With the click of a mouse, you instantly have access to a wealth of information. Sometimes this info can be overwhelming to sort through and weed out the good stuff from the not so good.

We wanted to make it easier, with a Step-by-Step-Guide for you to utilize during your search for the right Landscape Design Contractor (i.e. Paver or Synthetic Turf Contractor to install your project.

When you start surfing the internet, you may type in “Landscape Design Company in San Diego,” “Pavers San Diego,” or “Best Paver Company in [Insert your City]”, or “Artificial Grass Installers in [Insert your City],” etc. and you will receive pages upon pages of companies touting their credentials and why you should select them.

We cannot blame the companies for trying to represent themselves in the best possible light, can we? They should be partial to their own company, and this should be expected.

So what are you to do with all this information?

• Who to believe and not believe?
• Do you select a handful of companies and start setting up appointments?
• Should you ask your friends, family, neighbors if they know anyone?
• Should you post something on facebook, asking for referrals?
• Should you go to the BBB and look up accredited businesses in your area?
• Should you go on Angie’s List or Yelp?

What is the best approach?

The short answer is that there isn’t a “best approach.”

The best approach is going to be the one that makes the most sense to you and for your particular situation. You want this decision to make you feel good inside, and allow you to sleep at night without the worry or fear of doubt lingering in the back of your mind.

Our goal is to help you steer-clear of the things that will keep you up tossing and turning with anxiety.

In this post we will provide you with is a solid foundation that will help guide you in your decision making process.

Let’s face it, redoing your driveway, entryway/walkway, pool deck or backyard patio with pavers OR replacing your lawn with synthetic turf is not going to be cheap. You want to make sure you do all your Due Diligence PRIOR, so that you can have peace of mind knowing that you only have to do this project once……check, all done!

Okay, let’s go ahead and get right into the 10 Steps:

Step #1 Make sure the company is licensed by the CSLB

Seems obvious, however, you would be surprised how many unlicensed or improperly licensed companies are out there(we’ll just give you the answer → there are LOTS!)

Go to this link located here → (CSLB LICENSE CHECK) and type in the company’s license number that you are getting an estimate from and verify that they are in fact licensed to install pavers or synthetic turf.

If you are going to get pavers installed, make sure the company has one of the following licenses: C-27, and/or C-61/D06, and/or C12. They MUST have one of these licenses to legally install pavers.

If you are getting artificial grass installed, check for one of these licenses: C-27 and/or C-61/D12. Again, they MUST have one of these licenses to install artificial turf.

Step #2 Proper Insurance: Workers Comp/GL Polices

In order to be licensed with the CSLB(Contractors State License Board) you must be bonded, so if the company passed on Step #1, and have an Active License, then you don’t need to worry about that here, as they are bonded as well.

If the company has employees, which you hope they do, then they need to have a worker’s comp policy to cover the ENTIRE crew doing the work.

Ask for a copy of their Accord Certificate which will have all their insurance details, including the broker’s name and phone number. You might want to call the broker personally to double check their coverage. A 2-minute phone call is well worth it to ensure you and your home are not at risk.

A common tactic seen here is that the Paver or Synthetic Turf Company will provide you with their Accord Certificate and at first glance, you may think everything looks great; they have worker’s comp and general liability insurance. Check, Check, all good here.

Not so fast, this is most likely not the case so be careful here.

Just because the Accord Certificate states that they have workers comp does not mean that they have adequate coverage for their WHOLE Team, who will be working on your property. The certificate is extremely vague and misleading.

Companies will often get the coverage on 1 team-member, with the hope that at a given time only 1 person would likely get hurt so they will be covered for that one person.

With workers comp, companies do not have to be specific with actual names, all the insurance company cares about on their end is what classification the laborer is classified under (roofer, painter, masonry, etc.) which will determine the rate the company is charged. For pavers, the rate is right around 16-18%. So for each $100 that a paver installer is paid on payroll, $16-$18 is paid out to the insurance company.

Yes, you are probably thinking, WOW, that is expensive, and you are absolutely right, however, this is what ensures that you are safe if that installer were to get seriously hurt.

Never assume anything; a quick phone call to the broker can clear this up and provide you will more clarity as to how much coverage the company actually has.

As you can see, the motivation behind having limited coverage or only covering 1 installer, is that the company can save A LOT of money by being unethical and operating illegally.

It is like buying health or auto insurance for 1 person in your family and changing the coverage depending on who gets into an accident or who gets sick. The health and auto industry do not work that way fortunately, however, the Construction World is a little dated and does allow for loop holes like this to exist.

This is happening A LOT, so be careful and take the time to understand your coverage before the project commences.

If they do not have workers comp listed on their license then this should be an immediate red flag as they are stating that they do not have any employees and are simply subcontracting all the work out. You can read a lot more about this in a previous post here.

If they are subcontracting the work out, find out who they are subing the project to and go directly to them. This will save you quite a bit as you eliminate the “middle man fee” who is just orchestrating the deal and adding his or her margin on top.

If you do go the subcontracting route, make sure that the crew in which the work is being subcontracted out to is fully licensed, and carries the proper worker’s comp policy for the ENTIRE crew. Again, never assume.

Step #3 Are their Salespeople Licensed

Not only does the company have to be licensed, but the salespeople who are coming out to your house, also have to be licensed.

You can think of it like a real estate company. The realtor who is selling you the home has to be a licensed real estate agent and he or she is working under a broker who is also licensed. The same concept holds true here in construction.

According to the CSLB (Contractors State License Board), “a home improvement salesperson (HIS) is defined in the law, Section 7152, as a person who is employed by a licensed contractor to solicit, sell, negotiate or execute contracts under which home improvements may be performed, a swimming pool constructed, or home improvement goods or services installed or furnished.”

If you solicit, sell, negotiate or execute home improvement contracts for a licensed contractor outside the contractor’s normal place of business (regardless of the dollar amount of those contracts) you must obtain your HIS with the CSLB.

The only people who would be exempt from obtaining a HIS License is if they are listed as a part of the CSLB’s official personnel records for the contractor’s license. This includes individual contractors, partners, officers of the corporation and responsible managing employees.

To verify whether the salesperson who is going to be coming to your house is licensed, you will first want to look up their Company License # here → (check company license number here) to see if the individual is an owner, partner, officer of the corporation or responsible managing employee of the company which would supercede the HIS License as the individual has passed all background checks and is legally able to solicit, sell, negotiate or execute home improvement contracts.

If the salesperson is NOT listed as the owner, partner, officer of the corporation or responsible managing employee of the company then they MUST obtain their HIS License to be on your property by law. You can verify whether the individual has obtained their HIS License here → (Check HIS License Number Here).

