get this aromatic choice even closer to your outdoor entertaining areas.

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Sometimes, when you are looking for small trees for your garden, what you really need is a shrub that can be trained and pruned like a tree. For example, shrubs like hop bush or crepe myrtle make gorgeous trees and, since there is not much difference between a big shrub and a small tree, you will often see them referred to as trees and shrubs interchangeably.

So, to help you on your quest to find the perfect tree for a small space, here are 15 small trees and large shrubs for you to consider.

1. Crepe Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)

Crepe myrtle (also spelled crape myrtle) is a great example of a flowering shrub that can be grown as either a shrub or a tree. There are dozens of crepe myrtle varieties, including dwarf myrtles that grow anywhere from five to eight feet tall to deciduous and evergreen options that grow to heights upwards of 30 feet, with canopies that can reach 20 feet long. Choosing a variety like Lagerstroemia indica allows you to add brilliant color to a small yard or patio area with a flowering tree.

Crepe myrtle flowers, which have the delicate look of crepe paper, come in pinks, purple or white. Aside from the gorgeous flowers you can enjoy between late spring and fall, you will also enjoy that this small tree requires little maintenance and can thrive in just a small soil space.

• Botanical name: Lagerstroemia indica
• Height at maturity: 5-9 feet (dwarf varieties)
• Growing conditions: Warm, humid climates. Crepe myrtles are somewhat drought tolerant but will need extra water during hot months.
• Zones: 7 through 10

2. Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum)

This deciduous beauty may lose its gorgeous leaves in fall, but the elegant silhouette of the bare trunk and branches will provide plenty of visual interest in your garden throughout the winter.

Japanese maples like a little shade, but there are some cultivars that can better handle that sunny spot near your patio. While some varieties can grow quite tall, Japanese maples are ideal for small spaces because their compact root system does not require a large area of soil in which to spread out. In fact, some of these small trees can even be grown in large containers on your patio. Some are even grown as bonsais.

Depending on the variety you choose, leaf color can range from orange or green to deep purple, so do a little research before buying to determine which color will work best with your landscape design.

• Botanical name: Acer palmatum
• Height at maturity: 6-12 feet
• Growing conditions: Partial shade, rich, moist and well drained soil. Slightly acidic soil pH.
• Zones: 5 through 8

3. Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis)

Bay laurels can grow in such a small space that you can actually grow this one in a container on your patio. Left to its own devices, it can soar to more than 50 feet tall, but it can be pruned to keep it at a much more manageable size. Bay laurels will only grow as tall as their planted environment allows. If potted or planted in a limited soil space, they’ll remain much smaller — around 10-12 feet.

Bay laurels are evergreen trees that prefer full sun, part sun or part shade and are hardy in zones 8 through 11. Since you will be pruning it anyway to keep it small, save the leaves to dry for culinary use or to make aromatic wreaths for décor or gifts.

• Botanical name: Laurus nobilis
• Height at maturity: 10 to 60 feet tall. Depending on potting conditions
• Growing conditions: Full to partial sun. Native to Mediterranean climates. Well drained soil 
• Zones: 8 through 11

4. Semi-Dwarf Fruit Trees

If you love the idea of stepping into your garden to pick oranges for fresh-squeezed juice but do not have room for a 30-foot orange tree, semi-dwarf fruit trees might be your answer. Semi-dwarf fruit trees are half the size of their standard-size counterparts. This makes these small trees a perfect choice for small yards and allows homeowners to grow their own fruits even if they do not have much space.

Another advantage of choosing semi-dwarf fruit trees is that they begin producing fruit much sooner than full-size trees. This option comes in lots of varieties, so talk with a pro at your local garden center to determine which fruit trees will do best where you live. For folks living in Southern California, citrus fruits and avocados are usually a good choice, but this may not be the case if you live in an inland or mountainous area with hard freezes. 

• Botanical name: Apples, apricots apriums, pears, cherries, nectaries peach and plum varieties
• Height at maturity: 12 to 15 feet tall/wide
• Growing conditions: Full sun, soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0, well drained soil 
• Zones: 5 through 8 (depending on the fruit variety)

5. Dwarf Fruit Trees

For folks with even less space for their backyard orchard, there are dwarf fruit trees. Dwarf options generally grow several feet less than their semi-dwarf counterparts and some can be grown successfully in containers. While they do not produce nearly as much fruit as semi-dwarf options, dwarf trees reach maturity faster and start producing fruit sooner. Their size also makes it easier to harvest fruits and to perform maintenance tasks like pruning.

Like semi-dwarf trees, dwarf citrus trees come in many varieties, so do a little research to see which types of fruit trees will grow best where you live. Also, while it might seem like a shorter tree should be sturdier than their taller cousins, dwarf trees usually need to be staked at least until they reach maturity.

• Botanical name: Limes, lemons, orange, grapefruit and other citrus varieties
• High at maturity: 6 to 10 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full sun, soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0, loamy, well drained soil 
• Zones: 9 through 11 

6. Palo Verde (Cercidium)

Palo Verde trees are truly drought tolerant, so this is a great choice for Southern California and Arizona where we seem to be in a never-ending state of some level of drought. Some varieties reach 40 feet in height, so choose carefully if you are in the market for small trees.

Your best bet is Desert Museum Palo Verde, which is a hybrid that grows to be about 20 feet tall, has no thorns and has a long blooming season. Your other option is a Foothill Palo Verde, which also grows to about 20 feet tall but has thorns that make it a less-than-ideal choice for small spaces or spaces where children play. You will enjoy beautiful yellow blossoms with either of these varieties.

A fun fact about Palo Verde trees is that their green trunks and branches can photosynthesize. In fact, the trunk and branches do most of the work, which is unique in the plant community where photosynthesis is usually left up to the leaves. This unique quality allows Palo Verde trees to drop their leaves in times of extreme drought, which is a survival mechanism that makes this option particularly drought tolerant and able to survive in the desert.

• Botanical name: Cercidium floridum or Parkinsonia florida
• High at maturity: 15 to 30 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full sun, limited water, sandy, well drained soil 
• Zones: 8 through 11 

7. Little Gem Southern Dwarf Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)

If you are looking for small trees with big flowers, a Little Gem magnolia might be your perfect choice. These slow-growing evergreens do well in full sun, and have large, showy blooms from late spring through summer. If you have a spot in your garden that is part sun or part shade, this magnolia will still do fine, just know that you will see fewer flowers if you choose a shady spot.

Little Gem magnolias are not drought tolerant and require regular watering, so this is a better choice for folks looking for a tree for an area that already requires regular irrigation. For example, you might choose this magnolia for a flowerbed or border where you have a drip system. You can also grow this one in a container.

• Botanical name: Magnolia grandiflora
• Height at maturity: 15 to 25 feet
• Growing conditions: Partial shade to full sun, deeply watered, moist soil
• Zones: 7 through 9

8. Banana Shrub (Magnolia figo)

Banana shrubs are versatile, flowering shrubs that can be planted as a privacy hedge, will grow well in borders along fence lines, can be grown in containers on your patio, or can be added to your landscape design as small trees.

The yellow and purple flowers are not edible, but they give off a banana-like fragrance that makes them an aromatic addition to outdoor living areas. The deep green foliage of these trees also provides year-round visual interest to your yard.

These plants grow best in sunny tropical to subtropical climates, and will bloom fragrant flowers sporadically throughout the summer months. 

• Botanical name: Magnolia figo
• Height at maturity: 6 to 13 feet tall/wide
• Growing conditions: Partial to full sun, lightly moist soil, partially humid climates
• Zones: 7B through 10

9. California Lilac (Ceanothus)

The first thing to know about California lilacs is that they are not true lilacs, but they do have gorgeous clusters of flowers usually found in white, pale blue, dark blue, pink or lavender. The second thing to know is that there are dozens of cultivars that range in height from six inches to about 10 feet, so you will need to choose the taller versions to use this flowering shrub as a tree in your landscape design. 

This one is a California native, so it will require regular watering until established, and then infrequent, deep watering once or twice a month after that. If you plant your California lilacs in late fall, the rain we get over the winter will help take care of the early irrigation needs for these small trees.

Some cultivars are evergreen, some are deciduous, and each has its own blooming period. This means that you will want to work with a pro at your local garden center to find the variety of California lilac that best suits your needs. California lilacs are a great choice for a drought-resistant garden and for folks who want to attract birds, butterflies and pollinators to their yard.

• Botanical name: Ceanothus
• Height at maturity: 2 to 10 feet depending on the cultivar
• Growing conditions: Mediterranean-style climates, full sun and well drained, moist soil
• Zones: 8 through 10

10. Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)

Desert willows are a solid option if you are looking for small trees for a drought-tolerant garden. Native to southwest deserts, these deciduous beauties have only a brief leafless period but are still attractive, even when their branches are bare. Desert willows bloom from spring to early fall with dark pink, white, purple, or lilac flowers that look a bit like a cross between an iris and an orchid.

Some cultivars of this shrub or small tree can grow as tall as 24 feet, but others have a mature height of around five feet, which makes them a good choice for patios or small gardens. This drought-resistant option does not require excessive irrigation, but you are going to need to prune it regularly to maintain a tree-like shape. 

It’s an incredibly low maintenance plant that requires very little care.

• Botanical name: Chilopsis linearis
• Height at maturity: 12 to 18 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full sun with dry to medium moist soil, soil pH of 6.6-8.5
• Zones: 6 through 9 

11. California Juniper (Juniperus californica)

California juniper is another native, drought-tolerant option that works well in small, sunny spaces with dry soil. In fact, it requires little to no watering — ideal for people who don’t have lots of time to tend to their yards. These small trees have berry-like cones resting amongst scale-like leaves. This one is an evergreen, so you can enjoy the foliage throughout the year.

California junipers grow best at elevations between about 2,500 feet and 5,000 feet, so this one is best for folks living in foothills and mountainous areas in Southern California. This is also a good choice for gardeners hoping to provide habitat for birds and other wildlife.

Since these can be bonsaied, you should have no trouble growing your juniper in a container, if that is the space you are trying to fill.

• Botanical name: Juniperus californica
• Height at maturity: 10 to 25 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full sun with sandy, loamy, well-drained soil
• Zones: 8 through 10

12. Tea Trees (Leptospermum)

Tea trees is a general term used for a group of large shrubs or small trees in the myrtle family primarily native to Australia and New Zealand. You have probably seen tea trees pruned as shrubby hedges in Southern California, but you can also prune them as small trees for patios or outdoor living areas.

This evergreen shrub can be grown in borders and containers, so they are a good choice for small gardens and patios. Look for white, pink or red blooms from late spring through early fall.

Aside from the quality of being small in stature, tea trees also appeal to folks looking for options that are drought tolerant, deer resistant and attractive to pollinators.

• Botanical name: Leptospermum scoparium 
• Height at maturity: 6 to 10 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full sun or light shade with rich, medium moist, well-drained soil
• Zones: 9 through 12

13. California Wax Myrtle (Myrica californica)

Also called pacific wax myrtle, California bayberry or pacific bayberry, California wax myrtles are native to most of the west coast and straddle that line between evergreen shrub and small tree. While you can enjoy the dark green leaves throughout the year, you will also get white or yellow flowers in spring and summer, as well as purple berries.

This one is a drought-tolerant option that needs little water once established. Pacific wax myrtles are also tolerant of wind and salt spray, which means you can use them as a windbreak in coastal gardens. 

Since it is a fast-growing evergreen, this one can also be used to block unsightly views or make your patio a bit more private.

• Botanical name: Myrica californica
• Height at maturity: 6 to 25 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full or partial sun with moist clay, loam or sandy soils
• Zones: 7 through 10

14. Royal Purple Smoke Tree (Cotinus coggyria “Royal Purple”)

This deciduous tree is a perfect choice for adding color and visual interest to a small space. Royal purple smoke trees offer a completely different look than other trees on this list with their feathery plumes and purple-red foliage. 

They prefer full sun, part sun or part shade and are drought tolerant, so you can expect to water these regularly before they are established and occasionally after they are established.

You will want to prune them a bit to keep them looking like a tree, rather than a shrub, and to keep them small, but they require little maintenance other than that.

• Botanical name: Cotinus coggygria
• Height at maturity: 10 to 15 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full or partial sun with well-drained, loamy soils
• Zones: 4 through 9

15. California Redbud (Cercis occidentalis)

The California redbud – also known as western redbud – is native to the entire Southwestern United States and comes in both single-trunk tree and multi-trunk shrub options. This means you will need to be sure you select the right option for your landscaping needs.

This is a gorgeous, flowering tree that offers visual interest every season of the year from the magenta flowers you will enjoy in spring to the elegant silhouette of silvery branches in the winter. The flowers on California redbuds attract hummingbirds, bees, butterflies and other native pollinators, bringing more life into your backyard space. They prefer full sun or partial sun and are drought tolerant once established, but you will see more blooms in the spring if you give it a little extra water.

• Botanical name: Cercis occidentalis
• Height at maturity: 10 to 20 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full to partial sun with well-drained clay, loam and sand soils
• Zones: 6 through 9 

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best small tree to plant near a house?

When picking a tree to plant near a house, you’ll want to consider the root system. As for underground piping. Dwarf or semi-dwarf fruit trees like crabapples, cherry, and citrus trees or small varieties like Japanese maples, California redbuds, or dwarf magnolias are all excellent options to plant near a home.

What kind of tree will stay small?

Most of the trees on this list above are great options if you’re looking for a small variety. However, some species on this list, like Palo Verde, can grow up to 40 feet depending on the variety, so if you’re worried about the size of a tree long term, it might be best to err on the side of caution and chose a shrub-type tree like a California Wax Myrtle or a California juniper species or work with a professional landscaper with knowledge of different tree varieties. 

What is the fastest growing small tree?

There are a wide variety of fast growing small trees such as the American redbud, flowering dogwood, saucer magnolia, sweetbay magnolia, evergreen magnolia and red maple — all making them good choices if you’re looking to create a shaded space in your yard quickly.

Your Local San Diego Landscaping Experts

When it comes to picking a small tree for your front yard, backyard or anywhere else on your property, the options are endless. In addition to basic growing considerations like hardiness zones, climate and care, you’ll want to consider the space you have to work with and how a tree may impact your landscaping and home as a whole. If you need help with landscaping design in San Diego or the surrounding areas, our team at Install-It-Direct is here to help you bring your outdoor living space and landscape together. 

Originally published on January 6, 2019. Refreshed on 9/27/22.

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Perhaps words of wisdom from famous people, books and historians might motivate you to work on the garden. Here are thirty-six of the best gardening quotes and sayings out there and a few sharable graphics to keep the inspiration going on Pinterest, Facebook or your platform of choice.