The CSLB enforces this by law for your safety. They want to ensure that whomever steps foot on your property, has been properly cleared of any criminal or any other wrong doings in which you and your family would not want to be associated with.

Make sure the Sales Rep has their HIS License prior to your Free Estimate. Again, you can do a quick HIS License check here → (Check HIS License Number Here).

Step #4 Do they have In-House Crews or Subcontractors?

It is very important to find out exactly which crew you are going to be getting for your job. You will want to verify that particular crews’ credentials. Here is another post written about what goes on behind the scenes that contractors do not want you to know.

A lot of “salespeople” will state that their company uses in-house crews as a sales tactic; however, don’t be mislead. Verify this information yourself with a little research. Most likely you will find that the crew is really a subcontractor.

The worst case scenario is that they are getting their prices way down by utilizing unlicensed illegal workers. This is very prevalent in the Paver and Synthetic Turf industry, especially in Southern California (more specifically, Orange County and San Diego, Ca).

Imagine if one of the laborers were to get hurt on your property who was not covered. The burden and risk reverts back to YOU and your homeowner’s insurance. This can be a very costly mistake.

Do your own background research and remember that the people coming out to your house to provide you with a Free Estimate are “salespeople,” who are extremely good at what they do, which is to “Sell You!”

Step #5 How much EXPERIENCE do they have?

Find out the longevity of the company and more specifically, how long the crew that is going to be doing your installation has been in the business of exclusively installing pavers or synthetic grass. You want an installer that specializes in the trade with at least 10 years of experience.

A company can showcase that they have been in business for 30 or even 100 years, however, if the crew that you are going to be getting on your job has only been installing for 6 months may sway your thought process on that company.

Years of trade experience and the years a company has been established can be very misleading and is something you will want to be sure to investigate in more detail.

A good rule of thumb is to see how long they have been in business and how many jobs they have installed in YOUR particular area (make sure these installs are backed with an installation list that you can verify and keep for your records).

This should demonstrate the current health of the company, which is what you should be interested in. You shouldn’t really be concerned with how great the company was 10 years ago, if they are on their way out the door today or tomorrow.

For instance, if a company has been in business for 10 years and has installed 1000 jobs, you may think that is quite impressive. You will want to dig a little deeper and find out when those installs took place. It is all relative.

Now if you interview another company and they have only been in business 2 years with 500 installations, what does that tell you?

The 10 year old company has done twice the amount of work as the 2 year old company, however, the 2 year old company is growing at a much faster pace and will soon FLY by the 10 year old company as they are installing 2.5 times as many jobs each year.

The question that should come to mind, is what exactly is going on behind the scenes to have one company install 2.5 times the other company. Might lead some to think that the 2 year company is onto something and is definitely doing something right.

It really comes down to gather the information/numbers and painting an accurate big picture of the health of the company today and tomorrow, not 10 years ago.

Step#6 Are their Salespeople Employees or Independent Contractors

As stated in a previous post, disclosing secrets of the trade, you can have sales reps that are independent contractors and it would be 100% legal just as long as the company is set up to operate with an independent contractor business model.

This would mean that the company and sales reps DO NOT hold meetings, they are not assigned appointments, they are not provided with sales tools, etc..

As far as we know, there is not a single paver or artificial grass company that would fall under the above criterion to legally hire independent contractors as salespeople for their team.

This means that the companies are operating illegally and are skirting the tax law(a.k.a. walking on pins and needles with the IRS who will catch them soon, especially with the amount of technology they have at their fingertips).

The simple fact to note is that the paver or turf company that is operating in this illegal fashion is SAVING a lot on payroll expenses and general taxes. Several companies have already had Class Action Lawsuits Filed against them for such illegal operations. Do a quick Google Search and you will find some of them there.

Step #7 Check their Referrals, Testimonials, Online Reviews, etc.

Ask for testimonials, online reviews and referrals. You will want to see a lot of these. If the company does great work, then people will be talking about them online. On the flip side, if they are not doing great work, people will also being talking about them online in forums and chat rooms.

A great thing to do would be to cross reference some of the testimonials by requesting a phone number or address of the people who wrote the “glowing review(s)” so that you  can verify that these were not “doctored” by the company.

Another tip, try doing a Google Search for the company name, the owner(s) name(s) and see what pops up. There are many review sites online that try to expose dishonest contractors that you may want to check out: RipOffReport.com. AngiesList.com, and Yelp.com.

Step#8 Check out their installations in person

Get a substantial list from the company and not just a pre-selected list which unbeknownst to you, includes the company’s friends and family waiting for you to come by so that they can give raving reviews.

Ask them for all the jobs they have completed and then YOU can personally select the ones you want to go see. Try going over the weekend and knocking on the customer’s door to ask them why they chose the company they chose and how everything turned out.

A great follow-up question to ask is whether they would use the company again and is there anything they would have done differently.

You will learn a lot from these customers, assuming they are non-biased customers. The key is to dig a little and they will open up and tell you the real truth as opposed to the sugar coated version. You still may use the company, however, they may have some great tips in which they learned along the installation process that they passed onto you so you can have a better experience the second go-around.

A great thing to note is how many jobs the company has done in a particular area. If they have installed a substantial amount of projects in one area and more specifically your area, they must be doing something right as neighbors talk and share their experiences. If they were doing something wrong they would not be asked back again and again.

Step#9 Find out whether they have project minimums

This is important to know ahead of time so that you do not waste your time setting up an appointment for a job that is out of their scope or is too small, etc. Most companies have a 300-750sqft minimum which is very normal and makes a lot of sense.

A great idea to consider if you do have a small area(less than 300-750sqft) is to see if your neighbors are interested in getting their driveway, patio or lawn redone. That way, the combination of the 2 jobs will meet most companies minimums, and at the same time save you and your neighbor money. The more sqft you do, the less your project will be per sqft.

Step#10a Find out what their average prices & specials are in advance

When you call each company, ASK what their avg. ranges are in terms of price/sqft. Although each paver and synthetic grass project is custom and there are a lot of details which can add or reduce the overall price, the company should be able to provide you with a standard ball-park estimate over the phone for a “typical installation.”

Find out what their specials are and if the prices that were quoted over the phone include the specials or not.

This way you will have a great idea as to what to expect prior to the Salesperson showing up.

Step#10b Finally, please don’t fall for the Salesperson “Closing Tactics”

This is a Big Decision and do not feel pressured to sign the contract on day #1. Take your time. If the salesperson states that they have a special deal going on right now, however, in order to get this special price, you need to sign up today or it is going to go away, just know that this is just NOT true and do not fall for this used car salesman stuff.

If fact, if you feel like you are being sold or feel uncomfortable at any point, then that particular company is probably not the right fit for you.