1. No occupation is so delightful to me as the culture of the earth, and no culture comparable to that of the garden. -Thomas Jefferson

2. What is a weed? A weed is a plant whose virtues have not yet been discovered. -Ralph Waldo Emerson

3. Ol’ man Simon, planted a diamond. Grew hisself a garden the likes of none. Sprouts all growin’ comin’ up glowin’ Fruit of jewels all shinin’ in the sun. Colors of the rainbow. See the sun and the rain grow sapphires and rubies on ivory vines, Grapes of jade, just ripenin’ in the shade, just ready for the squeezin’ into green jade wine. -Shel Silverstein

4. The best place to find God is in a garden. You can dig for him there. –George Bernard Shaw

5. Earth laughs in flowers. -Ralph Waldo Emerson

6. We can complain because rose bushes have thorns, or rejoice because thorn bushes have roses. -Abraham Lincoln

7. All gardeners know better than other gardeners. -Chinese Proverb

8. If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need. –Cicero

9. I don’t like formal gardens. I like wild nature. It’s just the wilderness instinct in me, I guess. –Walt Disney

10. Gardening is how I relax. It’s another form of creating and playing with colors. –Oscar de la Renta

11. Gardens are not made by singing ‘Oh, how beautiful,’ and sitting in the shade. –Rudyard Kipling

12. It will never rain roses: when we want to have more roses we must plant more trees. –George Eliot

13. A good garden may have some weeds. –Thomas Fuller

14. God Almighty first planted a garden. And indeed, it is the purest of human pleasures. –Francis Bacon

15. Kiss of the sun for pardon. Song of the birds for mirth. You’re closer to God’s heart in a garden than any place else on earth. –Dorothy Frances Gurney

16. My garden is my most beautiful masterpiece. –Claude Monet

17. Those who labor in the earth are the chosen people of God. –Thomas Jefferson

18. Do not spread the compost on the weeds. -William Shakespeare, Hamlet

19. Gardening is not a rational act. –Margaret Atwood

20. What’s a butterfly garden without butterflies? –Roy Rogers

21. Love is like a beautiful flower which I may not touch, but whose fragrance makes the garden a place of delight just the same. –Helen Keller

22. Keep love in your heart. A life without it is like a sunless garden when the flowers are dead. –Oscar Wilde

23. One of the most tragic things I know about human nature is that all of us tend to put off living. We are all dreaming of some magical rose garden over the horizon instead of enjoying the roses that are blooming outside our windows today. –Dale Carnegie

24. On Saturday afternoons when all the things are done in the house and there’s no real work to be done, I play Bach and Chopin and turn it up real loudly and get a good bottle of chardonnay and sit out on my deck and look out at the garden. –Maya Angelou

25. Gardening is learning, learning, learning. That’s the fun of them. You’re always learning. –Helen Mirren

26. Clarity is the most important thing. I can compare clarity to pruning in gardening. You know, you need to be clear. If you are not clear, nothing is going to happen. You have to be clear. Then you have to be confident about your vision. And after that, you just have to put a lot of work in. –Diane von Furstenberg

27. It’s true that I have a wide range of interests. I like to write and paint and make music and go walking on my own and garden. In fact, gardening is probably what I enjoy doing more than anything else. –Viggo Mortensen

28. If I’m in the country, my big idea is to do nothing. It means talking, it means cooking with the leftovers in the fridge – l’art d’accommoder les restes – it means gardening. –Christian Louboutin

29. My passion for gardening may strike some as selfish, or merely an act of resignation in the face of overwhelming problems that beset the world. It is neither. I have found that each garden is just what Voltaire proposed in Candide: a microcosm of a just and beautiful society. –Andrew Weil

30. To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow. –Audrey Hepburn

31. If you truly love nature, you will find beauty everywhere. –Vincent van Gogh

32. Nature will bear the closest inspection. She invites us to lay our eye level with her smallest leaf, and take an insect view of its plain. -Henry David Thoreau

33. Gardening is a humbling experience. –Martha Stewart

34. Almost every person, from childhood, has been touched by the untamed beauty of wildflowers. –Lady Bird Johnson

35. There is nothing pleasanter than spading when the ground is soft and damp. –John Steinbeck

36. Look deep into nature, and you will understand everything better. –Albert Einstein

37 (bonus). Study nature, love nature, stay close to nature. It will never fail you. –Frank Lloyd Wright

38 (bonus). When you take a flower in your hand and really look at it, it’s your world for the moment. I want to give that world to someone else. Most people in the city rush around so, they have no time to look at a flower. I want them to see it whether they want to or not. –Georgia O’Keefe

Your Turn…

Are we missing your favorite gardening quote?

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Best Fruits and Vegetables to Grow in Southern California

To help you decide what to grow, here are 15 of the best fruits and vegetables to grow in Southern California:

1. Tomatoes
2. Peppers
3. Strawberries
4. Carrots
5. Radishes
6. Corn
7. Citrus fruits
8. Avocados
9. Kale
10. Swiss chard
11. Beets
12. Parsnips
13. Spinach
14. Squashes, such as zucchini and pumpkins
15. Lettuces

When to Plant Vegetables in Southern California

Part of determining when to plant vegetables in Southern California depends on how you are going to plant them. If you will be starting your seeds indoors, you may get started weeks earlier than a gardener who is planting seeds in the ground outside. Plus, if one person plants seeds outside and one plants seedlings outside on the same day, the gardener who planted the seeds will be waiting longer for their harvest.

It is also important to note that there are significant climate differences in different parts of Southern California and even within the same county. For example, a garden in Oceanside will be managed very differently than a garden in Julian. The closer you are to the ocean, the more moderate the climate will be. This generally allows for a longer growing season and allows you to grow food throughout the year. In areas with frosts and freezes, particularly hard freezes, it is much more important to plant various vegetables at the appropriate time. Plus, you will have fewer options if planning on gardening outside in winter.

If you live in an area that has freezes or frosts, you will need to be aware of the last frost and first frost. Most of your planting will happen after the last frost and most of your harvesting will be completed before the first frost.

Because Southern California is home to many communities with diverse climates, please note that this is a general planting guide. If you live in inland areas, particularly in the mountains, desert, or high desert, your best planting times might vary some. You will find it helpful to know your hardiness zone or climate zone. You can find your USDA Hardiness Zone here, or you can find your Sunset Climate Zone here.

January

January is a good time to start seeds indoors for a mid- to late-spring harvest, particularly if you are planning on growing lettuces, tomatoes, celery, peppers, chard, spinach, eggplant, radishes, kale, or broccoli. You can also start beets, cauliflower, and cabbage indoors in January.

February

As long as you are past your last frost (or live in an area with no frost), you can start planting in the ground in February. You can either plant the seedlings you started indoors in January, plant seeds in the ground, or transplant vegetable plants you find at a local nursery or purchase online. If you have not had your last frost yet, you can start seeds inside for carrots, cucumbers, kale, lettuces, cantaloupe, pumpkins, zucchini, and onions.

If you are planting or transplanting outside in your garden, now is a good time to plant carrots, radishes, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, lettuces, kale, and chard.

March

If you are hoping for Halloween pumpkins, make sure you plant your seeds in March. This is also when most folks can plant seedlings or transplants in their garden. If you want to start seeds indoors still, you could do cucumber, brussel sprouts, or squashes and you should still be fine. If you are planting outdoors, this month is a good month to plant tomatoes, celery, spinach, lettuces, peppers, cauliflower, carrots, beets, cucumbers, corn, and watermelons.

April

April is really your last chance to get Halloween pumpkins started, so if you didn’t start them in March, be sure to start them in early April. Other fruits and vegetables you can plant in April include squashes, watermelons, eggplants, cucumbers, cantaloupe, beans, carrots, and peppers. If possible, plant towards the beginning of the month.

May

As we move towards the end of spring and into the beginning of summer, you will begin harvesting some of the foods you planted earlier in the year. You can also start another round of planting or do your first planting for cantaloupe, corn, eggplant, cucumber, beans, beets, squashes, peppers, and chard.

June

It is starting to get a bit late in the season and a bit too warm to plant most food plants in your garden. By now, you should be harvesting some of your earlier plantings. You can still get away with successfully planting some vegetables in your garden this month, including beans, zucchini, peppers, and corn, but it is getting late in the year.

July

There are some beans and squashes you can plant in July. Pepper and tomato plants transplanted at this time will likely do just fine as well. Other than that, July is a time to keep an eye on soil moisture and continue to enjoy the fruits of your previous labor.

August

August is the month where you can start planting your second round of food plants for a late-fall or winter harvest. Try to wait until the end of the month, since this is not an ideal time for planting. You can transplant tomatoes or peppers any time in the month. You can also start cucumbers, celery, beans, and zucchini.

September

September is a good month to start another round of carrots. This is also a good time to plant celery or to start seeds indoors for beets, beans, cauliflower, or cucumbers that you can transplant to your garden once the weather cools off a bit.

October

The weather is starting to cool off now and it is time to really get your fall and winter garden going. This month, you can plant beans, broccoli, beets, cabbage, celery, kale, onions, collards, garlic, carrots, spinach, parsnips, chard, lettuces, peas, tomatoes, and peppers. If you are planning on adding any fruit trees to your garden, now is a good time.

November

If you are not expecting a frost or freeze in your area, November is a good time to plant garlic, beans, peas, cabbage, broccoli, kale, parsnips, chard, radishes, lettuces, carrots, turnips, spinach, collards, and beets. This is also a good time to plant fruit trees.

December

In areas with moderate climates, December Southern California garden planting can include lettuces, kale, radishes, broccoli, cabbage, spinach, turnips, beets, leeks, parsnips, and chard. 

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So, if you have spots under shade trees, near fences or adjacent to structures that are in part or full shade, you might need a little help finding attractive shade plants that will thrive in these conditions.

To that end, here are 20 of the best plants for shade to help you make your garden a success this year.

1. Hostas

Hostas are first on the list because they are pretty much the go-to plants for shade. Hostas are available in many varieties and are attractive perennials with big, showy leaves that vary widely in color and texture. They are easy to grow, do well in shade and add great color to your garden.

They are toxic to cats, dogs and horses when ingested, so if you share your yard with pets that like to nibble on plants, hostas might not be the right choice for you. If this is not an issue, these are the first shade plants to turn to when designing landscaping for areas with lots of shade.

Zones: 3-9

Height: 2 inches to 4 feet tall

2. Begonias

Most begonias prefer morning sun and afternoon shade, so if that is the situation in the spot you are trying to fill, begonias are a perfect choice. If your flowerbed is shaded most of the day, opt for tuberous begonias, which do better with more shade.

Begonias do not do well in colder weather, so if you live in an area that regularly sees the temperature drop below 50 degrees, you will need to bring them inside or put them in a greenhouse for the winter.

While begonias prefer moist soil and, therefore, are not a great choice for drought-tolerant landscaping, they do add some fantastic color with their deep green or patterned leaves and bright flowers.

Zones: 9, 10

Height: 8 inches to 2 feet

3. Lily of the Valley

If children and pets do not frequent your garden, Lily of the Valley is an attractive shade plant you might consider. While it is okay if a child or dog touches a Lily of the Valley while playing, all parts of the plant are poisonous when ingested. If this is not an issue, these attractive shade plants feature tiny, white flowers and can fill a flowerbed quickly.

Lily of the Valley is a perennial plant that spreads through seeds and underground rhizomes, so it can spread quickly and can be divided to feature in containers or other areas of your yard. You might also consider growing these shade plants in containers to keep them from spreading.

Zones: 3-9

Height: 6 to 12 inches

4. Hydrangeas

Most hydrangeas need full sun in the morning followed by shade in the afternoon, but there are some varieties that will tolerate partial shade throughout the day. Since hydrangeas prefer moist soil, they are not the best choice for drought-conscious gardeners, but they do offer stunning bunches of blooms in shades of pink, white, purple, blue, and red.

Aside from regular watering, you can feed your hydrangeas once a year when the weather is cool, but keep in mind that overfertilizing could result in fewer blooms, since the plant will focus on growing leaves.

Zones: 3-9

Height: 2 to 3 feet; sometimes up to 6 feet tall

5. Geraniums

Not all geraniums love the shade, but there are many varieties that will thrive in full or partial shade in your garden. This easy-to-grow bloomer can be grown as a perennial in most parts of Southern California. If you live in an area where the temperature drops below their comfort zone, you can always bring them inside for the winter or grow them as annuals.

Usually found in shades of pink, purple, blue, or white and available in sizes ranging from less than one foot in height to more than seven feet, geraniums definitely come in a variety that will fill that shady spot in your yard.

Zones: 10, 11

Height: 4 inches to 4 feet

6. Ferns

When ferns are growing in the wild, it is often in woodland areas beneath the canopy of trees or interspersed in crevices on rocky slopes. So, it should come as no surprise that many varieties of ferns can be perfect additions to shade gardens.

Ferns are a particularly good choice if you are looking for lush, feathery foliage to cover a large space and are not concerned about colorful flowers. While many ferns are not low-water options, purchasing from a local nursery can help you find varieties that grow well in Southern California without wasting water. Regardless of the fern variety you choose, you will need to water it regularly until it is established. Once established, these shade plants should thrive in your garden with weekly irrigation and yearly feeding.

As an added bonus, ferns can be planted on shady hillsides to control erosion.

Zones: 4-8

Height: 1 to 6 feet

7. Heuchera

Heuchera, aka alumroot or coral bells, tolerates partial shade and encourages bees and birds to visit your garden. The many varieties available offer a wide range of hues complimented by the bell-shape blooms that appear in late spring and summer.

You will need to divide these evergreen perennials every few years to keep them thriving. Simply dig up the plant, divide the root system to make a few separate plants, and then plant each of the divided plants for long-lasting color and texture in your garden.

Zones: 4-9

Height: 6 to 16 inches

8. Sweet Alyssum

The tiny, delicate blooms of alyssum make a great ground cover around other shade plants or can be planted in a container garden as a filler or on its own to spill over the edges. Alyssum varieties generally come with white, pink or purple flowers, all of which do well in shade. If the spot you are filling is in deep shade, you might consider going with a purple variety, since these seem to have the most potential for thriving in shade.

Alyssum is a shorter plant and grows to only about four to eight inches high, so it is best at the front of a border or as a ground cover between other plants.

Zones: 5-9

Height: 3 to 9 inches

9. Coprosma (Mirror Plant)

Mirror plants add year-round color to your garden starting with shiny, deep-green leaves that eventually become mottled with orange or pinkish hues. Since this hardy shrub is drought tolerant, thrives in coastal areas and requires little care once established, mirror plants are a good choice for Southern California gardens and for busy homeowners. It does just fine in salty air, so it is particularly good for folks living near the beach.

While coprosmas prefer full sun, they will survive in partial shade. You will need to water your mirror plant regularly until established. Once established, it will need extra irrigation during hot or dry spells. Annual fertilizing and pruning will also help your coprosma thrive.

Zones: 9, 10

Height: 4 to 5 feet

10. Dead Nettle (Lamium)

If you need shade plants for a spot that gets little sun during the day, dead nettle might be the option for you. These easy-care, flowering plants are often used as a quick-growing ground cover and will grow in flowerbeds and borders or in containers. The most common colors for dead nettle blooms are white, pink and purple.

It is important to remember that all varieties of lamium are members of the mint family, so they can be invasive and can take over your yard if you let them. To avoid this, you can cut them back to encourage compact growth or you can divide these perennials every spring to plant them in other areas of your yard or to give away to other folks with shady spots to fill.

Zones: 4-10

Height: around 6 inches

11. Toad Lilies

Toad lilies are one of the most beautiful plants for shade gardens and add an exotic look that makes them a welcome addition in cutting gardens as well. Blooms come in white, pink, purple, yellow, and blue and this pretty perennial will do just as well in containers as they will in the ground.

Toad lilies are generally easy to care for; however, they do require regular watering and are usually not drought tolerant. It is also important to note that toad lilies are a member of the lily family and all parts of the plant are poisonous. This means that these shade plants are not a good choice for planting near play areas for small children or your pet’s favorite spot for an afternoon nap.

Zones: 4-9

Height: 1 to 3 feet

12. Vinca Major and Vinca Minor (Periwinkle, Creeping Myrtle)

Vinca major and vinca minor are perennial, evergreen ground covers that thrive in shade. While vinca minor is a bit more shade loving than vinca major, either of these options will do fine in your shade garden. Vinca major is a bit bigger than vinca minor, does not tolerate cold weather quite as well, and its vines can spread more aggressively. So, if you are looking for something that can quickly cover the ground in a shady spot and you do not mind some serious spreading out, vinca major might be your best bet. If you want the hardiest, most shade-loving option, go with vinca minor.

Vincas prefer moist soil, but they are drought tolerant. Historically, vinca major was used to treat high blood pressure, so it is probably not a good idea to allow children or pets to spend a lot of time around the vinca unattended. Consuming a small amount is likely harmless, but consuming too much could cause low blood pressure.

Zones: 7-9

Height: 6 to 10 inches

13. Impatiens

Impatiens do not like full sun and do best in partial or full shade. This, of course, makes them a perfect choice for anyone looking for plants for shade.

These annual flowers are great for adding quick color to flowerbeds or containers. They can be planted in between other plants for pops of color, or you can plant several impatiens close together for a large grouping of colorful blooms.

Unfortunately, these little beauties are not drought tolerant and may even require more than one watering a day during the summer if they are planted in containers. However, the good news is that they are not considered toxic to people or pets, so they are a good choice for shady spots where you cats, dogs or kids like to spend time.

Zones: 10, 11

Height: 10 to 16 inches

14. Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons are evergreen shrubs with showy blooms that come in hues of white, pink, purple, red and yellow. While they do require at least some sun, rhodies do well in part shade and are a beautiful addition to shade gardens. With their shallow root systems, regular irrigation is required, particularly when the weather is hot or dry. Most varieties grow to be between three and six feet tall, so this is a good choice for large spaces that need color.

Aside from regular watering, rhododendrons also require acidic soil. Many Southern California gardeners are working with clay soil, so you will need to amend it to shift the pH level to about 5.0 or 5.5 to keep these shade plants happy.

Zones: 4-8

Height: 5 to 6 feet

15. Azaleas

Azaleas are in the same genus as rhododendrons and have similar requirements regarding irrigation, care and soil acidity. Some azalea varieties are evergreen and some are deciduous, so be sure to choose a variety that fits your needs. Different varieties also vary greatly in when they bloom, which can be as early as spring or as late as fall, so do a little research or ask for recommendations at your local garden center to make sure you purchase plants that will bloom at the right time of year to compliment the other plants in your shade garden.

Zones: 6-9

Height: 4 to 6 feet; sometimes up to 20 feet

16. Camellias

Camellias do best in partial shade and come in both shrub and tree varieties. This large bloomer has beautiful, showing flowers in the fall and attractive foliage throughout the year. Camellias do not require excessive water once established, so this is a plus, but they are pretty picky about the few things they are picky about. For example, they cannot survive in neighborhoods that are close enough to the beach to experience salt spray. They also do not tolerate afternoon sun well and, when exposed, will not bloom as readily and can show signs of sunburn.

Zones: 7-10

Height: 6 to 12 feet

17. Lungwort (Pulmonaria)

Lungwort was named for its resemblance to the shape of a lung, which was, at one time believed to mean it would treat lung ailments. Although it proved to have no healing properties related to lung health, the name stuck. While the name might be a bit unfortunate, the spotted foliage and delicate flowers are a beautiful addition to shade gardens. These low-maintenance perennials prefer moist soil until established, and then can tolerate some drought, particularly when planted in the shade.

Lungwort prefers partial shade and will do best in a spot that has some morning sun, but then is shaded for most or all of the afternoon.

Zones: 3-8

Height: 6 to 12 inches

18. Astilbe

Astilbe is a colorful shade plant with showy plumes that attract butterflies to your garden. Flowers are generally shades of white, red, pink or purple, and you can choose varieties with foliage that ranges from light green to deep red for even more color throughout the year.

Astilbes are perennial, so you can pick a spot for planting, and then enjoy them year after year without needing to replant the area. As good plants for shade gardens, astilbes prefer shade in the afternoon and tolerate full shade – just know that you will not get as many floral plumes on astilbes that are in deep shade all day.

Zones: 3-8

Height: 1 to 4 feet

19. Japanese Forest Grass

Japanese forest grass is a good choice for folks in search of shade plants that will enhance their garden’s visual appeal without colorful flowers. This attractive, slow-growing grass grows in mounds that reach about 18 inches in height and, as is common with perennials, it can be divided every few years to provide you with new plants to fill in spots in your garden.

Japanese forest grass requires regular watering and must have shade to survive Southern California’s hot, dry summers.

Zones: 5-9

Height: 12 to 18 inches

20. Spurge

There are thousands of varieties of spurge, which means you can choose between annuals and perennials, green or burgundy foliage, and flowers and bracts that come in white, pink, yellow, orange, red and even green. Most of the plants in this class grow no more than three feet tall, but some varieties of this aggressive spreader can take over a garden border before you know it. This makes it a good choice as a ground cover or for erosion control.

Zones: 3-10

Height: 1 to 3 feet

Look for varieties that are drought tolerant to add color to shaded areas without increasing your water usage.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a full shade plant?

A full shade plant is a plant that can thrive in mostly shaded areas and typically only need a few short hours of direct sunlight per day.

Which plant grows the fastest in the shade?

Rhododendrons and Azaleas grow the quickest in the shade. Rhododendrons have hundreds of varieties to choose from and are relatively low-maintenance while Azalea’s require plenty of water.

Which flowers bloom in the shade?

• Geranium
• Spiderwort
• Campanula
• Impatiens
• Heuchera

This blog was originally posted on Oct 24, 2018 and was updated on June 24, 2022.

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Before we get into how to get rid of grubs in your lawn or garden, we should first take a look at what a grub is and why they are destroying your lawn in the first place.

Grubs – also called white grubs, grub worms, or lawn grubs – are the larvae of scarab beetles, such as Japanese beetles and June bugs. The basic cycle consists of beetles laying eggs in late summer and fall, those eggs hatching into larvae that burrow into the soil and survive on organic matter (like roots) through winter and spring, and then the larvae entering the pupal stage and maturing into beetles to leave the soil in late June. Then, after dining on foliage for the summer, the new beetles lay another round of eggs, and the process starts over again.

Why Are Grubs Bad?

A large grub population can decimate a vegetable garden, flower bed or natural grass lawn, but most serious grub issues that homeowners deal with have to do with their lawns. While a small population (fewer than five grubs per square foot of soil) is generally not an issue and will not destroy your grass, a population of 10 or more grubs per square foot can cause significant damage.

The damage caused by grubs is largely due to their diet, which consists primarily of grass roots, as well as other organic matter in the soil. As they eat the roots of your grass, they destroy the root system, which means your grass will not get the water and soil nutrients it needs to stay healthy. This will lead to patches of grass that are brown, dead and easy to pull out of the ground.

A significant grub population can also lead to lawn, flowerbed, and garden destruction indirectly as birds, raccoons, and other grub-eating critters tear up your lawn or garden to get to the grubs.

How Do I Know if I Have a Grub Problem?

Most homeowners discover they have grubs in their flowerbeds or vegetable garden when they are digging the soil for spring planting or fall garden cleanup. For folks who find grubs in their lawns, most discover the issue while investigating oddly shaped, brown patches of grass in one or more areas of their lawn.

These patches are most often found in spring or in late-summer and early-fall, which are the seasons when grubs are most active. During the winter, grubs burrow deeper into the ground, and then move back to the top few inches of soil in the spring to eat and become pupae to emerge as beetles in early summer.

Alternatively, homeowners may discover their grub problem after they notice that racoons or birds are tearing up their lawn and that what they are uncovering are not run-of-the-mill earthworms.

In some cases, you may notice sections of your lawn that feel spongy. This can be an early sign of a grub infestation that may appear before brown patches develop.

If you suspect that you may have a grub problem in your lawn, the easiest way to investigate is to try to pull up the brown patches of lawn. If they easily lift or peel away from the soil, this means that the root system has been damaged, and you likely have grubs.

Since this area of your lawn is already damaged, go ahead and remove some of the patchy grass so that you can dig down into the soil. In the winter, the grubs will be deeper in the ground, but in the spring, late summer or fall, they will be in the top few inches. Dig up about one square foot of turf in a few areas to see how many grubs you have per square foot.

If your lawn is otherwise healthy, it should be able to sustain a population of nine or fewer grubs per square foot. If your lawn is not in optimal health, it can only sustain a population of five or fewer grubs per square foot. This means that if you have a population of five or fewer grubs, you do not need to treat it, but if you have population between six and nine per square foot, you will need to consider the overall health of your lawn when determining whether you need to treat it.

If you have visible damage and a population of 10 or more grubs per square foot, you will need to treat your lawn to avoid additional damage.

While most lawns can survive with a small population (fewer than nine per square foot), you may want to treat it anyways if animals are digging you your yard trying to get to the grubs.

Bonus Tip: Keep an eye on your neighbors’ lawns. If you do not think you have a grub problem but it looks like they might, you may want to take preventive measures to avoid their grub problem moving onto your property.

How to Get Rid of Grubs Naturally

If you decide to treat your garden beds or lawn for grubs, it is best to introduce the treatment to the soil in mid- to late-summer or early fall. During this time, the grubs will be newly hatched and will be near the surface and beginning to feed. During the winter, they burrow deeper into the soil, and during the spring they are in the pupal stage, and then move into the imago stage, which means most treatments will be far less effective.

Many beetles return to the same area to lay eggs each year so, if you have a large population, it may take a few years to get it under control through treatment.

It is often best to try natural treatments before moving up to pesticides that may introduce toxins into the groundwater or affect the health of your family, your pets, bees, or other local wildlife. So, let’s look at some home remedies for grubs and natural ways to get rid of grubs.

1. Encourage birds to hang out in your yard.

Birds love to dine on grubs, so if you do not mind birds digging around in your flowerbeds or lawn, invite more of them to hang out in your yard. You can attract birds with bird feeders, bird baths and bird houses. To learn more about attracting birds to your yard, read Learn the Secrets of Attracting Birds to Your Backyard.

If you dig up grubs, you can also scatter them on top of the ground to encourage birds to eat them. Just know that any that are not snatched up by hungry birds will burrow back into the soil.

2. Feed your chickens.

If you have backyard chickens, you have a ready-made, natural grub treatment that can be quite effective. Turn your chickens loose in your yard, and they will be more than happy to dig up grubs and eat them all day. Keep in mind that the process of digging for grubs is great for soil that needs to be worked but can destroy a flowerbed if left unchecked.

You can also dig up the grubs yourself and toss them in your coop to give your chickens a treat.

3. Limit irrigation.

White grubs require moisture to thrive, so one easy way to shrink the population is to avoid providing them with that moisture. This is not always possible, since they can be found in vegetable gardens and flowerbeds where we want to maintain their visual appeal or in lawns that require more water during the critical summer-fall period where grub treatments are most effective. However, if you have a grass lawn that can go dormant in the summer and recover once water is re-introduced, you could take this opportunity to kill some grubs while also conserving water and lowering your summer water bills.

4. Relocate them.

Grub relocation can be tricky, but if you have a spot in your yard where you do not mind them eating the roots of weeds or other plants, you can dig up your grubs and relocate them away from your lawn.

5. Treat with milky spore.

Milky spore is a bacterial disease that primarily affects white grubs that will become Japanese beetles. Japanese beetles are among the most common culprits when grub populations are found in Southern California lawns and gardens; however, it is difficult to identify which type of grubs you have, and milky spore is only going to help if yours happen to be Japanese beetles.

Even if you are not sure which type of grubs have invaded your lawn, you may want to use milky spore as a preventive treatment that will help if any Japanese beetles show up. You usually need to apply this treatment a couple of times a year for two to three years, but once you go through this process, it can continue to act as a biological control for grubs for 10 to 15 years.

Milky spore is an eco-friendly, natural, non-toxic option, which makes it a great place to start. If you choose to use milky spore, simply follow the instructions on the package. You may also want to purchase an inexpensive Milky Spore Lawn & Garden Dispenser to make it even easier to apply this powder to your lawn or garden beds.

6. Introduce beneficial nematodes.

Nematodes are tiny, parasitic worms that can eradicate all sorts of garden pests, including grubs. They are often used in conjunction with milky spore and offer an organic, safe way to get rid of grubs that will not harm your family or pets.

Because nematodes are living creatures, it is important to purchase them from a reputable retailer and to ensure that you are purchasing containers that are marked with a future expiration date. They are microscopic, so you cannot rely on your ability to see if they are alive once they arrive.

You will want to apply them to your lawn or garden soon after their arrival (or soon after you get them home, if purchasing locally). You will also want to avoid allowing the worms to be in direct sunlight, since even a short time in direct sunlight can render them sterile. To distribute them in your yard, you simply follow the directions on the package to mix the worms with water, and then use a watering can or Nematode Hose End Sprayer to distribute them over your grass or in your garden beds.

You will likely need to introduce a new batch of nematodes into the soil once or twice each year for a few years to establish the population.

7. Apply neem oil.

If eco-friendly, organic gardening is your thing, you probably already have neem oil in your garden shed. This natural pest repellent works wonders on keeping all sorts of garden pests at bay. If you spray neem oil on your lawn at night during egg-laying season, it can keep beetles from laying eggs in your soil, which makes this a great preventive measure. Azadirachtin, which is made from neem seeds, is also used as a natural grub killer, which can be sprayed on your lawn to both repel beetles and kill grubs.

8. Repel the beetles.

There are several natural pest repellents – like the above-mentioned neem oil – that can be used as a preventive treatment. Treating your lawn or garden with one of these repellents assists in keeping beetles away from your yard so that they will not lay eggs that will soon hatch into larvae.

If you are interested in making a homemade grub killer or repellent, you may already have most of the ingredients in your pantry. For example, one popular homemade grub treatment mixes dish soap, lemon juice, and mouthwash with water in a spray bottle that you can then spray on your lawn to repel beetles. Other options include mixing garlic and water or chili peppers and water to create a pest repellent spray.

While this trick can help keep beetles from laying eggs in your soil, it requires you to know when to spray it for maximum effect. Since beetles typically lay their eggs during the summer but it can vary depending on location and weather, you may find yourself treating your lawn repeatedly in hopes of holding the beetles at bay.

9. Make a homemade grub killer with borax.

Before you consider making a homemade grub killer using borax, it is important to note that borax contains boron, and too much boron will kill your grass. If you use a borax grub killer repeatedly on your lawn or in flowerbeds or garden beds, the boron will accumulate in the soil and nothing will grow. So, this option should be used sparingly, if at all.

If you choose to use borax, the simplest recipe is to add one tablespoon of borax with warm water in a spray bottle. Then, use the spray bottle to distribute the borax-water solution on areas where you have found grubs. You will need to repeat this treatment until you have eradicated the grub population, so remember the part about boron accumulating in the soil over time before you choose this option.

Other recipes for borax grub killers include mixing onion, peppers or garlic in the warm water with the borax.

10. Dethatch your lawn.

Leaving a good layer of thatch can be beneficial to your lawn in other ways, but if you are having pest issues and want to get rid of grubs naturally, dethatching is an important part of the process. A thick layer of thatch provides a welcome environment for laying eggs and offers shelter to grubs, so removing it will make your lawn a less-welcoming environment for beetles and grubs.

A thick layer of thatch will also prevent treatments from effectively penetrating the soil, so it is best to dethatch your lawn prior to applying milky spore, nematodes, or other natural solutions, as well as harsher pesticides.

11. Aerate your lawn.

Grubs live in the top few inches of soil in late summer and fall and return to the top few inches of soil to enter the pupal stage in spring. This means that aerating your lawn during these times can injure or kill grubs living near the surface of the soil.

12. Replace your lawn with artificial grass.

Artificial grass is not a natural product, but it is worth adding to this list because it is an effective option that requires no toxic pesticides or repeated treatments. Replacing your natural grass lawn with synthetic turf is a sure way to keep a grub population from taking hold in your lawn and destroying it. Plus, you can enjoy a lush, green lawn throughout the year that looks, feels and functions like natural grass without grub problems or the mowing, watering, weeding, aerating, edging, fertilizing and other tasks that are required to maintain a healthy, natural lawn.

How to Get Rid of Grubs in Your Lawn or Garden: Additional Resources

If getting rid of grubs naturally is not working or you simply want to start with stronger pesticides, it is important to understand the potential effects on groundwater, bees, other wildlife, your pets and your family.

To better understand how the use of grub control products can affect bees and other pollinators, we recommend reading Grub Control in Lawns: Neonicotinoids and Bees published by the Center for Agriculture, Food and the Environment at University of Massachusetts at Amherst.

For best practices in effectively using pesticides that target grubs, we recommend reading How to Choose and When to Apply Grub Control Products to Your Lawn published by Michigan State University Extension. This article also includes a section on protecting bees and other pollinators when using potentially harmful pesticides.

The post How to Get Rid of Garden & Lawn Grubs Naturally (Guide) appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Of course, there are plenty of commercial herbicides that use toxic chemicals (some of which are organic compounds) for long-term weed eradication, but, while these products are generally rather effective, recent studies link one of the most popular, widely available weed killers to cancer. Others have been linked to kidney and liver damage, endocrine disruption, birth defects, and detrimental effects on wildlife and the environment.

If you have not already stopped using products labeled as potential or likely carcinogens, such as glyphosate and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (aka 2,4-D), it may be time to do a little more research on the possible health effects of these weed killers before spraying them around your family and pets. A quick online search for health effects of commercial herbicides will likely turn rather quickly into a search for how to kill weeds naturally.

The good news is that there are lots of natural and homemade weed killers that are both effective and non-toxic. So, if you are tired of pulling weeds, there are plenty of options you can try before turning to potentially dangerous chemicals.

When using natural weed control methods, it is important to remember that weeds are basically just plants that we find undesirable. Natural herbicides kill plants indiscriminately, which means they will kill desirable plants right along with unwanted weeds. Therefore, it is necessary to apply these products with care to kill the weeds you do not want without damaging the plants and flowers you love.

1. Use the hands-on approach: Pull weeds before they go to seed.

Most gardeners search for natural ways to kill weeds specifically because they do not want to pull them. However, this old-fashioned weed-removal method is a tried-and-true way to get a weed-free yard. You should not have to pull weeds on a regular basis, since you are going to use some of these other natural weed control options, but sometimes this is the best way to get rid of weeds fast. Most importantly, you need to get rid of weeds that are starting to go to seed. When weeds go to seed, they produce hundreds of seeds and expand their lifespan significantly.