You want a company that is going to be 100% Transparent and a straight shooter, not one that is going to be artificially inflating the price so that they have room to play games with you.

The Bottom Line

If you follow these 10 Steps as best as you can, you will be well on your way to doing business with a quality Paver or Synthetic Turf Company that prides themselves in doing business with the utmost professionalism and integrity.

Use this as a guide to help weed out the “bad seeds,” and please come back to share how everything turned out. If you have any questions, comments or have any input to add to this list, we would love to hear from you.

Best of Luck with your Estimates & Decision Making Process!

• To continue with Pavers 101: The Ultimate Paver Resource Guide Click Here to Continue Learning or
• To continue with Artificial Grass 101: The Ultimate Synthetic Turf Resource Guide Click Here to Continue Learning

The post How To Find a Reputable Landscape Design Contractor {Step-by-Step Guide} appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Retaining walls are a key element in many types of landscaping designs. Some are just for aesthetic purposes, like creating raised planter borders or defining a space, while others are needed to hold up a hill or slope of a backyard. 

Unlike some landscaping projects, retaining walls should be installed by a professional, with the exception of simple walls like raised garden beds and perimeter boundaries, which are fairly easy for the average homeowner to build. Because many large retaining walls need to be installed with footings, weep holes, drainage, and grading in mind, it’s best to have an experienced contractor and engineer tackle this kind of landscaping project.

Properly built retaining walls can last decades or even centuries, so while having a functional retaining wall is important, you’ll want to make sure it’s cohesive with your overall landscape design, as you’ll be looking at it for a long time. Fortunately, when it comes to retaining walls there are endless options with materials like paving stones, concrete, wood, metal, stucco, boulders, blocks, bricks, and river rocks. Below, we cover 21 front yard retaining wall landscaping ideas, which also work in backyards and outdoor living areas. Consider these ideas for your property, whether you’re in Bonsall, El Cajon, or Chula Vista. We’re familar with working with all of San Diego’s challenging topography and are ready to help with your retaining wall design and installation.

Types of Retaining Walls

Natural Stone

Natural stone retaining walls are perfect because they easily blend into the natural surroundings of a backyard and don’t distract from attractive landscapes like flowers, lush plants, and trees. Additionally, there are many choices of natural stones to pick from — some popular variations include fieldstones and flagstones, sedimentary rocks that can be easily stacked to create a stacked stone retaining wall. 

Boulder Retaining Wall

Make a statement with your retaining wall by using large boulders stacked on top of each other to hold back the soil and prevent erosion. Boulder retaining walls should be installed by a professional with the proper landscaping equipment, as moving individual boulders from point A to point B and stacking them is a difficult task.

Timber Retaining Wall

Like natural stone retaining walls, there are various options for timber retaining walls. Some of these include natural timbers consisting of 6″x6″ or 8″x8″ lumber stacked on top of each other, timbers combined with railroad ties, and post and panel retaining walls where the posts are secured into a concrete base. Wood retaining walls can be a good option for a rustic or more natural landscape look.

Gabion Retaining Wall

Gabion retaining walls are essentially cages or galvanized steel enclosures filled with rocks, stones, or bricks. Gabion walls are some of the easiest DIY projects and can be a good way to repurpose small rocks and stones that would otherwise be difficult to stack. Gabion baskets are typically low maintenance, and you won’t have to worry about cracks that can occur with brick and concrete walls.

Modern Poured Concrete Walls

Poured concrete walls can be some of the cleanest-looking retaining walls, especially with white concrete, and are often used for a modern landscaping look. Not only do poured concrete retaining walls have a beautiful aesthetic, but they’re also especially strong and versatile. Poured concrete can be any color and can be textured or have objects added to them.

Retaining Walls for Gardening

Living Retaining Wall

A living retaining wall or vertical garden can be an amazing way to add to the greenery of your outdoor space while absorbing noise and increasing the privacy of your yard. Living retaining walls are more complex to build, as they must be strong enough to hold back the landscape soil that the plants will reside in. Living retaining walls don’t just need to be for decorative plants; they can also be used for herbs and vegetables.

Raised Flower or Garden Beds

Much like creating an island flower bed, you can also use retaining walls to hold the soil for raised garden beds or borders along your fence line. Some designs may call for professional retaining wall installation, but this is one that many homeowners may be able to accomplish on their own.

Turn a Slope Into a Garden

Sloping yards may seem unusable, but garden retaining walls can completely change that. You can transform sloping land into a terraced backyard with different levels for gardens. Each terrace level can be used to separate various kinds of vegetables and fruits based on which variations grow well together.

Highlight a Tree

If you have a favorite tree in your backyard, highlight it by creating a small retaining wall around the perimeter of your tree and placing some landscape lighting around it. This kind of retaining wall can also double as a flower bed or simply section off exposed roots of the tree to protect them and prevent people from tripping on them.

Structural Retaining Walls

Use a Retaining Wall to Install a Fence

Fences can be added on top of, in front of, or behind a retaining wall. Installing a fence in combination with your retaining wall is a great way to add to the privacy of your outdoor space as well as the security of it. It’s important to consider if your retaining wall can support the fence. How strong your retaining wall is will determine if you add a fence using the surface mounting method, face mounting, embedding, or a post-in system.

Home Entry Retaining Wall

Retaining walls can also be combined with staircases to transition levels from one area of your backyard to another. This terraced look is a popular choice for leading from a backyard pool up to a home’s entry. Not only is it practical for separating levels from a pool space, but it’s also visually appealing and creates a leading line to your home.

Build or Stabilize a Slope

This is the most common use for a retaining wall. If you are concerned about erosion and runoff on a slope, retaining wall installation may be the answer to your problem. But don’t let your creativity stop there: Since you likely need to build a barrier wall anyway, incorporate it into your overall hardscape design and expand its function by creating usable space on the freestanding side of the wall.

Turn a Slope Into a Flat Grass Area

Another way you can use retaining walls with the intention of adding dirt instead of taking it away is to create a flat lawn where there was once a slope. In this instance, you would install your wall at the edge of your future lawn, and then build up the lower part of the slope by filling it in with dirt. Once you have created a level area, you can plant your lawn or have low-maintenance, artificial grass installed.

Retain a Water Feature

You can make your retaining wall an attractive focal point by adding a water feature, such as a waterfall, wall fountain, or pond. This also allows you to save space by combining two landscaping features in the same footprint, so you can get the wall you need and the waterfall you want all in the same space.

Add Stairs

A collection of front yard retaining wall landscaping ideas would not be complete without the suggestion of installing retaining walls to add attractive stairs leading to your main entry. Of course, you can also use retaining walls to include stairs in your backyard leading to outdoor living areas, gardens, or different levels of a multi-level yard.