Once your current weeds go to seed, those seeds are going to scatter throughout your yard and make weed removal much more difficult. So, whether you pull them or kill them by other means, be sure to get rid of your weeds before they go to seed.

What to do: Grabbing many weeds at once often results in you only pulling out half of the weed — which will allow it to continue to grow. Instead, pull each weed individually from the root. This will completely eradicate the weed.

2. Bring out the blow torch.

Weed torches are actually a thing, and you can even purchase them online. But, before you get too excited, it is important to note that these backyard blow torches should not actually be used to burn weeds, since any vegetation dry enough to burn is probably not safe to burn. Instead, use your propane weed torch to wilt your weeds into submission.

Obviously, you need to keep open flames far from desired plants, trees, your firewood storage area, anywhere with dry vegetation, your house, other structures, and anything flammable. Because of this, it is going to be best for most folks to try other natural weed control methods before turning to a blow torch.

What to do: Slowly apply the torch to the root of the weed so any moisture within the weed will evaporate. Without any moisture to sustain it, the weed will die.

3. Mow them down.

Mowing can be an effective method when determining how to kill weeds on a lawn. Mowing your weeds will remove their flowering bits, which is a temporary fix to keep your weeds from going to seed. This method is most effective for weeds growing in natural grass lawns and, again, it is only temporary. You will still need to employ other natural weed killers to eradicate the problem, but this quick fix will at least keep the weeds from going to seed and those seeds spreading to create an even bigger issue.

What to do: Set your lawn mower to around two inches and mow the area with weeds. Afterward, you can pull the remaining roots from the ground to completely eradicate them. 

4. Dowse them with boiling water.

As far as DIY weed killers go, boiling water is certainly one of the most straightforward methods. This natural weed killer is practically free, and you definitely already have it on hand. All you need is a stove, a pot, and some tap water. Or, better yet, if you happen to have a stovetop tea kettle or an electric kettle, this process will be even easier.

What to do:  Pour the boiling water directly on unwanted weeds. You may have to do this more than once if you have weeds with deep tap roots, but it will eventually kill them off. Be sure to avoid pouring boiling water on desired plants, since this is an indiscriminate killer.

5. Use a homemade vinegar weed killer.

Vinegar is one of the best-known natural weed killers and has been used for this purpose for just about as long as people have been trying to rid their yards of weeds.

When determining how to kill weeds with vinegar, it’s important to do some homework ahead of time. You will be best served by picking up vinegar with 20% acetic acid, which you can purchase online or at your local garden center. The stuff you buy at the grocery store has only 5% acetic acid and is great for cleaning and all sorts of household tasks, but it will not kill weeds as effectively as vinegar with 20% acetic acid.

What to do: Put the vinegar in a garden sprayer or spray bottle and spray it directly on the leaves of unwanted plants. This is another indiscriminate killer, so you will need to make sure you do not accidentally spray any on desired plants. When using vinegar to kill weeds, you will likely need to repeat the treatment two or three times to get the job done.

6. Stop germination with cornmeal.

If you enjoy spending time in the kitchen, you probably already have cornmeal on hand. This means that you can stop weed growth in your yard with a natural weed killer right from your pantry.

Cornmeal stops weed growth by inhibiting germination. Since cornmeal keeps all seeds from germinating, it is important that you use this weed control method only in areas where you are not going to try to grow desired plants from seeds. Cornmeal will not affect established plants, so you can use it on bare ground to keep weed seeds from germinating, or you can use it in flowerbeds or vegetable gardens that have established plants. Just avoid using the cornmeal method in areas where you plan on planting seeds.

What to do: Distribute the cornmeal evenly throughout the area where you want to kill weeds. Then, lightly sprinkle some water on the ground to activate the oils responsible for killing weeds. After 5-6 weeks, reapply the cornmeal until the weeds are dead.

7. Brush baking soda into cracks.

If your main issue is weeds growing through cracks in your walkways, patio, or driveway, you may have the solution in your kitchen right now. Baking soda is another effective solution for killing weeds in cracks.

What to do: Grab a box of baking soda and sprinkle it along cracks where weeds grow. Then, use a broom or deck brush to push it into the cracks. You will need to repeat this process after it rains or if you rinse down your hardscapes since that will dilute the baking soda.

8. Sprinkle the weeds and soil with salt.

Table salt is an effective, inexpensive, natural weed killer that will dehydrate unwanted plants and render the soil barren well into the future. That is the thing about salt: It is incredibly effective at killing weeds, but it will also kill any other plants in the area, and nothing will grow in that soil for at least several months. On a small scale, you can use a minimal amount of salt to kill weeds, and then irrigate the area regularly to dilute the salt so that you will, one day, be able to plant there again. 

However, it is safest to only use this method in areas where you have no future plans for growing anything at all. For example, driveway cracks or walkways made of gravel or wood chips are good candidates for salt-based weed control. While salt is non-toxic to humans and animals, you will need to take a few precautions with this one. 

First, you will need to be careful when applying it to hardscapes and be sure to get it only in the cracks, since salt can corrode concrete and concrete pavers. Secondly, it is imperative that you do not use salt in areas where runoff could carry it to flowerbeds, a natural grass lawn, or other areas where you want to keep the soil healthy.

What to do: Salt is most effective and less dangerous as a herbicide when mixed with water from the start. Create a 1:2 mixture of salt and water in a spray bottle and spray the weed leaves. This will accomplish your goal of killing the weeds while protecting the desirable plants around them. 

8. Bring on the borax.

A simple borax-water mixture is an inexpensive, homemade weed killer that takes seconds to mix and kills weeds quickly. You only need about five ounces of borax per gallon of water, so if you have a two-gallon sprayer, you would mix in about 10 ounces of borax. 

What to do: Mix the borax and water until dissolved. Then, spray the mixture on areas where weeds are growing to kill weeds quickly. If you are treating smaller areas with a spray bottle, you will only need about an ounce to one-and-a-half ounces of borax per quart of water. Be sure to wear gloves and other protective gear to keep the solution off your skin and out of your eyes. This is another one where you will need to be careful to only spray the weeds you want to kill while avoiding desirable plants or spraying too much borax onto the soil.

9. Using vodka in homemade weed killer.

If you happen to have some extra vodka in your liquor cabinet, you can mix one ounce of vodka with about two cups of water in a spray bottle. Add a couple of drops of natural dish soap to the mix, shake well, and you have a simple, inexpensive home remedy for weeds. Be sure to spray your vodka weed killer directly on the leaves of the weeds in the middle of the day. Since the vodka kills your weeds by making them more vulnerable to dehydration, sun is an essential part of the equation. 

What to do: On a sunny day, spray your weeds around noon or in the early afternoon with your vodka concoction, and watch them wither away.

10. Mix vinegar weed killer with dish soap and salt.

If you do not have any extra vodka lying around, or you simply do not want to part with it, you can also whip up a vinegar weed killer using vinegar, dish soap, and salt. 

What to do: You have two options here: You can fill your spray bottle with vinegar and add a few drops of natural dish soap and a pinch of salt, or you can fill your spray bottle with vinegar, add the dish soap and skip the salt. Which one you choose really just depends on your future plans for the area of your yard that is currently covered in weeds. Either of these homemade herbicides will kill the weeds, but if you choose the salt option, it will also most likely make the soil unable to grow desirable plants in that area for at least a few months.

11. Buy an organic herbicide.

If you are not up for making your own homemade weed killer or think that commercial solutions may be stronger or better, you can always purchase an organic herbicide at your local garden center or home improvement store. These natural herbicides often contain acetic acid, citric acid, or oils, such as clove oil, orange oil, or cinnamon oil. 

Much like homemade weed control options, store-bought organic and natural herbicides are non-selective, so they will kill both desirable and undesirable plants. This means that you need to be careful where you are spraying if you choose this option.

What to do: Spray the herbicide generously on weeds while avoiding any plants in your garden.

12. Crowd them out.

Ground covers and close plantings compete with weeds for water, light, and nutrients. If weeds are growing in an area where you do not plan on planting anything else, you can even plant a thug, which is a plant that will happily steal all of the light, nutrients, and water from any plants around them – desirable or not – and take over the entire area. Thugs easily crowd out other plants and will readily overpower any weeds that dare grow near them.

What to do: Plant your thugs or ground covers around the weeds but away from any desirable plants. Then, the thugs will quickly crowd out the weeds. 

13. Rent goats for weed control.

Goats are not the ideal solution for every weed situation, but they are a great choice for hillsides, rocky areas, places that are difficult for humans to reach, and large areas that do not have desirable plants. Goats will eat just about anything in their path, so this is not an option for clearing the weeds in your vegetable garden or around your prized petunias, but they are a viable option for spots where you need some serious weed abatement. 

What to do: You do not need to purchase goats to handle your weed situation; you may have a neighbor who will let you borrow some, or you can rent them from companies or goat farmers who provide goats to clients specifically for this purpose. Once you have the goats, they will happily eat away your weeds. 

14. Install landscaping fabric around plants and under hardscapes.

If you are planning to install an artificial grass lawn, paving stone patio, gravel walkway, or brick driveway, it is always a good idea to include weed-blocking landscaping fabric in the installation process. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and adding this one step to hardscape installations can significantly reduce the amount of time you spend pulling weeds later on.

You can also prevent weeds in established flowerbeds and borders by installing landscaping fabric around plants under wood chips or gravel.

15. Protect your soil and block the sunlight with mulch.

Applying a thick layer of mulch around your desirable plants or on larger patches of bare dirt provides two-part weed control that does not require chemical-laden herbicides or hours of pulling weeds. First, the mulch provides a barrier that will help keep weed seeds from reaching the soil to germinate. Secondly, it will block sunlight from those seeds that do reach the soil. It is important that you know the difference between mulch and compost if you choose this method of natural weed control, since compost will provide your weed seeds with even more nutrients and encourage their growth.

16. Crowd them out.

Use ground covers and close plantings to compete with weeds for water, light and nutrients to crowd out undesirable plants. If it is an area where you do not plan on planting anything else, you can even plant a thug, which is a plant that will happily steal all of the light, nutrients and water from any plants around them – desirable or not – and take over the entire area. Thugs easily crowd out other plants and will readily overpower any weeds that dare grow near them.

17. Rent goats for weed control.

Goats are not the ideal solution for every weed situation, but they are a great choice for hillsides, rocky areas, places that are difficult for humans to reach, and large areas that do not have desirable plants. Goats will eat just about anything in their path, so this is not an option for clearing the weeds in your vegetable garden or around your prized petunias, but they are a viable option for spots where you need some serious weed abatement. You do not need to purchase goats to handle your weed situation; you may have a neighbor who will let you borrow some, or you can rent them from companies or goat farmers who provide goats to clients specifically for this purpose.

Weed Prevention Tips

The best way to deal with weeds is by not having to deal with them at all. Here are a few different ways you can prevent weeds from invading your garden in the first place. 

14. Recycle old newspapers in your garden.

One way to kill weeds naturally is to deprive them of the sunlight they need to grow. If you suspect that there are weed seeds in your flowerbeds or vegetable garden, you can stop them in their tracks by cutting off their exposure to sunlight. 

What to do: Moisten the ground and apply several pages of the daily news to block the sunlight from reaching the soil. This will inhibit their growth and provide weed control until the paper biodegrades and adds carbon matter to your soil.  Of course, this is not the most attractive option, but you can cover the newspaper with mulch to hide the paper and add additional nutrients to your soil as it breaks down.

15. Install landscaping fabric.

If you are planning to install an artificial grass lawn, paving stone patio, gravel walkway, or brick driveway, it is always a good idea to include weed-blocking landscaping fabric in the installation process. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and adding this one step to hardscape installations can significantly reduce the amount of time you spend pulling weeds later on.

What to do: Install your landscape fabric in your garden area to prevent any weed growth. You can also prevent weeds in established flowerbeds and borders by installing landscaping fabric around plants and under wood chips or gravel.

16. Seal cracks in pavement.

If you are mostly concerned about weeds growing up through seams or cracks in concrete driveways, walkways, patios, or sidewalks, you may be able to eradicate your weed problem by simply filling in those cracks. 

What to do: Apply the crack filler into the seams and cracks with a caulking gun or squeezable bottle. This will smother tiny weeds that are just beginning to grow and help prevent future weeds from making their way up through the cracks. If you have existing weeds, you will need to kill and remove them before applying the cement crack filler.

17. Block the sunlight with mulch.

Applying a thick layer of mulch around your desirable plants or on larger patches of bare dirt provides two-part weed control that does not require chemical-laden herbicides or hours of pulling weeds. 

First, the mulch provides a barrier that will help keep weed seeds from reaching the soil to germinate. Secondly, it will block sunlight from those seeds that do reach the soil. It is important that you know the difference between mulch and compost if you choose this method of natural weed control, since compost will provide your weed seeds with even more nutrients and encourage their growth.

What to do: Add a barrier of mulch around the desired plants in your garden to block out weeds from sunlight. 

Benefits of Homemade Weed Killer

Natural herbicides are generally preferred since they’re less harmful to the environment. Beyond that, there are some other considerations that make homemade weed killers a better option than chemicals. Here are three great reasons to opt for a natural herbicide. 

Environmentally Friendly 

Since pesticides are meant to be toxic to the organism they’re designed to kill, they can damage the entire ecosystem around the weed as well. While not all pesticides are equally harmful, homemade alternatives are a safer option for protecting the environment. 

While glyphosate, the major chemical in Roundup, is known to be a relatively harmless chemical in comparison to others, opting for a natural herbicide can quell concerns about applying toxic chemicals to the soil. 

Harmless to Animals  

Chemical weed killers harm animals that consume them. Whether it’s a pet, insect, or other garden creature, these toxic chemicals can be very dangerous, and sometimes deadly, for animals to consume.  

When it comes to protecting pets and other animals, vinegar, salt, and boiling water are all safer alternatives to glyphosate. Therefore, if your dog typically takes strolls through your lawn, garden, or driveway, you won’t have to worry about it licking up harmful chemicals. 

Readily Available 

The best thing about homemade weed killers is that they’re readily available in your kitchen. Salt, cornstarch, vinegar, and boiling water are all effective practices for killing weeds — and you don’t even have to leave your home to get them. 

Since natural herbicides are cheap and readily available, there’s no reason to opt for chemicals. Using the elements at your fingertips is a foolproof way to kill nagging weeds and protect the environment and wildlife.

Frequently Asked Questions 

Still have questions about getting pesky weeds out of your garden? We’ve got you covered. Here are some common questions and answers about killing and preventing weeds. 

Is it better to pull or spray weeds? 

For larger infestations, spraying weeds will be more effective than pulling each individually. When pulling weeds, you’ll want to pull them one by one to ensure you pull the root. So if you’re dealing with a smaller patch of weeds, pulling is a better bet — as sprayed weeds will have to be pulled out of the ground later on anyways. 

Should you spray for weeds before or after mowing?

Weed killers are most effective when weeds have lots of leaves, so it’s best not to mow during the five or so days before you spray the area. Weeds absorb pesticides through their leaves before they target the root. 

Additionally, it’s best to wait around 2 days after spraying before you mow. This gives the leaves time to absorb the pesticide. 

What will kill a large area of weeds?

There are a few solutions for killing large areas of weeds. Spraying the area with pesticides should get the job done as long as you avoid desirable plants. Other effective solutions include using a blow torch, spreading newspapers over the area, and spreading a natural preventative like cornmeal over the infested area. 

Does bleach kill weeds?

Bleach does kill weeds; however, it can be very damaging to the soil if overused. Bleach can do lasting damage to the quality of your soil and can harm pets and garden critters. As a result, it’s best to opt for another solution. 

Protect Your Garden From Weeds 

Now that you know how to kill and prevent weeds, you can move forward to creating the garden and outside areas you’ve always wanted. 

For driveways especially, a foolproof way of preventing weeds is using a professional paving service to fill unruly cracks in pavements that oftentimes become home to weeds. Check out our paving services to learn more about our process and prices.

The post How to Kill and Prevent Weeds: 17 Natural Solutions appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

While you can forage for the fruits and pads or purchase them at grocery stores, you may be interested in growing your own opuntia cactus to harvest the fruits or leaves to eat at home or share with friends.

Prickly pears are easy to grow and will grow well in most areas of Southern California. They require little water, are drought tolerant and are an attractive addition to low-water, low-maintenance landscaping.

One important note before we talk about how to grow prickly pear cactus: Because they have harmful spines and glochids, prickly pear cactus should not be grown in areas where children or animals spend time.

How to Grow Prickly Pear Cactus

The first step in how to grow prickly pear cactus is to determine where you want to grow your cactus. Prickly pears can be grown in containers or in the ground. If you are growing in a container, choose a succulent and cactus mix for your soil and make sure the container has drainage holes. For better drainage, you can start with a layer of gravel at the bottom of the container. When growing prickly pears in containers, you will need to transplant them into larger pots whenever the cactus gets rootbound.

Opuntia cactus will tolerate less-than-ideal soil, but they do prefer well-draining, sandy or loamy soils and may not do as well in some areas of coastal Southern California where there is heavy, clay soil unless you amend it to improve drainage. If you are working with heavy, clay soil that is slow draining and retains moisture, consider mixing in some peat moss or sand to improve soil structure.

Once you have decided whether you are growing your cactus in the ground or in a container, you will need to decide how you want to start your cactus. You have three options for this: starting from seed, propagating from a cutting, or purchasing a young plant at your local nursery.

Purchasing a young plant at a nursery is, of course, the easiest way to get started and simply requires transplanting your cactus to a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Established plants can handle full sun all day and require minimal water. It is best to transplant prickly pears in spring, but if you are in a dry, arid area of Southern California, you really should be fine to transplant your cactus any time of the year.

Growing Prickly Pear Cactus for Cuttings

If you want to start your own cactus, the easiest way to do this is through propagation using a cutting. You will first need to acquire your cutting, which you can do through foraging or asking someone who has an established plant. Choose a healthy pad and use gloves and a sharp knife to hold the pad and remove it from the plant by cutting above where it attaches to the plant. Be careful not to cut into the plant below where the pad is attached, since this can damage the plant.

Once you have cut the number of pads you wish to propagate, lay them out in a dry, shady area away from children and pets. Leave them out for about a week to allow the cut to dry and form a callus. Then place the callused end of the pad one to two inches deep in a container and tamp the soil to help the pad stand upright. If you are having issues with it leaning or falling over, you can use small rocks to help support it.

It is best to allow your cactus to grow in the container for about a year before transplanting it into your garden. This will allow you to better control the growing conditions and allow the plant to take root and start producing new growth. You may want to keep the planted pad out of mid-afternoon sun until it begins to establish, but you can move it outside as soon as it is planted most times of the year. If you live in an area with particularly cold winters, you may want to keep your opuntia indoors until spring.

Your cactus will require a bit more water early on, so watch for the soil drying out, and then give it about an inch of water. You may need to do this once or twice per week at first. You will know your cactus is established once you start to see new growth. At this time, you can reduce irrigation to about one-quarter inch of water per week during hotter months and one-quarter inch of water every other week in colder months.

Once your plant is established, it will be able to handle full sun all day, so you can move it to its permanent location.

Growing Prickly Pear Cactus from Seeds

Growing prickly pear cactus from seeds is possible, but it takes longer and requires a bit more work. It is much easier and more convenient to grow your cactus from a cutting, but if cuttings are not available or you prefer to grow from seeds, here are some tips to get you started.

First, you will need to acquire prickly pear cactus seeds. You can purchase seeds online or at some nurseries, or you can harvest them from a prickly pear fruit. If you harvest them from fruit, you will need to completely clean off any pieces of the fruit and allow them to dry before planting them.

Fill small pots or a seed tray with succulent and cactus mix, place one seed in each pot or each section of the seed tray, and push them just slightly into the soil. Since opuntia seeds require light to germinate, you do not want to push them too far into the soil. Place your pots under grow lights or on a sunny windowsill to allow for germination.

Keep the soil moist but not wet as you wait for them to germinate. Once you have seedlings, watch the color to see if they need more or less light. If they look yellowish, move them to a sunnier spot. If they look red or brown, they need a spot with less light. If they are green, then they are happy where they are.

If you start your seeds in pots, you can allow them to grow in that pot until they outgrow it. If you start them in seed trays, make sure they are developed and healthy before transplanting them to pots to continue growing.

General Tips for Growing Opuntia Cactus

Your prickly pear cactus will not need pruning except to remove damaged pads. These cacti also do not require fertilizer, but you can encourage health and growth of young plants with a 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer applied monthly. If you want to encourage the production of more flowers and fruits, use a 5-10-10 or a 0-10-10 fertilizer.

How to Harvest and Eat Prickly Pear Cactus

The pads, flowers, fruit and stems of the prickly pear cactus are edible. The sweet fruits, which are generally called prickly pears or tunas, are eaten raw or used in making candies, jellies and jams. You can also make or buy prickly pear juice that can be enjoyed alone or used as a mixer for cocktails or mocktails. The pads (aka leaves) are eaten raw or cooked in a variety of dishes, including salads, soups, tacos, jams, or egg dishes.

Both the pads and fruits are used in traditional medicine to treat an array of illnesses, including diabetes and high cholesterol. You will most often see it called nopal or nopales when purchasing powders, teas or other natural remedies made from the opuntia cactus for these purposes.

According to the Mayo Clinic, prickly pear cactus is high in fiber, carotenoids and antioxidants, and “Some preliminary evidence shows that prickly pear cactus can decrease blood sugar levels in people with type 2 diabetes. Some research also suggests that prickly pear cactus extract may lessen the unpleasant effects of a hangover, possibly due to its anti-inflammatory effects.” (MayoClinic.org)

Harvesting prickly pear pads and fruits can be dangerous, so it is imperative that you take appropriate precautions to protect yourself during this task.

Before you can use the fruits or pads, you must first remove them from the plant. The mature pads will have sharp spines and a more fibrous texture, so it is best to choose young pads that are bright green and about the size of your hand. Wear thick gloves to protect your hands and arms from the spines while you hold the pad with one hand or sturdy tongs. Use your other hand to cut the pad, or nopal, from the plant.

Once you have harvested the pads, use a vegetable peeler to carefully remove the spines and the outer edge of the pads. Wash the pads, and then store them in the refrigerator to use within a few days, or use them immediately raw or cooked. The easiest ways to cook with nopales are to either grill the pad whole, and then cut it into strips to serve as a side dish, or to chop the nopales into strips or cubes and sauté them to add to egg dishes, side dishes or salsa.

To harvest prickly pear fruits, also known as tunas, you will need thick gloves or tongs to remove them from the cactus. While the fruits do not have spines, they do have glochids, which are nearly invisible, hair-thin splinters that are easy to get in your skin and difficult to get out. Therefore, while wearing your thick gloves for protection, twist each tuna off of the cactus to harvest them. Greener fruits are younger and will not be as sweet as riper fruits, which will be shades of oranges, red or purple.

Once you have gathered your opuntia fruits, you will need to remove the glochids before you can consume the fruits. You can achieve this by burning them off or peeling them off. To burn them off, stick a fork in the end of the fruit to provide a handle for holding it over an open flame. Use the flame from your stove, barbecue grill or a culinary torch to burn off the glochids.

Alternatively, you can peel the skin off by using two forks to avoid touching the fruit with your hands. To begin, stick the fruit with one of the forks. Cut off both ends of the fruit, and then slice the skin lengthwise from end to end. Hold the fruit with one fork while using a second fork to peel the skin off of the fruit. If you do not burn off the glochids before peeling the fruit, remember that these can easily fall off onto your cutting board or counter top, so be sure to properly clean all surfaces and tools.

Once you have peeled the fruit, you can eat it as is or use the fruit in jelly, candy or juicing recipes. While it is okay to swallow some seeds, they are too hard to chew, and you do not want to consume them in large amounts.

The post How to Plant and Grow Prickly Pear Cactus appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

San Diego homeowners are fortunate to live in an area where they can successfully grow a wide variety of fruits and vegetables.

Planting fruit trees in your yard is a great way to beautify your outdoor living spaces and allows you to grow some of your own produce.

By growing some of your own fruit, you can save money, include healthy foods in your family’s meals and enjoy the convenience of having fresh fruits readily available right in your backyard.

If you have children, it is also a great way to teach them how to care for living things, show them where food comes from, encourage them to spend more time outdoors and increase their interest in healthy hobbies, like gardening.

Fruit trees are a great way to grow a natural border around your yard or to create separate spaces to be used for various purposes.

If you have a vegetable garden, or would like to plant one, fruit trees are a great addition that will add different colors and textures to your garden space.

They can also provide needed shade for your yard or patio, and can be used to reduce the cost of cooling your home by strategically placing them to provide shade.

Choosing options like evergreen citrus trees that blossom in the spring and provide colorful fruits is also a great way to add color to areas of your yard that are home to expansive paving stone patios, rock gardens or other landscaping features in more neutral tones.

Mostly, having fresh fruit right outside your door is a fantastic way to increase healthy eating habits and always have produce on hand for fruit salads, baking pies, adding to gift baskets, drying for healthy snacks or canning for later use.

When you grow fruit at home with no chemical pesticides, fertilizers or waxes, you have a ready supply of organic fruit without the high price of the organic produce offered at your local grocery store.

While fruit trees do require watering, pruning and a bit of ongoing care, most varieties are easy to grow and do not require a green thumb, making them a great option for both beginning and experienced gardeners.

Which Are the Best Fruit Trees to Plant in San Diego?

It is important to choose fruit trees that will thrive in your area, which will help you avoid wasting money and having to provide special care to help your trees survive.

Fortunately, San Diego’s warm weather and sunshine make this a prime location for growing most common fruit trees.

Many fruit-bearing trees grow well in the alkaline sedimentary soil in this area, which means few or no soil amendments should be required, if you primarily stick with the subtropical trees that are known to thrive in this region.

Most of the San Diego area falls under U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) hardiness zone 10b, but some of the more inland areas of the county are USDA hardiness zone 10a.

There is only about a five degree temperature difference in these zones, which means that the majority of plants and trees that will do well in the 10a areas will also do well in the 10b areas.

Here are 15 fruit tree varieties that grow well in the San Diego area:

1. Oranges
2. Lemons
3. Limes
4. Most varieties of peaches
5. Most varieties of nectarines
6. Pomegranates
7. Avocados
8. Pluots
9. Some varieties of pears
10. Some varieties of apricots
11. Figs
12. Grapefruits
13. Guavas
14. Tangerines
15. Persimmons

While many home gardeners have success with certain types of apples, Asian pears, cherries and bananas, these are not ideally suited to the San Diego climate.

If you would like to grow fruits that generally need colder temperatures in winter to allow them to go dormant to properly produce their blossoms and fruit – like apples and cherries – talk to an expert at your local nursery to find the varieties that have the best chance of thriving in this area.

Your local garden center or nursery is also a great place to get more general information about trees that grow well in your area or to purchase fruit trees to plant in your yard.

The California Garden Web designed by the UC Master Gardener Program of the University of California has a wealth of information about backyard gardening, including information on growing your own fruit.

The UC Master Gardener Program also offers community clinics that you might find helpful.

Since most common options can thrive here, you can select the types of fruits you and your family enjoy the most, or the fruits you are most interested in including in your meal planning or annual canning.

How Many Fruit Trees Can I Plant in My Yard?

How many trees you can fit in your yard without overcrowding your other landscaping will depend on the size and layout of your property.

Even if you have a small backyard, you may be able to plant several fruit trees, depending on the types you choose.

The first consideration is whether you want dwarf trees, semi-dwarf trees or full-size trees.

For example, dwarf citrus trees grow slowly, but only reach about four to seven feet in height, which can make them a good choice for smaller yards.

Semi-dwarf citrus trees grow to between seven and 12 feet, making them another good choice for smaller yards.

Either of these can often also be grown in large containers, which makes them a great choice for homeowners who want to grow citrus in a patio container garden or who may want to take their trees with them if they move at some point in the future.

Full-size trees can reach heights of 20 feet, which makes them the perfect choice for people who want to add shade to their backyards, and have an abundance of fruit to enjoy and give away.

To avoid a crowded look and to give your trees the best opportunity to thrive, you need to make sure you allow plenty of space between each tree and between the trees and structures, such as your house, patio or garden walls.

Different varieties require different amounts of space to thrive, so you will need to consult with the retailer where you purchase your trees to determine how much space each one needs.

To give you an idea of the space requirements as you plan your mini backyard orchard, most standard-size fruit trees need about 18 to 20 feet of space, semi-dwarf trees usually need between 12 and 15 feet of space, and dwarf trees generally require only about 10 feet of space.

Keep in mind that some dwarf and semi-dwarf trees can be grown successfully in containers, so there are options that require less space.

Also keep in mind that most common fruit trees need at least six hours of sun each day, which will influence your decision-making process about which areas of your yard are the best spots for planting trees.

When Is the Best Time to Plant Fruit Trees in San Diego?

Because San Diego has a mild, warm climate throughout the year, you can plant most fruit trees just about any time of the year.

Citrus trees generally do best in this area when planted in May or June, but it is possible to plant them earlier or later in the year as well.

Your local garden center will be the best resource for determining the best time to plant the particular fruit trees you choose for your yard.

Planting Fruit Trees in San Diego: Other Considerations

Growing citrus fruits, avocados and other fresh produce in your backyard is a great hobby that provides healthy food for your family and can help you save money at the grocery store.

When you decide to grow fruit in this area, the great produce-growing weather makes most common options perfect choices for your backyard orchard.

In order to have a successful, satisfying experience with growing your own fruit, here are a few more things you should consider:

1. When designing your mini orchard layout, keep in mind the growth needs of your trees as they grow both up and out.

2. Transplanting fruit trees is possible, but it is not always a great idea, so be sure to pick a permanent spot for your trees before planting them.

3. San Diego’s hot, dry climate means regular watering is a must.

Consider an automatic watering system that will allow you to care for your trees while you are away, save water and scratch watering your trees off your weekly to-do list.

4. Some fruit trees, like plums and apples, require cross-pollination to flourish.

Make sure you check out your particular trees’ pollination needs before making a purchase and planting your backyard orchard.

5. Pruning your trees and harvesting your fruit can be easily accomplished, but for the most bountiful harvest, you will want to look into the best way to prune and take fruit from the particular trees you choose.

6. While your fruit trees want to be planted in sunny spots, their trunks may require protection from the sun for the first few years until their canopies can provide adequate shade.

7. When properly placed, large fruit trees can provide shade for your home and reduce your cooling costs.

8. Soil conditions in San Diego are good for growing most types of fruits, so you probably will not need to amend your soil.

However, adding mulch or compost to the holes before planting your trees can aid in proper drainage and provide more nutrients in the soil.

If you do not currently have a home compost pile, you may want to consider starting one.

Orange peels and fallen fruit make great additions for homemade compost, which can be used around your fruit trees, to improve the soil in your vegetable garden or to enhance the soil around your other landscaping features.

9. Unless you plan to plant a somewhat sizable orchard, planting fruit trees in your yard will not necessarily increase the value of your home, but it will increase your home’s curb appeal.

This is an important consideration if you are planning to sell your home in the future, since fruit trees are a feature that buyers generally find appealing, and it is always good to set your home apart from other homes on the market by adding attractive landscaping features.

10. If you live an area where wildlife often visits homes, your young trees may need protection from deer and other critters.

11. When preparing to transplant newly purchased trees, remove any fruit that is present to improve production of foliage.

12. Some fruit trees can thrive in containers, but keep in mind that they will be smaller and will require watering and fertilization more frequently than trees planted in the ground.

13. A bit of pruning will keep your trees looking their best, and keep them from encroaching on other landscaping features or hanging over fences, but too much pruning can significantly impact the tree’s ability to produce fruit.

14. Smaller fruit trees can be planted as a border along a driveway or patio to increase visual appeal.

15. Keep in mind that you, your family and your friends will be consuming the fruit you grow, so you may want to stick to natural methods of pest control.

16. If you live in an area of San Diego County that experiences below-freezing temperatures in winter, you may need to provide frost protection for your fruit trees.

17. To keep your fruit trees producing well, thin the fruit of very productive trees while the fruit is still young.

This will help to ensure that the remaining fruit will grow into plump, juicy, flavorful fruits.

Your Turn…

San Diego is a great place to grow fruit, making this an ideal environment for homeowners who want to spruce up their yards with beautiful trees and begin to grow some of their own produce.

Do you have fruit trees in your yard?

Tell us your favorite fruit-growing tips in the comments below!

Photo credits (in order of appearance): stock.xchng, analab01; stock.xchng, coralsea; stock.xchng, el800cao; stock.xchng, hirekatsu; stock.xchng, DoortenJ.