Retaining Walls for Outdoor Living and Entertainment

Outdoor Kitchen

Make your retaining wall especially functional by merging it with your outdoor kitchen. You can build your outdoor kitchen directly into the retaining wall as one cohesive design or use the space directly behind your outdoor kitchen’s countertops to grow herbs like rosemary, thyme, oregano, and basil to easily use when cooking.

Raised Patio

Aside from creating planting beds, we have mostly discussed how to use retaining walls to transform sloping property into usable space. But even flat land can be improved with the use of retaining walls. For example, you can increase visual interest by using a retaining wall to create a raised area for a patio or outdoor kitchen.

Sunken Patio

Similar to a raised patio, retaining walls can be used to create a sunken patio space. A sunken patio works well when surrounded by natural stone, and plants can create a hidden garden feel. Complete your sunken patio with an outdoor fireplace and some string lighting for added coziness.

Sitting Wall Around Your Fire Pit or Patio

If you plan to use a low retaining wall to carve out an area for a fire pit or patio, consider using the retaining wall for seating as well. A short wall can be designed to also be used as a bench. If your slope requires a taller wall, consider installing a bench in front of it so that the upper part of the wall can act as a backrest. This is an easy way to increase seating options for outdoor living areas.

Combine a Retaining Wall with a Fire Feature

Another space-saving retaining wall idea is to include a fire feature in your wall design. If the design of the wall allows, you may be able to build an outdoor fireplace into the wall. If the wall is short, you may be able to incorporate a fire feature on top of the wall. 

Define Outdoor Living Areas in Your Backyard

As you design the hardscape for your backyard, consider using retaining walls to define spaces within your yard. This might be to create some more intimate seating areas or to separate your vegetable garden area from your outdoor living areas.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the benefits of retaining walls?

Retaining walls are often used to increase stability and improve the infrastructure of your property. When providing this function, some of the benefits include erosion control, managing runoff and preventing flooding, and making your property safer by stabilizing hillsides and slopes. They can also be used to enhance curb appeal, increase usable space by creating terraces or flat areas for lawns or outdoor living, and beautifying your outdoor spaces.

What is the cheapest type of retaining wall?

The cost of a retaining wall varies greatly depending on the type of materials used to build it. Poured concrete and concrete blocks are typically some of the cheapest types of retaining walls, as poured concrete starts around $4 per square foot and concrete blocks can cost as low as $2.50.

What is the easiest retaining wall to build?

Short walls under three feet tall are usually the easiest retaining walls to build and the most friendly for DIY projects. Low retaining walls are best used for raised flower beds or sectioning off areas of your yard. Additionally, masonry blocks and concrete blocks are some of the easiest materials to use when building a retaining wall.

Can I build my own retaining wall?

Yes. Short retaining walls (under three feet) can be DIY-friendly projects. However, if a larger, more complex wall is being built or it is used to hold up a hillside, you should seek out a professional. Retaining walls can be difficult to install and a professional can help you avoid costly mistakes and future repairs. 

How high can a retaining wall be?

Consult your local building codes and homeowners association for guidelines on retaining wall height. These may have restrictions on how high your retaining wall can be, as well as if permits will be required to build one. 

Retaining walls are not only functional, but they can also improve the overall appearance of your backyard and, if designed and installed properly, can last for years to come. Install-It-Direct is here to help you with your retainer wall needs and offers professional landscape design services to help you get the look you want done right. 

Beautify Your Landscaping with a Retaining Wall Built by Install-It-Direct

Install-It-Direct is a landscape design company specializing in creating beautiful outdoor living spaces using pavers, artificial grass, outdoor lighting, fire features, and water features. Our team of professional designers and installers have years of experience with retaining wall design and building retaining walls. Contact us today for a free estimate and consultation.

(Original publish date: 5/4/22 | Refresh date: 4/5/24)

The post Retaining Wall Ideas for All Front Yard Landscaping Designs appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

So for all the cases when the pee areas have been neglected and/or untreated for a long period of time for one reason or another, the question becomes… how to get old urine smells out of carpet or artificial turf?

A common belief is that you should increase the concentration of whatever urine smell eliminator product you are using so as to make it more powerful. You will see products that come in 5X, 10X, 15X, 20X concentrate and you may think that if you dilute the formula with less water that it will perform better. Or perhaps you may think that you can increase the amount of product you have by diluting it more.

Both of these assumptions are incorrect. The X in 10X or 20X concentrate is not related to the CFU (colony forming unit or the concentration of microorganisms) it is related to the number of preservatives. For example, 10X means that there are enough preservatives in the 10X so that once you dilute it to 1X, it is ready to use. Again, it has nothing to do with the concentration of the product and you will always use the product with the same exact 1X dilution ratio. So for a 10X concentration, you will dilute it in the following ratio: 1 part product to 9 parts water.

Let’s say you were to over dilute a 10X product because you wanted to create more so you can get more uses out of it. So for a 10X product, you decided to mix 1 part concentrate to 19 parts water as if it was a 20X concentrate. What will happen when you do this is that the product will then become unprotected as the preservative ratio is no longer correct and therefore will not perform as intended.

On the flip side, let’s say you took the same 10X formula and only diluted it with 3 parts water because you think this will make it more powerful and work better. The opposite will happen in this case. The product will now contain too many preservatives and will not perform as it should due to the fact that the microbes will not activate.

There is even a 3rd scenario that people often try. They will dilute the product appropriately, but then they will continue to spray and spray and spray an affected area too much. When you overdose an area at a certain point it won’t make a difference. The microbes would then be competing for the ammonia/odor. All you are doing is wasting the product at this point.

If a Product Has the Same X Rating or Higher Does That Mean the Product Is the Same or Better?

No, as stated above, the number preceding the X is in relation to the preservatives and tells you specifically how to dilute the formula into a shelf-stable, ready to use product. You will want to also understand the microbial concentration, surfactants, etc. as these are important as well, but just because two products state that they are a 10X concentrate does not mean they both contain the same CFU (microbial concentrations), genus, strain count, and/or strain combinations. Also, just because a product says it is a 20X concentrate does not have any bearing on whether it is better or not.

Not all microbial strains are equal and it is very important to ensure that you are using the appropriate strains that will address your urine odor problem. There are in fact specific strains that are scientifically proven to tackle urine odor of which we recommend Urine Zero for all these reasons.

For instance, Urine Zero contains over 3 trillion CFU’s/gallon and other “competitor” products are in millions for a 10X 1-gallon concentrate. That’s a significant difference in microbes. Urine Zero also contains more strains than most of the products on the market as well. This just further proves that 10X has nothing to do with the actual microbes or quality of the product and everything to do with the preservatives which will inform you how to dilute the product properly.