The post Which Fruit Trees Should I Plant in San Diego? appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Plus, there are some questions that you might not want to ask even if you know someone who may know the answers. This is particularly true of questions about anything you think you should already know or that might make you look like a newbie.

Don’t worry, we have you covered. Whether you are a beginner gardener or just looking to up your gardening game in Oceanside, San Marcos, or Scripps Ranch, here are answers to 10 of the most common gardening questions, including gardening basics to get you started.

10 Common Gardening Questions

1. How often should I water?

This is, of course, one of the most frequently asked questions about any type of gardening. From vegetable gardens to succulents, how much and how often to water can be challenging to determine. The bad news is that there is not a uniform answer that is going to work for every gardener and you cannot simply decide you are going to water once a week on Sundays and leave it at that.

How often you need to water your garden will depend on a variety of factors, including the climate where you live, the time of year, the amount of rainfall you receive, the type of soil you have, where your plants are located in your garden, and whether your plants are in containers or the ground.

Even when you think you have it all figured out, it will change on you, because your soil is going to dry out faster some weeks than it does other weeks. For example, your soil is going to dry out a lot faster during hot, dry months than it will during colder months. You will also find that some plants in your garden need water more often than others.

So, here is what you are going to do so that you know how often to water your plants.

The first step is to read the labels when you purchase seeds or plants. Mostly, you need to know if the plant is drought-tolerant once established or if it prefers moist soil. Plants that prefer moist soil are going to need to be watered more often.

For most of your plants, you are simply going to stick your finger about one inch into the soil. If the soil is dry, it is time to water deeply. If the soil still feels moist, wait until it feels dry. In Southern California, most gardeners are able to water deeply about once a week in cooler weather and twice a week in hotter weather.

If you really have a hard time knowing when to water your garden, plant some leafy green lettuces between your vegetables or in your flowerbed. When the lettuce leaves start to wilt, it is time to water.

2. What does an inch of water mean?

If you have eavesdropped on any gardening conversations, attended a seminar or read articles on gardening, you have probably heard over and over again that most plants need an inch of water once or twice per week.

It is great that folks have figured this out and are spreading the news, but it is not very helpful if you have no idea how to tell when you have reached an inch of water when irrigating your garden. That is why this one ranks so high among common gardening questions.

It is the same concept as a rain gauge that measures the amount of water you get from a storm, but that is a little more difficult to determine if you are watering your garden by hand or with an irrigation system that might not be calibrated to disperse a perfectly even amount of water throughout your garden beds.

To give you an idea on a larger scale, irrigating a 1,000-square-foot, natural grass lawn with one inch of water would require about 623 gallons of water. Now, to scale that back down to garden size, that is .623 gallons per square foot. This means that a six foot by six foot garden bed, which has an area of 32 square feet, would need just shy of 20 gallons of water.

3. How often should I fertilize my plants?

How often you fertilize depends on what you are fertilizing and which type of fertilizer you are using. If you are fertilizing fruit trees with a fertilizer made specifically for them, you are going to fertilize them once a year in spring. If you are fertilizing a natural grass lawn, you will likely want to do that twice a year (some people even do it three times per year). Vegetable gardeners can fertilize their garden beds about once a month with a quick-release fertilizer or about once a season with a slow-release fertilizer.

Some gardeners prefer to feed their flowers and plants with a liquid-soluble plant food once every one to two weeks.

Some plants are heavy feeders and require regular fertilizing to thrive, while others will happily grow and produce for years with little to know fertilizer. In fact, there are some plants that you might kill if you fertilize them too often and increase the level of nitrogen in the soil higher than they can handle.

If you really want to get into fertilizing for enhanced blooms or higher food production, look up each type of plant to find the type of fertilizer and fertilizing schedule that works best for them.

Most gardeners are going to do just fine if they mix compost into the soil before planting, side dress their plants with more compost every couple of months and use a natural, liquid-soluble plant food once or twice a month.

4. What does partial sun/partial shade/full sun/full shade mean?

Full shade refers to areas in your garden that receive fewer than four hours of sun each day.

Partial shade and partial sun refer to areas of your garden that receive between four hours and six hours of sun each day. If your plant calls for partial shade, it will do better at the lower end of this sun exposure scale. If your plant calls for partial sun, it will do better at the higher end of this time frame.

Full sun refers to areas in your garden that receive at least six hours of sun each day.

5. Should I plant in containers, raised garden beds or in the ground?

The answer to these gardening questions depends on your gardening situation. Most plants can be grown in containers, in raised garden beds or in the ground, so your choice is more dependent on how much space you have, how good your ground soil is and your particular gardening needs.

For example, if you live in an area where you need to bring your plants inside in the winter, you will want to plant in containers, while if you want your plants to have more soil space to establish expansive root systems, you will want to plant them in raised beds or in the ground. Another benefit of growing in containers or raised garden beds is that you can more easily work and control the quality of your soil. Plus, container gardening can allow you to grow your own food even if you only have a small patio or balcony.

If you enjoy gardening but have difficulties with stooping, bending or squatting repeatedly, you can build tall raised garden beds that allow you to garden while standing or you can place containers on platforms for the same effect.

On the other hand, you can save money by growing in the ground, since you do not have to pay for containers or for materials to build raised garden beds.

6. How do I know when it is the first frost or last frost?

Knowing when the last frost is expected in spring is best left to the experts. You can determine your garden’s first frost by checking a thermometer to see if the temperature has dropped below 32 degrees and visibly seeing a layer of frost on your plants and the ground. However, this is not necessarily helpful to you, because, as a gardener, you probably were trying to get something in the ground before the first frost occurred.

The easiest thing to do is look up the first and last frost date estimates published by your local extension office or go to a site like The Old Farmer’s Almanac where you can enter your ZIP code and find out the estimated first and last frost dates for your area.

7. What are soil amendments and what do they do?

Soil amendments are materials added to soil to improve soil structure, enhance drainage or moisture retention, adjust your soil’s pH, or add nutrients. For example, you might add peat to your soil to improve the soil structure, or you might use compost as a soil amendment to add nutrients and improve your soil’s structure.

Different types of plants like different types of soil, so there is no uniform answer regarding which soil amendments you should use. For example, azaleas like acidic soil, so you might want to mix in peat moss if a soil test shows that your soil is on the alkaline side.

8. What are the easiest vegetables to grow?

If you are just getting started, don’t have much time to dedicate to gardening or are pretty sure you were not born with a green thumb, it is a great idea to choose some easy-to-grow food plants. This will allow you to enjoy the benefits of growing your own food without the stress or time of caring for higher-maintenance plants. If you need to build your gardening confidence, this is also a great way to expand your gardening skills and build on your successes. Growing easy vegetables is also a good choice if you plan on gardening with your kids.

Some of the easiest foods to grow are lettuces, tomatoes (especially cherry tomatoes), carrots, and radishes. Radishes are a particularly good choice for gardening with children since you can go from seed to harvest in less than a month.

9. What is the difference between compost and mulch?

The terms compost and mulch are sometimes used interchangeably, which has created some confusion regarding the difference between the two. While compost is sometimes used as mulch, they are two different things that serve different purposes in your garden.

The basic answer to this gardening question is that compost is an organic soil amendment made up of decomposed materials. Gardeners mix compost into soil or side dress plants with it throughout the season to add nutrients to the soil and improve soil structure.

Mulch is most often used to describe organic materials but can describe either organic or inorganic materials that are spread on top of the soil to limit weed growth, reduce erosion, moderate soil temperature and improve moisture retention. Some common types of mulch include wood chips, gravel, straw or pine needles.

To learn more, check out our previous post: What is the Difference Between Mulch & Compost?

10. How do I know when a plant is established?

You have probably heard many references regarding plants becoming established. In Southern California, you have likely seen tags on plants that say they are drought-tolerant once established. If you listen to gardening podcasts or read gardening articles, you have probably heard people talk about plants being well established.

If so, then you likely know that your plants need more water and food before they are established and that you can start watering them less once they are established. This, of course, leads to the perennial gardening question: How do you know when a plant is established?

After you transplant a plant into your garden, it will take time for the root system to develop and spread into the surrounding soil and for new growth to appear on the plant. This is the time (prior to becoming established) that your plants need more food and water, since their root systems are not able to adequately extract them from the soil.

Once the root system is established, you will notice new growth above the soil. You will also notice that you cannot simply yank the plant out of the ground with a little tug. Shrubs can take one to two years to become established. Trees might take up to three years to become established in your garden.

The post 10 Common Gardening Questions Answered appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

We have the ability to choose our home, furnishings and which renovations to implement, but we can’t wave a magic wand around the yard to change the soil type.

In San Diego and other parts of Southern California, our soils are composed primarily of dense clay that is back-breaking to dig through whether it’s wet or dry.

By understanding the strengths and weaknesses of clay soil and by landscaping with native plants that love it, you can garden efficiently and cultivate a show-stopping yard.

 How to Identify Clay Soil

Soil that consists of 50% or more clay particles is referred to as heavy clay soil. Clay particles are the tiniest of soil particles with silt intermediate in size and sand the largest. Interestingly enough, clay particles are held together tightly by electrochemical forces which is why it’s found in dense layers.

If you live in San Diego, it’s probably safe to assume there is clay soil in your garden, however, confirm any suspicion by performing some tests.

Check color and consistency –

Clay soil tens to be tinted red or orange and sticks to shoes if stepped on when wet.

Observe water – 

Do you see puddling or water run-off in the yard after a rain?

Clay soil absorbs water very slowly and retains it well, causing excess to wash away. Think about the texture of modeling clay and what might happen if you were to dump water on top of it. The majority of water runs off, right? Clay soil behaves in the same manner.

Buy a soil test –

Head to your local nursery or gardening center to purchase a soil test kit. Microclimates exist in every yard so be sure to test multiple spots in order to avoid an erroneous result. Note that if the kit needs to be sent away, it could take a long time to receive results depending on how busy the lab is.

Perform a hand test –

It might just be easier to test the soil yourself with the following method.

Roll up a ball of soil (add moisture, if necessary) to roughly the size of a ping pong ball and slowly flatten it into a ribbon. If your ribbon measures less than 1 inch long before breaking, you have loam or silt. If your ribbon measures 1 to 2 inches long before breaking, you have clay loam. If your ribbon measures more than two inches long before breaking, you have clay.

UC Davis has prepared an excellent video that not only demonstrates the hand test, but will tell you more than you probably need to know about the soil in your yard.

Let the kids test it –

Just for fun, let the kids fill a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid about 1/3 full with backyard soil. Fill the rest of the jar with water, leaving a small amount of air between the lid and the water. Place the lid on and have the kids shake it as much as they like. The soil should separate into layers with sand on the bottom, silt in the middle and clay on top.

Why Clay Soil Needs TLC

The small particle size of clay soil means it becomes easily compacted and disallows air circulation as well as good drainage.

Trees, such as our native Torrey Pine, and larger shrubs with strong roots can handle clay soil because their roots are able to penetrate through the dirt, unlike weaker plants such as annuals, perennials and vegetables.

Do you plant spring bulbs in the fall? In clay soil, these bulbs are likely to rot during the winter as clay retains so much water and is slow to warm in the spring.

Because of its density and poor drainage, clay soil retains important nutrients that promote healthy plant growth, however, this means in coastal Southern California it also retains sea salt which is bad, because salt changes the soil’s pH. Also, be careful not to over-fertilize plants as clay soil is already nutrient dense. Unabsorbed fertilizer is not only a waste of money, but it washes off unnecessarily into gutters and then into the ocean, exposing sea life to chemicals.

 How To Amend Clay Soil

The best thing do to is amend an entire area at once versus just digging a hole and amending the soil around the new plant. The reason is because if the plant grows healthy roots, they will lock themselves into the area of amended soil only and become unable to grow into the denser clay surrounding the hole. As a result, the root will wind around the amended space only becoming a root-bound, weaker plant.

Instead, till soil approximately 8 inches down by mixing in grass clippings or compost. Working with clay soil takes effort so skip the gym for the day and use gardening as exercise. Add a thin layer of more organic matter to the top of the best once or twice a year.

Occasionally test the pH of the soil bed and add amendments depending on the readings to adjust acidity and alkalinity. Amendments can include builder’s sand, gypsum, composted manure, compost or other coarse organic material and they will add in beneficial microbes while providing for better drainage.

Also, some nurseries sell liquid products, like Liquid Gypsum, to help break up clay soil.

How to Water Plants in Clay Soil

Over-watering a yard with clay soil is a mistake that many homeowners and gardeners make as the very nature of clay suggests less frequent watering.

Rather than running the irrigation daily for short periods of time, the most efficient way to water a garden with clay soil is to water less frequently but deeply, for example, watering twice a day (spaced a few hours apart) just 1-2 times per week.

Daily light watering encourages shallow roots because the water stays toward the surface, resulting in a less drought-tolerant plant. If you notice the top layer of soil is perpetually wet, decrease irrigation in the area.

It’s ok to thoroughly water newly-planted flowers to settle them into the soil.

Use Mulch

A layer of mulch over any soil will prohibit weeds from spreading throughout the yard as it prevents seeds from landing on the soil and germinating.

Mulch slows water run-off which will help keep walkways, patios and driveways clear of clay mud during the rainy season and spare it from  being tracked into your house.

10 California Native Plants and Trees for Clay Soil

The California Native Plant Society is a non-profit resource that maintains a database of native plants, shrubs, vines and trees that will do well in clay soil.

Here are a few suggestions:

1. California Aster (Aster chilensis):

This common aster is a perennial herb that was thought to have originated in Chile, hence the name, and does not grow much taller than a few feet.

2.  Lemonade Berry (Rhus integrifolia): 

Lemonade berry is a shrub that is found in coastal canyons that can grow from 3-26 feet tall with tiny clustered flowers that bloom in the spring.

3. California Coneflower (Rudbeckia Californica): 

With a sunflower-like head, this branchless member of the aster family grows well in coastal Southern California, but can be found in mountain areas and near streams.

4. Yarrow (Achillea millefoliuma): 

This flowering herb was used to stop bleeding from wounds many years ago and produces stems up to 3 feet tall.

5. Coyote Bush (Baccharis pilularis):

Drought-tolerant and deer-proof, this native plant tolerates poor soil conditions and generally grows shorter than 10 feet tall.

6. Wild lilac (Ceanothus):

Ceanothus ranges from tall to short but all grow well in clay soil and are excellent for Southern California hillsides as their deep, strong roots help prevent erosion.  The exact time of year depends on the species of ceanothus but more bloom with blue or white flowers in the late winter and early spring.

7. Common verbena (Verbena lasiostachys): 

A perennial herb native to the Western United States, butterflies love this plant and beware that it spreads quickly. It’s a popular choice for hillsides.

8. Big Leaf Maple (Acer macrophyllum): 

9. California Fan Palm (Washingtonia filifera): 

10. Western azalea (Rhododendron occidentale):

Avoid headaches later by cleaning clay soil off of shoes and tools right away as its sticky nature leads to caked-on mess if left to dry.

If you happen to be in one of Southern California’s new housing developments, you may need to seek some professional help if topsoil in your garden was bulldozed during grading of the new home sites, leaving a tough layer of clay exposed. If you want to leave it up to the professionals, we provide landscaping services throughout Southern California, from Carlsbad to San Diego and Lakeside.

Feeling crafty? Some homeowners report success with making DIY bricks by filling wooden molds with clay soil and drying them in the sun.

Just remember that clay soil takes work, but the effort is worth a healthy garden that’s sure to be the envy of the neighborhood.

Photo credits (in order of apperance): clay in hand, Flickr/USDAgov; muddy shoes, Flickr/ARG_Flickr; aster, Flickr/jkirkhart35; lemonade berry, Flickr/briweldon; coneflower Flickr/jkirkhart35; yarrow, Flickr/gmayfield10; coyote bush, Flickr/briweldon; wild lilac, Flickr/Neilhooting; verbena, Flickr/Don M. Davis; oak, Flickr/briweldon; palm, Flickr/Ettore Balocchi; Man digging, Flickr/USDAgov

The post Clay Soil Guide: How to Garden in Southern California Clay Soil appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Long-time gardeners know that having the proper tools on hand is an essential part of being able to complete gardening tasks as quickly and easily as possible. These tools should be kept clean and functioning properly and, since some gardening tools can be dangerous, they should be securely stored out of reach and away from areas where children or pets play. Of course, to make your gardening tasks easier, your tools should also be readily available and easy to find whenever you have a little extra time to spend in your garden.

While not every gardener has room for a dedicated potting space, many avid gardeners dream of the perfect gardening solution where they can store their supplies and easily plant or transplant flowers and plants without constantly stooping and bending.

For folks who are newer to the gardening scene, you will soon find out that there is more to backyard gardening than simple shovels and rakes, and you will soon see that you are going to need some sort of storage solution to keep all of your tools and supplies secure and accessible.

Here are just some of the tools and supplies you will likely need when you start growing food plants or ornamental plants in your garden:

• Trowel
• Spade
• Gloves
• Twine
• Seeds/seedlings
• Scissors/kitchen shears
• Pruning shears
• Potting soil
• Plant markers
• Permanent marker
• Harvest basket
• Flowerpots
• Journal and pen (to keep track of planting dates and garden layout for crop rotation)
• Garden hose
• Spray nozzle
• Rake
• Shovel
• Hoe
• Wheelbarrow

There are, of course, many other tools you might consider adding to your inventory as you get further into gardening and start to consider things that may make backyard tasks more convenient or help keep this hobby fun. However, these are the basics that most home gardeners will need when they begin gardening or very soon after.

How to Create Storage and Workspace for Backyard Gardening

In an ideal world, we would all have the space and budget for a potting shed, which would provide a separate, dedicated space for storing tools and supplies, planting and transplanting, starting seedlings, hanging herbs to dry, and organizing our seeds. There would be plenty of room for our larger tools, like our shovels, rakes and wheelbarrows, as well as convenient storage for our smaller tools and supplies, such as hand trowels and twine.

Alas, not everyone has room for this luxury, but most folks can find at least a small spot somewhere in their yard that they can dedicate to a potting bench, potting table or some other form of potting station. And, of course, if you are able to have a full shed dedicated to gardening, you can be sure you will want a potting bench inside it, so this guide will prove useful to you either way.

First, let’s take a quick look at some of the reasons anyone doing more than occasional gardening needs a potting bench:

• A potting table or bench provides a dedicated work space for gardening tasks, which keeps other surfaces in your outdoor living areas cleaner and free of clutter.
• Having a work space that does not require stooping or bending is better for your back and can help you enjoy gardening with as little pain as possible.
• Using a potting bench to store your tools and supplies keeps all of the things you need close at hand and near your work space.
• Properly storing your gardening tools reduces the risk of a child or pet being injured by them.
• Having a dedicated spot for tools and supplies helps keep them organized and helps you avoid cluttering your patio or yard with gardening implements and planters.
• Potting soil, flowerpots and other heavy supplies can be stored on lower shelves to ensure that they are at your work space and do not have to be carried to your garden from your shed or garage.
• A potting station simply makes completing gardening tasks easier and makes gardening more enjoyable.

13 Potting Bench Ideas

Now that any remaining doubts have left your mind and you are certain that you need a potting bench, let’s look at some potting bench ideas to get you started.

1. Buy a potting bench.

The fastest and easiest way to obtain a potting bench for your backyard gardening needs is to simply order one online or find one to purchase locally. This allows you to quickly employ a work space solution with very little effort.

2. Look for free potting bench plans online.

There are lots of free potting bench plans online. This means that you can spend some time browsing designs to find the size and style that work best for you before downloading plans to build you own potting bench. If you are somewhat handy and like the idea of a do-it-yourself project that allows you to customize your potting station to suit your needs, this might be the right option for you. There are even plans available that show you how to make a potting bench out of old, wood pallets.

3. Repurpose an old dresser.

Dressers that have seen better days can be refinished or left in their rustic state for use outdoors as potting stations. The drawers can be used to store seeds, tools and small supplies or can be removed and replaced with open shelves. The top of the dresser makes a great work space for planting flowers and herbs.

4. Move an old work bench from the garage to your backyard.

If you have a work bench in your garage that you are not currently using, consider bringing it outside to turn into a potting bench.

5. Use a vanity to beautify your garden.

Search garage sales and flea markets for a vanity in need of a new home. The small drawers that once held make-up and hair products are perfect for seed storage, and this option allows you to sit while you work.

6. Repurpose a sofa table.

Sofa tables are tall and thin, which makes them a good choice for gardeners with limited space. Sofa tables are an ideal height for filling flowerpots without stooping or bending, and the narrow depth allows you to tuck them into smaller spaces in side yards or in a corner near your garden.

7. Bring new life to your sideboard.

Sideboards make great dining room storage, but they can be just as fashionable and functional in your yard. If you happen to have a sideboard that you no longer want to use indoors, take it outside to transform it into a great solution to make backyard gardening easier. This option offers plenty of storage and may even have cabinets or drawers large enough to fit bags of potting soil and larger supplies.

8. Combine a table and bookshelf for tons of storage and space.

Transform a rectangular dining table or patio table into a potting station for plenty of space on which to work. By adding a small bookshelf on top of or under the table, you can create plenty of storage as well. If you put the bookshelf on top of the table, be sure to secure it to avoid accidents that could injure you, your children or your pets.

9. Find an old armoire or hutch that can be transformed into a potting station.

The best part about choosing an armoire for your backyard gardening station is that you can hide all of the dirt and clutter simply by closing the doors. This, alone, makes this a great option for gardeners who also like to entertain and who need to create multi-functional outdoor living spaces that allow for both. An armoire or a hutch with upper shelves also provides a nice backing on which you can hang smaller tools.

10. Install a Murphy table to save space.

Folks who are working with particularly small areas can still enjoy the convenience of a potting station by installing a Murphy table. This type of work space hugs the wall and takes up very little room. It can then be opened by folding down the table to reveal both a work surface and interior shelves for storage.

11. Purchase a folding table.

If you want a backyard gardening solution that you can simply fold up and put away in between gardening days, a folding table might be your best choice. This is an option that you can bring out only when you need it and can be stored in a narrow space when not in use.

12. Find a rolling table, cart or bar cart to transform into a portable potting bench.

Rolling tables, carts and bar carts take up little space, provide both storage and a work space and can be easily rolled away to be stored out of sight when not in use.

13. Save space with a deck box.

Deck boxes are handy for storing patio cushions, pool toys and board games, but they can also be used for potting stations. One of the nice things about choosing a deck box is that you can store everything from shovels and bags of potting soil to hand trowels and seed packets in the box (depending on how big your deck box is). Another nice thing is that the top of the lid of your deck box provides a work surface. Just keep in mind that most deck boxes are lower than tables and potting benches, so you will be doing more bending.

Customizing Your Potting Bench

Once you have purchased, built or repurposed your piece, it is time to customize your new potting station to make it work for you. After all, the point is to have a work space that makes your backyard gardening tasks easier, so this is more than just a spot to stash your soil amendments and seeds.

The first step is to stock your station with the basics. This will largely consist of the gardening tools and supplies listed above, but you may need to add a few things to the list that are specific to your needs. For example, if you plan on starting a lot of seeds indoors before the growing season, you will want to stock up on seed starter trays or pots. Or, if you are planning on working with orchids, you might instead need plant stakes and straight-nosed snips.

You may find that you go through a lot of plant markers, particularly if you are starting seeds early in the season, so keep in mind that you can use all sorts of things as plant markers, such as old spoons, popsicle sticks, unused paint stirrers and rocks.

Get creative with your storage options to keep things organized and out of sight. Baskets work well for this and can make your potting station more attractive when not in use. You might want to consider mason jars for storing seed packets, since this well keep them dry and keep out critters who might want to eat your seeds. For garden tools, you could keep them in a small bucket, hang them on hooks from the shelves or add a towel bar on the side with hooks to save space.

You will see that there are some commercial options that come with wet or dry sinks. You can also build a sink into a repurposed piece of furniture or a DIY potting bench. However, it is often easier and less expensive to just make sure you have easy access to a garden hose nearby.

Backyard Gardening Resources

• 10 Plants to Grow with Kids (Kids Gardening Guide)
• 7 Fruits & Vegetables to Grow in You hanging Garden
• How to Choose Pots for a Patio Container Garden
• 5 Landscape Lighting Ideas for Vegetable Gardens
• Gardening for Beginners Guide: Top 10 Tips + Ideas
• How to Grow a Cutting Garden
• How to Find Free Seeds for Your Backyard Garden

The post How to Set Up the Perfect Potting Bench for Backyard Gardening (Guide) appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

1. Colorful Sidewalk Border

Increase your home’s curb appeal and brighten the neighborhood with colorful, easy-care plants planted along the sidewalk. You will need to keep them trimmed to make sure pedestrians and wheelchairs can traverse the sidewalk unimpeded, so be sure to choose plants that you will not have to constantly prune to keep them tidy.

2. Mailbox

Creating a flower bed around your mailbox is a quick, inexpensive way to spruce up a boring pole and immediately increase your home’s curb appeal. Choose blooms that complement your existing landscaping and the architecture of your home for a cohesive look.

3. Monochromatic 

A single-hued splash of color increases visual interest and breaks up the monotony of a lawn, concrete hardscapes, or landscapes with mostly green foliage without creating a cacophony of various colors. This provides a cleaner look that goes well with modern architecture, Mediterranean-style homes, and traditional facades. If you are looking for a simple, attractive pop of color that will not detract from other landscaping features, a monochromatic flower bed filled with blooms in the same or similar colors may be your best choice.

4. Dichromatic 

If you are looking for a bit more color but still want a well-manicured look, consider going with a dichromatic flower bed design. Choose two colors that contrast or complement each other, such as the pink and white petunias in the photo above, to create beautiful flower beds. For a sleeker look, plant all one color in one row, and then only the second color in an adjacent row. Alternatively, you can plant every other plant the same color, such as planting one plant with white blooms followed by one plant with red blooms, followed by another plant with white blooms. For a softer look, plant a bit more randomly, but be sure to avoid distinct clumps of one color that will stand out among more random plantings in the rest of the bed or border.

5. Walkway Border 

Walking paths control traffic and guide your guests between entries, outdoor living areas, and different features in your yard. You can enhance the look of your pathways and gently encourage guests to stay on the path by bordering walkways with flowers or plants. You will need to keep them trimmed so that they do not block the walking path, so choose plants that will not require much trimming to keep them tidy and out of the way.

6. Shaped 

Most flower beds are round, oval, square, or rectangular. They may gently curve around a tree or along the fence in a backyard, or they may be an oval island in the middle of a lawn. It is rare that you will see a flower bed in the shape of a star or a heart or a crescent moon. This means that you can add a unique feature that will instantly add visual interest to your yard by installing a flower bed in a fun shape.

7. Wildflower 

Low-maintenance wildflowers are perfect for borders and flower beds where the goal is a more natural look. Look for a wildflower seed mix at a local nursery or garden center to find options that will be easy to grow, drought-tolerant, and beneficial for local wildlife.

8. Patterned 

The zig-zag pattern of the flower bed in the above photo shows just how fun it can be to get creative with your flower bed design. This pop of pink crisscrossing the green grass and bordered by pavers provides a fun, interesting look for you and your guests to enjoy. If zig-zags are not your style, you might want to consider stripes, a chevron pattern, a checkerboard, or a wave design.

9. Butterfly and Bee Garden 

Attract pollinators to your yard with flower beds that add color and texture while also supporting local wildlife. Moths, butterflies, bees, and other pollinators coming into your yard provides some great visuals to enjoy while also increasing pollination for your fruit trees or your food garden.

10. Wheelbarrow 

If you have a rusted-out or broken wheelbarrow that no longer serves its intended purpose, consider transforming it into a planter. This is one of those flower bed ideas that you will see all over social media, so you may have already considered this one. But, if not, it is worth a look. For an even more rustic feel, look for a wooden wheelbarrow or an antique wheelbarrow at local flea markets or antique stores.

11. Boat 

Using old boats as flower beds is particularly fun in beach towns and at lake houses, but they can be used in any garden where you want to achieve a rustic or whimsical look. Boats are easy to transform into flower beds once you figure out how to get them home, since they sit on the ground and usually have a solid bottom.

12. Moon Garden

If you often entertain at night or work long days and cannot enjoy your outdoor living areas until after the sun goes down, consider planting a moonlight garden meant to be enjoyed at night. It is all about plant selection with this one, since a moon garden relies on plants that shimmer and glow in the moonlight. Choose plants with silvery or gray foliage and white or light flowers that will reflect the light of the moon. Of course, this flower bed will also be beautiful during the day, but it will take on a completely different look after sunset, which makes it particularly enticing at night.

13. Window Boxes

Window boxes are an easy way to add color, beautify boring windows, and increase your home’s curb appeal. They may not be on the ground like most flower beds, but they are still a great way to enhance visual appeal and add a whimsical touch to your landscaping.

14. Native Flower Borders and Beds

Native plants are a low-water, low-maintenance choice that adds color and texture without much work. Visit a local garden center to find plants that thrive in your area, have colorful blooms, and will be drought tolerant.

15. Edible Flowers 

There are several options for incorporating food plants into your flower beds, some of which we will cover on this list of flower bed ideas. But this one is not about plants you might find in a vegetable garden. This one is about edible flowers, such as pansies, lavender, or nasturtium. You can then cook with them, bake with them, or use them fresh in salads or as garnishes.

16. Food Plant Beds and Borders

This cabbage garden might be a bit much for your yard, but it is a perfect example of how you can create colorful, attractive borders and flower beds using only food plants. If you have limited space, this is a great way to make your flower beds serve two purposes by adding both function and beauty to your yard.

17. Vibrant 

If you want a bold look and are not afraid of a lot of color, you might really enjoy a vibrant flower bed filled with brightly colored blooms. This is a great choice for borders around a natural grass or synthetic lawn or to add soft textures and bright hues to hardscape-heavy outdoor living areas.

18. Ombre 

Ombre is the gradual blending of hues starting with the lightest hue and ending with the darkest. This gradual color change, when used in flower beds, can lead guests along ever-brightening pathways or create a focal point at the darkest hue with lighter hues gradually fading out around it. An example of this would be to plant a flower bed with only pink-flowering plants. At one end of the bed, you would start with a pale pink and work your way to a vibrant fuchsia at the other end of the flower bed or border.

19. Vertical Gardens

If you have limited space, an ugly wall or fence, or want to create a focal point on one side of your outdoor living area, consider going vertical. This is a great way to add color to a space in a small footprint or to hide an ugly structure. You can opt for flowering herbs or lettuces to make it a food garden, flowering ornamentals for lots of color, or succulents that will require little water and maintenance.

20. Rock Garden 

Creating a rock garden flower bed will give your yard a unique look that offers more visual interest in regards to height and varying textures. Rock gardens conserve water, give your yard a more natural look, and can be used in landscaping around homes of any architectural style. Place your rocks first, and then plant colorful blooms around the rocks and between them to add a softer texture and pops of color.

21. Borders Around Artificial Grass

Most people who choose synthetic turf are looking for a low-water, low-maintenance ground cover with the look, feel, and function of a natural grass lawn. To make your artificial grass look even more natural and enhance the visual appeal of your outdoor living spaces beyond the vibrant, year-round green of manufactured grass, surround your lawn with plants in varying textures and hues.

22. Cactus Garden

If you are looking for low-maintenance, drought-tolerant flower bed options that will thrive in most parts of Southern California, consider a cactus garden. Cacti complement homes with southwestern, hacienda-style, Mediterranean, Mid-Century Modern, or Spanish-style architecture. When strategically placed, they can even increase your home’s security by warding off potential intruders. That is not something that can be said about most flower beds.

23. Island 

Island flower beds provide a perfect opportunity to add a pop of color to your landscaping design. If you have a natural grass lawn, reducing the lawn size by adding an island flower bed can help you save water. If you are installing a large artificial grass lawn, an island flower bed can break up the space and add even more visual interest. Since these beds will be seen from all sides, it is best to plant the tallest plants in the center and the shortest plants around the edge.

24. Climbing 

If you have a fence or porch that is drab or unsightly, consider filling your flower bed with climbers that will wrap themselves around porch railings, climb fences, or fill in those empty spaces beneath raised decks. You may need to employ trellises to train your plants, particularly if you are hoping to cover a fence or wall with a surface to which vines might not be able to attach. Climbing flower beds are also a good idea for areas where you have an arch, arbor, gazebo, or pergola that you would like to cover with colorful vines.

25. Shade Gardens Around Trees

It is easiest to grow plants or flowers in spots that get plenty of sunlight. However, there are plenty of options that will thrive in shady areas, such as around the base of trees or near structures. It is all about the right plant choice. For example, there are many varieties of hostas and ferns that grow well in part or full shade. If you are planting your shade garden around the base of a tree, make sure you choose shallow-rooted plants that will not compete with the tree for water or nutrients. You also need to avoid placing soil or mulch against the trunk of the tree.