So What’s the Best Way to Remove Old Urine Smells?

For older and/or stubborn odors you will want to first make sure you mix the concentrate prior to diluting and then dilute the formula accordingly:

• 10X = 1 part product to 9 parts water
• 15X = 1 part product to 14 parts water
• 20X = 1 part product to 19 parts water

When you are treating an area outside like artificial grass, you will want to apply the product in the evening time when the sun goes down so as to prevent the product from evaporating. The microbes need moisture and sun/heat will render them inactive. You will then want to thoroughly saturate the affected area(s) so that the product comes in contact with ALL urine odor areas, including the underlayments(i.e. class II base, DG, etc.). Since it is an area that has been left untreated for a long time you will most likely need to apply multiple applications in the same exact fashion: in the evening when the sun goes down making sure to saturate all affected areas completely. We recommend using a 1-gallon pump sprayer for outside use so that you can ensure the proper dilution ratio and you can thoroughly saturate the affected area(s).

If you are treating a carpet, you can treat the area at any time during the day since the sun shouldn’t affect it, assuming the problem area isn’t in an area with direct sunlight. If that is the case, you will want to draw the curtains/shades or wait until the sun is no longer present. You will then make sure to saturate the entire area that has been affected including the carpet backing and padding. Again, the product must come in contact with ALL urine odor areas. Allow the product to remain on the problem area for at least 15 minutes up to 24 hours. You can then blot or vacuum with a wet-vac to remove the residual liquid and then allow the area to dry naturally/completely before use.

What’s the Best Urine Smell Remover Product for Really Old Odors?

There are many factors to look for but the main thing to understand is that you need to be using the correct microbial blend that specifically targets the ammonia in the urine. There a pages and pages of products on Amazon that all claim to rid the urine odor, however, after 100’s of in-house lab tests that simply isn’t the case. Most of them simply contain fragrances + odor counteractants which only mask the unwanted odors for a short period of time and once the fragrance is gone, the odor is back. Others only contain enzymes that do absolutely nothing to solve your odor problem. Enzymes are not living organisms and will not consume the odor-causing bacteria, they will only aid is breaking down the organic matter, but do nothing to address the odor issue.

In our tests as seen here, we also found that many of the top products on Amazon do in fact contain odor counteractants + microbes, however, the particular strains chosen by these companies were proven to be not all that effective. Meaning, the microbial strain + combinations used in the products were not correct and therefore they are not able to effectively do their job at ridding the ammonia (urine odor) completely.

Urine Zero is different because it does contain fragrance + counteractant but the magic is contained in the specific microbial strains selected to consume and eliminate pet odors. Meaning, the odor counteractant will immediately subdue the odor while the microbes begin working behind the scenes to eradicate the problem. So the product has immediate as well as long-lasting results.

The post How to Get OLD Dog Urine Smell out of Carpet or Artificial Turf? appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Another pet odor removal question that we receive quite often is in relation to “other” pet odors, such as feces, vomit, drool, and even skunk odor when their pets get sprayed.

There is good news as the same product that can tackle the awful urine smell when your pets use your indoor or outdoor living spaces as their bathroom, can also handle ALL odors related to organic matter which include: feces, vomit, drool, skunk odors and more.

Urine Zero’s powerful formulation is comprised of over 3 trillion safe microbes that immediately go to work on your problem areas, devouring their food source(s), which happens to be your odor problem. So it’s a win-win. The microbes are happy to enjoy the newly discovered food source, and you are extremely happy to have the odor disappear.

One of the extraordinary things about Urine Zero is that the microbes have the unique ability to adapt their metabolic makeup to their environment as their food source changes. The microbes will continue to evolve until all energy sources have been depleted, therefore eliminating all sources of pet odor(s).

For example, they will begin tackling the urine odor until that food source is eradicated, then they will move onto their next organic matter food source: feces, then vomit, etc. They will continue this process of exponentially reproducing until there isn’t any more food to be consumed.

The ability of the microbes to adapt and change their metabolic makeup as their environment changes are quite remarkable when you think about which is one of the many reasons that make Urine Zero’s formula highly sought after for its ability to be so versatile.

Below is a chart that demonstrates how Urine Zero reacts when multiple food sources are present.

To learn more and/or order Urine Zero, you can do so here: Buy Urine Zero

Related Reading:

• What is the Best Carpet Cleaner for Pets?
• How to Get Rid of the Urine Smell From Artificial Grass?
• How to Remove Urine Smell from arpet?

The post Pet Odor Eliminator: How to Get Rid of Pet Odors? appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Meaning, we must be a good fit for you and you must be a good fit for us.

In our experience, one-sided relationships have never turned out well for either party and we would like to take a moment to address all the reasons that we would not be a good fit for you so that you don’t waste your time interviewing us as a potential candidate for your project and can quickly move on to another company that would be a great fit for you and your installation.

Here are 5 reasons that would disqualify IID from your consideration list:

1. Price: If achieving the lowest possible price is important to you, then IID would not be a good fit for your project.

We are definitely NOT going to be the cheapest. That’s not what we are all about. Our focus is quality, customer happiness, and building a long-lasting healthy company that will be here to assist you in the future (which can’t occur when you’re the cheapest-priced company). We are also not going to be the most expensive. We are typically in the upper-middle range.

Here are a few ways you can achieve a cheaper price from a competitor:

1. They do not have the same elite crews (which we know they don’t because they are exclusively on our team).

2. They do not have an experienced designer & dedicated project manager who will oversee your project. Your personal design consultant will continue to be involved throughout your project, however, you will also have a dedicated project manager who will be assisting you from start to finish, ensuring that your installation gets handled with the care and attention it deserves.

3. They are not providing the same scope (i.e. 9.5″ – 11.5″ excavation depths, 4-6″ of class II road base, sealer, Belgard upgrade, geotextile fiber, etc.). Our estimates are the most detailed, thorough, and transparent estimates out there. We have seen everyone else’s estimates as our clients send them to us all the time wanting us to match a competitor’s lower price(which we won’t do, but we have found lots of discrepancies where the client thought they were comparing similar bids, however, upon closer inspection, they were completely different: apples to oranges).

We do not hide anything so you should be able to clearly see what our estimate includes and then cross-reference that to the competitors which is most likely less transparent. If that is the case, then you will want to request that the other company detail exactly what you are paying for. Most do not, which is why we mention this here.

4. They are not operating 100% legally according to the CSLB, ASGI, IRS, EDD, City Codes or BBB (and we know that 99% of the companies out there are not operating legally or care to follow City Codes).

5. They don’t have an in-house customer service team who are available to assist in any way they can to ensure your project gets installed as smoothly as possible.