26. Retaining Wall 

There are two ways you can make a retaining wall flower bed work for you. The first use is to enhance the visual appeal of an existing retaining wall that can be made more attractive by planting colorful flowers or trailing plants that will soften the look of a stark wall. The second way to make this work for you is to use pavers or stones to create a retaining wall for a raised flower bed. Adding levels to your landscaping increases visual interest by bringing height and depth to the design.

27. Raised with Seating

Raised flower beds and borders increase visual interest by adding height to your landscape design. Creating a raised flower bed in the corner of your outdoor living area and incorporating a bench into the design is a great way to add more seating while also adding color and texture to a patio or deck.

28. Herb Garden

Not all flower bed ideas have to have ornamental plants; herb gardens are colorful additions to any landscape that happen to also serve a functional purpose. Medicinal and culinary herbs come in a beautiful variety of greens with blooms in a range of colors, including white, purple, lavender, orange, blue, and pink. If you have limited space, an herb garden offers the perfect balance between beauty and function for small space gardens.

29. Found Object 

Flower beds can be crafted from just about anything that offers a large enough basin for soil and plants. This might include turning vintage suitcases into a row of flower beds, setting up a wire bed frame in your garden and making a literal flower bed, or – like the above photo – filling an antique horse cart with colorful blooms.

30. Cutting Garden

Some flower bed ideas are really no-brainers. Choosing flowering plants with blooms that are appropriate for floral arrangements allows you to beautify both the exterior and interior of your home. Be sure to plant both showy blooms and fillers, such as dahlias, sunflowers, or roses along with snapdragons, feverfew, and feather ferns.

(Original Publication Date: January 10, 2019 | Refresh Date: January 11, 2022)

The post 30 Flower Bed Ideas for 2022 appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Here in San Diego where frost and climate aren’t big factors, gardening can be a year-round activity.

In fact, you may find yourself doing some sort of gardening every day because we live in one of the few regions of the world where that’s actually possible.

If you’re an avid gardener, you probably tend to your garden daily and have tried and true tools that help you cultivate healthy vegetables and plants.

Still, there’s plenty of implements and tools that can improve your crops and and make your job easier that you might not know even exist.

But let’s start at the beginning.

If you’re a new gardener, these are your necessary tools: 

— Pruners
— Shovels
— Hand Cultivator
— Garden Trowel
— Garden Pail or Bucket
— Weeders

Nice to have, but not completely necessary items include:

— Potting Bench
— Leaf Shredder or Mulcher
— Garden Cart
— Garden Tool Tote
— Leaf Blower
— Garden Debris Container (for pulled weeds, pruned branches, and raked leaves)

Now let’s say you have all that, and you’re looking for the latest and greatest tools to enhance your collection. You’re in the right place, because below, we’ve rounded up some of the coolest and most useful garden tools and gadgets that aren’t must-haves, but would sure be nice to own.

Cool Garden Tools and Gadgets

EasyBloom 1000 Plant Sensor —

Using the same technology that NASA used for soil testing on the Mars Phoenix mission, this sensor measures drainage, soil moisture, humidity, temperature, and available sunlight. You’ll need to first plug the device into a computer using the USB port and set it to “Recommend” or “Diagnose.” Then, stick the probe into the area where you’d like to grow plants or vegetables. After 24 hours, plug the device back into your computer and you’ll be led to a website that reads the data from the probe and then lists plants that will grow well in the area tested (Recommend mode) or diagnoses sick plants and tells you how to bring them back to health (Diagnose mode).

You can also narrow the results by season, drought tolerance, plant height, and so on.

Plant Mate Solar Power Spikes for Plants —

Stick these solar-powered spikes in the ground and  they’ll tell you all about the soil nutrients, moisture, sun levels, and temperatures your plants are getting in your garden. All the information is sent to your iPhone or other small handheld and will help if you grow your own crops and aren’t sure what should go where in your garden, or if you don’t know why your crops are scraggly and unhealthy.

Fruit Picker Basket —

For high-hanging fruit, densely packed fruit trees, or just easy convenience, the Fruit Picker has a handle and seven prongs to pull fruit off branches. A sturdy and cushioned metal basket holds the fruit.

Husqvana Robotic Automower —

This lawn Roomba is an automatic mower that’s even designed to navigate uneven terrain and slopes up to 35%. And it’s quieter than a regular lawn mower too, thanks to the electric motor. There’s even a solar-powered version. The unit works by mowing within an area you’ve set using wires placed along your yard’s perimeter, and on a schedule you choose. When the battery gets low, the mower returns to its charging station. Plus, if anything disturbs the automower’s mowing, a text message will be sent to your phone.

Rittenhouse Electro Weeder —

A nice alternative to chemical weeding, this device delivers a deadly (to weeds) infrared heat. The accurate heat blast (so you won’t kill nearby plants) reaches temperatures of up to 1800 F by burning propane. This heat is then used to eradicate dandelions and other weeds in your garden. According to the website, “the intense heat acts directly on the weeds and weed seeds by making the protein in their cells explode.” This method takes about twice as long as chemical applications, but for the environment? It’s worth it.

Bionic Gloves — 

These orthopedic-hand-surgeon-developed gloves were designed in conjunction with the manufacturer to “provide extra support and mild compression to help reduce pain and discomfort from swollen and sore joints” according to the maker’s website. An independent study even showed that grip and pinch strength and force were improved with use and concluded that users could apply more force with less discomfort while wearing the gloves. The Bionic Gloves are marketed primarily to arthritis sufferers, but anybody looking to prolong gardening time with less hand fatigue can wear them.

Havahart Spray Away Elite II Sprinkler —

This motion-activated sprinkler is small and solar-powered and designed to sense moving creatures (think rabbits, cats, raccoons, and other small garden intruders) from 35 feet away, spraying them with water to keep them away from your garden. The water release is accompanied by a sound and motion to further frighten the creature before it reaches your precious plants. Even better, the Spray Away uses only up to three cups of water per spray, and covers 1,900 square feet.

Hula Hoe —

This hoe skims horizontally below the soil surface and slices weed roots, keeping the soil undisturbed. Cutting both backward and forward, the Hula Hoe is a more versatile tool than your run-of-the-mill garden hoe. It’s easier on the back, too, thanks to the slight give of the hula.

WOLF-Garten Interchangeable Handle Tools —

WOLF-Garten makes short, long, and extendable handles that attach with a simple click to most garden tools it offers. The handles are made of light weight aluminum, wood or plastic, can be combined with more than 80 different attachments. The perfect solution for gardeners of varying heights who perform different tasks requiring adjustable handle lengths, these tools are wonderfully adjustable.

And just for fun…

Aerator Sandals —

Because if you’re walking anyway, why not do something healthy for your lawn or garden at the same time?

Final Thoughts

All it takes are a few proven garden tools to tend to your growing space, but why not experiment with some modern twists on the traditional to save time and the environment? The above products can go a long way toward improving our gardens and make it more even more enjoyable to do.

What are your favorite garden tools?

Photos (in order of appearance) courtesy of: Amazon.com; YankoDesign.com; Amaon.com; BionicGloves.com; Husqvarna.com; Havahart.com; Gardeners.com; WOLF-Garten.com; and Amazon.com.

The post Cool Garden Tools and Gadgets You May Not Have Tried Yet appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Benefits of Growing Sunflowers

Adding sunflowers to your yard is an easy way to add height, texture, and color to your landscaping. They are a cheerful addition that complements most architecture and landscape designs. They can spruce up a lackluster patio, hide an ugly fence, or add privacy to your outdoor living areas. But did you know that they also can be used to remove radiation from soil in contaminated areas?

Before we get into how to grow sunflowers, let’s look at 16 of the benefits they offer.

1. You can plant sunflowers to protect your garden or crops by attracting birds with their vibrant colors and tasty seeds.

2. Planting sunflowers to provide afternoon shade for food plants can help them survive the heat of Southern California summers.

3. Sunflowers add height to your garden and are great for planting in the back row of borders.

4. The height of sunflowers can help you block the view of air conditioning units, trash cans, or other unsightly things in your yard.

5. A row of sunflowers can increase privacy around your outdoor living areas.

6. Sunflowers are allelopathic, which means other plants do not grow well near them. This makes them a good choice for limiting weed growth.

7. If you like to watch squirrels frolic in your yard, you can plant sunflowers to attract them.

8. Sunflowers attract pollinators to your yard, which is good for your other plants, particularly those that produce food.

9. Sunflowers attract birds to your yard, which is good for bird watching and for pest control, since they will gladly eat insects while they are visiting.

10. Sunflowers are not considered toxic to humans, dogs, cats, or horses.

11. Sunflowers provide delicious, nutritious seeds that you and your family can enjoy.

12. You can also use sunflower seeds to fill your birdfeeders or simply allow the birds to eat them right off the flower.

13. Sunflowers are used for phytoremediation, which is a process in which plants are used to remove toxins, such as heavy metals and chemicals, from contaminated soil. Soil contaminants that can be removed by sunflowers include lead, cadmium, arsenic, chromium, and zinc.

14. Sunflowers make beautiful centerpieces and floral arrangements, so they are a solid addition to a cutting garden.

15. The root systems that help sunflowers stand tall add organic matter to the soil as they die and improve the soil structure for better water retention.

16. Sunflower leaves can be used as livestock feed.

Side note: If you are planting sunflowers to help remove toxins from soil you know to be contaminated, do not put the dead flowers, leaves, or stems in your compost bin or municipal yard waste bin. Also, do not feed the seeds, leaves, or any other part of the plant to birds or livestock.

How to Grow Sunflowers in Southern California

Plant Sunflower Seeds in a Sunny Spot

Sunflowers thrive when planted in areas that receive at least six hours of sun each day. You can plant them to shade other plants that require protection from the heat, but make sure taller varieties will not block the sun from reaching nearby plants completely.

Protect Sunflowers from the Wind

Taller varieties of sunflowers require protection from the wind to help ensure that the stalks do not bend or break. If your yard is frequently affected by wind, consider planting your sunflowers near a structure, such as a fence or shed, that can provide some protection.

Prepare the Soil

Before you plant sunflower seeds, prepare the soil by adding compost or mulch and mixing it in at least the first foot of soil. While this is not entirely necessary with sunflowers, it is always a good idea to make sure any flowering plant receives adequate nutrients to help ensure that your plants are healthy and that you and your family can enjoy bigger blossoms and a better harvest.

Know-How and When to Plant Sunflower Seeds

You can purchase sunflower seedlings at a local garden center, but is easy and less expensive to grow them from seeds. Sunflowers grow well when the seeds are planted directly in your garden, especially in areas like Southern California. Just make sure that you plant them after the last frost in spring. They grow best once the soil temperature has reached between 70 and 85 degrees.

Before planting sunflower seeds, place them in a plastic bag or food storage container with a wet paper towel for a couple of days. Do not seal the bag or container, and add water as needed to keep the paper towel moist. After a couple of days, look for the seeds that have sprouted, since these will be the best ones to plant in your garden to start seeing sunflowers soonest.

Plant seeds about one inch deep and about six inches apart in rows spaced two to three feet apart. If you are planning on cutting the flowers for use in arrangements or harvesting the seeds, plant some of your seeds every two weeks so that you will have a longer harvesting period.

Thin Sunflowers as They Grow

If you mostly plan on cutting your sunflowers for arrangements, you can allow them to grow closer together – even as close as about three inches apart – which will result in smaller flowers, but you will have more of them to adorn vases around your house.

If your main goal is to have a good harvest of seeds or to grow your sunflowers as tall as possible, you will need to thin them to about one foot apart to give each one room to grow and thrive.

Protect Seeds and Plants from Wildlife

As soon as you plant sunflower seeds, any nearby rats, mice, birds, squirrels, or snails will be happy to dig them up and eat them. This means that you will need to protect your seeds and give them a chance to grow by using a barrier to keep wildlife away from them. Hardware cloth laid over the ground is a good deterrent that should do the job.

If you have deer that frequent your garden, you will also need to protect your plants from these visitors, which you can do by using chicken wire around the flowers and stalks to act as deer fencing to keep them out.

Once your flowers produce seeds, you may want to cover the flowers loosely with a material that allows for good airflow to protect the seeds from birds and squirrels. Pantyhose are a popular choice for this, since bird netting can cause injury or death to birds that get trapped under it.

Water Sunflowers Properly

Sunflower seeds take about one to two weeks to germinate. During this time, you will need to keep the soil moist. As your plants grow and become established, start reducing the number of times you water them until you are down to one day per week. Their extensive root systems make sunflowers partially drought tolerant, so one day per week should be good for most of the year. During times of drought or excessive heat, you will need to increase irrigation accordingly.

Support Tall Varieties

Taller varieties of sunflowers may need support as their height increases and the flowers begin to weigh more. Your sunflowers may also need support if you live in a windy area. You can support sunflowers by staking them or by using twine to attach them to a nearby fence, tree, or structure.

Know When to Harvest Seeds

We will discuss how to harvest and use sunflower seeds in the next section. The first step is knowing when to harvest them. Signs to look for to know when to harvest sunflower seeds include the seeds darkening in color, the small petals covering the seeds drying and shriveling, the back of the flowers turning from green to yellow-brown, and the flowers beginning to droop. When you see these changes happening, it is time to harvest the seeds and remove the stalks.

Compost Remaining Leaves and Stalks

Once you have harvested the blossoms for seeds, remove the rest of the plant, cut it into manageable pieces, and add it to your compost bin. Keep in mind that you should not add it to your compost bin if you planted the sunflowers to clean up contaminated soil. In that case, you will either place the dead sunflowers in your trash bin or, if your soil was particularly contaminated, you may need to dispose of them as hazardous waste.

How to Harvest and Use Sunflower Seeds

Folks who are growing sunflowers to use as cut flowers can simply harvest the stems and blossoms as needed.

Those who are growing the seeds to attract wildlife to their yards can either leave the flowers uncovered for birds and squirrels to enjoy while they are on the plant or you can harvest the flowerheads and leave them around your yard with the seed side facing up so that critters can access them. Please note that this will attract all sorts of critters to your yard, including some that you might not want there, such as rats and mice.

Alternatively, you can remove the seeds from the flowers and scatter them throughout your yard, which will attract birds and squirrels but will also attract unwanted animals. The best option for sharing them with wildlife in your yard is to add them to a birdfeeder or squirrel feeder to hopefully just attract the animals you would like to see more of while not providing easy food for animals you do not want in your yard or garden.

If you are harvesting the seeds for use as food for you and your family, cut the stalks about one foot below the flowerheads. Use the attached stalk to hang the flower upside down in a warm, dry area to allow the seeds to dry for a few weeks. Moisture can cause mold growth or spoil your seeds, so be sure to choose a dry spot for drying your sunflowers.

Once the seeds have dried, remove them from the flower by using a brush to knock them loose or by rubbing two flowerheads together. Lay out parchment paper or baking sheets so that you can spread out the seeds to dry further.

If you plan on using them raw or if you are saving them to plant next year, or saving them to use in your birdfeeder over the next few months, store seeds in mason jars once they are completely dry. If you prefer roasted sunflower seeds, heat your oven to 350 degrees, spread the seeds out on baking sheets, and roast them for 10 to 15 minutes. When they are turning slightly brown, you will know they are done.

To make roasted and salted sunflower seeds, soak the seeds in saltwater overnight, drain them, pat them dry, and then spread them out on baking sheets before roasting them.

How to Use Sunflower Seeds, Roots, Stalks, Leaves, and Petals

You can always plant sunflower seeds just for looks, but if you would like to harvest and use your sunflowers, here are some suggestions you might try.

1. Sunflower roots, petals, and seeds can be used to make herbal teas.
2. Add sunflower seeds to salads or eat alone to benefit from their iodine, vitamin E, iron, potassium, protein, magnesium, vitamin B, and vitamin C.
3. Harvest sunflower seeds to add to birdfeeders to feed wild birds and attract birds to your yard.
4. Steam sunflower leaves for a flavorful side dish.
5. Add sunflower leaves or stalks to salads or stir-fries.
6. Roast the seeds for a healthy snack.
7. Harvest the seeds to make your own sunflower oil.
8. Use the seeds to make sunflower seed butter, which is a nut-free alternative to peanut butter or almond butter.
9. Grind sunflower seeds to make nut-free, gluten-free flour.
10. Make sunflower milk out of the seeds.
11. Use the seeds to make dairy-free sunflower seed cheese. 

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