• Phone: 858-925-3000
• Email: [email protected]

6. They don’t have an in-house quality control team who is keeping close tabs on each project, utilizing a quality control checklist to ensure that each job is installed correctly the 1ST time, in accordance with ICPI / ASGI Guidelines and all City Codes.

7. They don’t have in-house landscape designers who are professionally trained in landscape design/architecture. Most of the salespeople who will provide you with an estimate and design for your project are not professional landscape designers and have littler to no training whatsoever in proper design. I presume you only want to install your project once, so it is crucial to make sure it has been well thought out and professionally designed the first time.

8. They don’t have an in-house repair & maintenance team to handle any issues that should occur AFTER your installation is complete. The true test of a company will be revealed once the project is complete and the money has been collected in full. Repairs & maintenance are not fun, but they are inevitable with any custom project. The good news is that we are well prepared to take care of you ASAP should a repair or maintenance concern arise. You won’t be tossed in a queue for months wondering if your project is ever going to get the attention it deserves so you can get back to enjoying your outdoor living space. It is not about the sale, it is about how the company responds after all money has been collected. We are a company built to last and will never turn our back on anyone. We continue to receive calls on a weekly basis from clients who have failed installs that are seeking help because the company they originally used is either no longer in business or is neglecting to properly take care of them.

9. They simply aren’t transparent with their pricing or business operations which could lead to many undisclosed issues down the road.

Those are just 9 of the ways that someone can undercut our prices.

You can’t get everything listed above AND have the lowest price, it just cannot be done. It’s like wanting a Tesla Model X for the price of a Kia Telluride. Although that is a nice thought/idea, it just does not work that way as you well know. We are certainly not implying that we are a Tesla, we are simply stating that you can’t have all the features and benefits we have outlined AND also expect to achieve the lowest price. In order to achieve that cheaper price, you are, as a result not getting the same outcome. If you are okay with a different experience and outcome, then a cheaper-priced company is what we would recommend.

IID has a level of integrity and professionalism that we will always abide by and we will never sacrifice quality or our unmatched customer service just to reduce our price…never!

HOW we do it:

We know that in order to successfully take care of our clients we must first take care of our team. When you take care of your people, you are able to attract the best. Without a healthy and happy team environment, that is aligned with our passion, we cannot effectively deliver on our mission: to assist as many people as we can to transform their outdoor living areas into a space they can be proud of and one they excited to come home to each day.

WHY we do what we do:

We believe that improving your outdoor living space doesn’t have to be a painful experience.

• The painful process of finding the right contractor
• The painful installation experience
• The pain of the overall cost

By breaking down all the variables that are responsible for driving the price higher and higher and truly understanding how to effectively eliminate all the unnecessary overhead coupled with a crystal clear vision on how to attract and retain the best people, we have uncovered the simple yet brilliant recipe for success which applies for not only the construction industry but any business.

Providing extraordinary quality and customer service at the best possible value should be attainable for everyone where they don’t have to sacrifice one for another.  We figured out how to make this happen, which is the driving force as to what gets us up in the morning, knowing that we are able to change the mindset that people have about the construction industry, taking a once painful experience into a positive rewarding one.

2. Price: yep, it made the list twice, which means if you value a low price more than the process involved to run a healthy & happy company, then IID would not be a good fit for your project.

If we reduce our price, that means we are taking it from somewhere: the crew, the designer, the project manager, the company, the manufacturer (by using used, scapes, or defective material which can be purchased at a discount).

Here are a few questions to consider:

Where should we take the money from?

The crew? The designer? The project manager? The company? The manufacturer?

Think about this scenario…what if you went into work tomorrow and your boss told you that they were going to pay you 30% less money for an upcoming project, however, they expect you to perform at your very best as always. How would you respond or feel about that?

I presume you wouldn’t be too happy about it and would be very upset at your boss for putting you in that position, therefore, creating an unhappy work environment that wouldn’t be conducive to great results.

We just ask that you think about this scenario the next time you ask for a discount as that discounted money is coming from somewhere.

By reducing our price for a customer we are actually doing that customer a disservice in the long-run for their perceived short-term gain and happiness. We are also doing all our previous customers a disservice as well as any future customers.

With many years of fine-tuning our system(15 to be exact), we have figured out what price we need to have to sustain a healthy & happy company which is the price we present. By lowering our price for a short term gain for that particular customer we are hurting everyone else including that customer at the same time. In short, this model of the low price leader will fail (proven fact) and in failing we are not going to be able to assist other customers and transform their properties and we are not going to be able to assist the very customer who got the “reduced price” in the future because we will be out of business.

Just a little transaction of lowering our price can have HUGE ramifications, that being a failed company, which means our crews are out of work, all of us on the team right now are out of jobs, and all of our customers(previous and future) suffer as well too as a result since we can no longer assist them.

3. Shortcuts: If you are not interested in abiding by city codes/permits, your HOA guidelines, and/or our company policies, then IID would not be a good fit for your project.

There are lots of companies that will ignore city codes/permits, HOA guidelines, etc., however, we are not one of those companies. We want to do everything we can to ensure you have a lasting installation which means doing everything correctly the first time without shortcuts.

4. ASAP: If you are in a rush to get your project installed and need us to side-step our policies/procedures, your HOA or City guidelines in order to achieve your expedited request, then IID would not be a good fit for your project.

I think you can start to recognize a theme here. Our motto is to INSTALL-IT-CORRECT the 1st time and we will take as much time that is necessary to ensure this happens so if you are in a rush, then please consider another company for your project.

5. Site Management + Communication = crucial for a successful relationship and project:

1. Site Management: If you are planning on remaining at home and/or on-site for the lion’s share of the project, that is great and we welcome it, we just ask that you refrain from interfering with the flow and operations by respecting our process and allow us to execute the agreed-upon plan.
2. Communication: If you have any questions, concerns, comments or anything that needs to be addressed, we ask that you please communicate with our team directly as soon as the issue/concern presents itself. We ask that you come to our team first as opposed to going online to mediums like Yelp, Google, etc. to communicate before our team has been notified of the issue/concern and has had a chance to properly address it. Our goal is to ensure this is a great experience for everyone involved from start to finish and in order for that to happen successfully, communication is a mandatory component. Here are a few ways to reach our team so we can assist and address any questions/concerns you may have immediately as they arise:
   1. You can call, email or text your design consultant.
   2. You can call, email or text your project manager.
   3. You can call, email or text our customer service department: 858-925-3000, [email protected].
   4. You can call or email our office: 858-925-3000, [email protected].

If any of the above apply to you, then IID would not be a good fit for your project and we recommend that you choose another company for your installation.

If these do not apply to you, then we cannot wait to meet you and see how we can work together as a team to achieve your outdoor living vision.

The post 5 Reasons You Should NOT Choose IID for Your Installation appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Considering outdoor fireplace design elements is similar to considering fireplace ideas for an indoor sitting room, living room, family room, or dining room. For example, in interior design, looking at the paint colors, room design, and overall color scheme will help you determine the best style and materials for the fireplace mantel, firebox, and fireplace surround. Inside, you will likely have a built-in fireplace, but for outdoor living room ideas, you could have either a built-in or freestanding fire feature. You can choose a floor-to-ceiling design, a corner fireplace, or anything that works well with the space.

A beautiful fireplace paired with eye-catching armchairs, coffee table, and maybe even a chandelier creates a welcoming, cozy space for entertaining or enjoying time with your family, partner, or just a good book.

If you are more interested in an open space for outdoor dinner parties, fireplaces incorporated into the overall design of outdoor kitchens can offer this.

Let’s take a look at some design ideas to see which might be the best choice for your backyard.

Classic outdoor fireplace designs

As we look at types of custom fireplaces, traditional fireplace designs are really the place to start. These designs, which will include stone, stacked stone, brick, and pavers, are well suited for most architectural styles, which makes them among the most popular choices for a patio kitchen remodel or outdoor living space makeover.

Rustic outdoor fireplace designs

If your home’s architecture or your home décor leans towards more rustic features and materials, a rustic patio fireplace is likely the right choice for you. This might mean enjoying a roaring fire in a red brick fireplace, or roasting marshmallows in a stone fireplace that matches the stone wall bordering your outdoor living area.

Modern outdoor fireplace designs

Modern fireplace ideas are often best suited for homeowners who prefer minimalist designs and clean lines. A white fireplace or concrete fireplace might be the right choice here, particularly if your home’s architecture is markedly modern or contemporary. While a limestone fireplace or marble fireplace certainly falls under classic design as well, these materials also have a place in modern and contemporary fireplace design.

Southwestern outdoor fireplace designs

Southwestern fireplace ideas are often where Southern California homeowners are going to find the right fit for Spanish, Spanish Colonial, and Spanish Revival architecture. For example, for folks who have a Spanish, Southwestern, or Mediterranean-style home, a tile fireplace with a wood mantel might be the perfect choice. Homes with these architectural styles also lend themselves well to outdoor fireplace design using paving stones, natural stone, clay, or concrete.

To help the creation of your next backyard fireplace, we have put together a number of ideas to inspire you. Use the filters below to help you find that perfect outdoor fireplace.

Instructions: Select the filters below to browse through different features and styles. To view the full image, click on the image itself.

This stone traditional fireplace with built in wood boxes will keep your patio warm.

Source: Angelus

Enjoy movies around the fire with a fireplace under a canopy.

Source: Belgard

Entertain guests around a freestanding stone outdoor fireplace.

Source: Belgard

Stay sheltered and toasty next to a stone cut fireplace.

Source: Belgard

Timeworn pavers accent the red brick fireplace for a classic look.

Source: Belgard

Brick with cut stone can make any outdoor area look elegant.

Source: Belgard

The matching stone pavers create a clean consistent look for this fireplace.

Source: Belgard

Simple with a mediterranean design create a relaxing area for any home.

Source: ZFREEDMAN Landscape Architecture, Inc

Water features balance the heat from the fireplace in this design.

Source: Belgard

The varying sizes in stone come together for a cozy fireplace.

Source: Belgard

The wood and clean modern fireplace create a unique style.

Source: Belgard

Stainless steel works well surrounded by stone.

Source: Belgard

Simple and modern stone fireplace for warmth in the fresh air.

Source: Belgard

Make the fireplace the focal point of your outdoor living space.

Source: Belgard

A timeless stacked stone design will catch anyone's attention.

Source: Belgard

Stacked stone fireplace circled with stone walls for a secluded relaxation area.

Source: Belgard

Modern and southwestern styles pop with color.

Source: Bianchi Design

For a rustic look, combine wood features with a stone fireplace.

Source: Chipper Hatter

This fireplace with wood boxes and a built in grill are perfect for entertaining.

Source: Copper Creek Landscaping, Inc.

Consider a southwestern look for patios with large tiles.

Source: Grace Design Associates

A timeless fireplace design with water features work well together.

Source: Install-It-Direct

Classic stone traditional fireplace design.

Source: Install-It-Direct

A mediterranean style with natural stone framing the firebox.

Source: J'Nell Bryson Landscape Architecture

The white pillars and wood pergola blend well with this stone traditional fireplace.

Source: LandPlan's Landscaping

Keep yourself warm next to a modern firebox surrounded by stone.

Source: Landscaping Network

Beautiful stone frames the firebox in this outdoor fireplace.

Source: Landscaping Network

Keep things modern and sleek with wood and concrete.

Source: Landscaping Network

Gather around a timeless cobblestone fireplace design.

Source: Michelle Derviss Landscape Design

The southwestern style brings out the beauty of both the fireplace and pizza oven.

Source: Orco

Spice things up with a design lining the inside of your outdoor fireplace.

Source: Orco

Traditional fireplace and pizza oven style with a compact layout.

Source: Paradise Restored

The varying elements contrast each other well in this contemporary design.

Source: Shuler Architects

Keep things classic with a brick fireplace for your patio area.

Source: Sport Nobles Construction

Smooth walls complement a stone fireplace perfectly.

Source: Stout Design Build

Natural large stone pulls together this rustic design.

Source: Urban Design Associates LTD

The extended chimney and timeless style is the main focus of this outdoor living space.

Source: Walnut Hill Landscape Company

The stacked stones and wood mantle provide a charming aesthetic.

Source: Walnut Hill Landscape Company

A stone traditional fireplace covered under an entertainment space.

Source: Belgard

Traditional freestanding fireplace with a flower stone design.

Source: Belgard

This stunning worn brick design fits well with the dark stained wood.

Source: Belgard

The surrounding pergolas tie this outdoor fireplace area together nicely.

Source: Belgard

A short stone traditional fireplace design.

Source: Belgard

This stone traditional wall fireplace is elegant with the smooth wall finish above.

Source: Belgard

This modern stone fireplace is perfect for any patio.

Source: Belgard

The creative blue pavers accent the freesanding stone fireplace.

Source: Belgard

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the most common fireplace materials?

Common materials used for outdoor fireplaces include natural stone, pavers, clay, brick, stucco, tile, and concrete. Most of the fireplace design ideas you will see on this site will be made from pavers, stone, or bricks.

How much does an outdoor fireplace cost?

Patio fireplace costs depend largely on the style, size, and materials you choose. The cost will also depend on whether you do this as a DIY project or have it installed professionally. The cost can range from $1,500 to more than $20,000. You can expect to likely pay between $9,000 and $20,000 for the design and installation of a custom outdoor fireplace.

Should I build an outdoor fireplace myself?

This is definitely an option. If you are somewhat handy, there are companies that sell patio fireplace kits that you can build yourself. This can also be a good option for homeowners who are working with a limited project budget. If you are looking for a custom outdoor fireplace, enlisting the help of a professional is the best way to ensure a safer, attractive, well-designed fire feature.

What are the most popular types of outdoor fireplaces in 2024?

While some homeowners still prefer a wood-burning fireplace, the trend is towards choosing a gas fireplace or electric fireplace as a focal point for outdoor living spaces or to create a cozy, inviting ambiance.

Let Install-It-Direct build your new outdoor fireplace

Install-It-Direct has years of experience designing and installing outdoor kitchens, paver patios, water features, artificial grass, outdoor lighting, fire pits, patio fireplaces, and everything else you might need to create functional, inviting, beautiful outdoor living spaces.

Contact us today for a free estimate for your outdoor fireplace and any other landscape design and installation needs you have.

(Original publish date: 4/21/22 | Refresh date: 3/19/24)

The post Outdoor Fireplace Ideas for Your Backyard appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Thoughtful landscaping design can transform your outdoor living space and how you use your home. If you want a picturesque space to entertain friends and family that is easy to maintain, look no further than Install-It-Direct. Our expert landscapers can help you create the outdoor oasis of your dreams. 

What Does “Luxury Landscaping” Mean?

You may wonder what distinguishes “luxury landscaping” from a typical backyard. The luxury lies mainly in the details. There is no set formula for luxury landscape design, as each design will be tailored to each property’s architecture and elements. 

Some basic principles of luxury landscape design include using quality landscape materials, maintaining a well-manicured space, and focusing on overall cohesion. Luxury landscaping creates harmony between the home’s architecture and outdoor space, so the landscaping blends seamlessly with the home. Adding unique details like landscape lighting or water features can elevate the space. 

Redesigning Your Home Landscape? Top Things to Consider: 

Style 

When it comes to your yard, your personal style will guide the design. Consider what landscaping elements you like. Do you prefer traditional or contemporary landscaping design? What hardscaping features will you most enjoy?

Function and lifestyle 

How do you envision using your outdoor area? If you love hosting dinner parties, you may want to install an outdoor kitchen or BBQ island to entertain guests. You may want a large lawn or artificial grass to provide space to run and play if you have young kids or pets. 

Location and climate 

Location and climate are significant factors to consider when designing your luxury landscaping. If you live in an area prone to droughts, consider including drought-tolerant ground cover. If you live on a hill or in an area that tends to flood, adding retaining walls into your design can help maintain your landscaping long-term. 

Budget 

Your budget will influence the scope of your landscaping project. Hiring a full-service landscaping company like Install-It-Direct can ensure your project is finished on time and within budget. 

Luxury Landscaping Design Ideas for Your Front Yard 

The options for luxury landscaping ideas are boundless, and having an aesthetic front yard is a great way to increase your home’s curb appeal. Paver designs are a practical way to add style and color to the patios or driveway of your home. A walkway through a garden or beautiful greenery leading up to a front porch can create an inviting entryway into your space. 

Luxury Landscaping Design Ideas for Your Backyard 

Regarding luxury landscaping ideas for your backyard, a custom patio can provide a beautiful, durable, low-maintenance surface to enjoy your yard. Privacy hedges can add beauty, while creating a peaceful space secluded from neighbors. Take your backyard to the next level by installing a fire pit or pergola where guests can gather and enjoy each other’s company. 

How Much Does a Landscaping Service Cost? 

Landscaping service costs vary greatly depending on your home’s location, the size of your outdoor space, the type of landscaping, and the scope of your project. Landscaping services might cost anywhere from $2,600 to $13,700—the average landscaping project in 2024 costs $8,150. 

Let Install-It-Direct Transform Your Outdoor Spaces 

A beautiful outdoor space not only elevates the visual appeal of your home but can also increase your enjoyment of your outdoor area. Our experts at Install-It-Direct have 25+ years of experience and can design the perfect yard for your lifestyle. Get a free estimate to create the outdoor space of your dreams. 

The post Luxury Landscaping Design Ideas | Install-It-Direct appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

• 35 Small Backyard Ideas 
• Additional Small Backyard Ideas
• Frequently Asked Questions

Not all of us have that coveted big backyard space. But a small backyard is still a backyard and there’s a lot you can do from a design standpoint to create a fun and functional space that doubles as an outdoor sanctuary. Below, we cover 35 small backyard ideas that can help you make a landscaping statement. 

1. Lay Pavers and Decking Diagonally 

Diagonal paths create the illusion of a space being larger than it really is and is a landscape best practice. Instead of a shorter, straight walkway, allow it to cut the yard diagonally or wind around, if space permits. 

Alternatively, lay pavers or decking in a diagonal pattern on the walkway or patio as this will elongate the space. Planks can be laid diagonally across a square deck versus horizontally or vertically. Incorporating stepping stones in addition to pavers and decking will help draw the eye down the walkway. 

2. Break Space Up With Levels

A multi-level backyard creates depth and can break things up visually. Levels additionally allow different spaces to serve different purposes. This might look like a slightly elevated or sunken patio, a large, raised planter or container garden, or a dining space with a shrubbery border to transition to a small upper yard. 

3. Incorporate Different Surroundings

This technique has been used in Japanese gardens for centuries. If you’re fortunate to have a scenic view beyond the borders of your yard, take advantage of it. 

Perhaps you live on a canyon in San Diego that is full of native plants that you can see from your yard. Incorporate similar plants into your landscape design to complement what is happening in the canyon for a more cohesive look and to make your backyard appear as if it’s blending into the surrounding landscape.

4. Pick Statement Greenery

Maybe you don’t have a lot to work with from a landscaping perspective and only have a small patio. Use this opportunity to purchase smart furniture and compliment it with a statement greenery piece like a tropical plant with big leaves. Birds of paradise or a yucca plant in a large pot can be a great addition to help give the feeling of landscape and greenery if you don’t have the space.

5. Divide the Space

Another technique used in Japanese gardens includes dividing a space to create an element of surprise. Some experts describe it as creating more than one room. For example, create an outdoor dining area but place lounging furniture in a separate space. Use planters, small walls, linear fountains or simply alternate surfaces (pavers, decking, gravel, artificial turf) to define the outdoor rooms.

6. Use a Focal Point

The idea of a focal point is to draw your eye to one area of your backyard. Maybe this looks like a prominent sculpture or bright wall. Wood gazebos can also be used as a centerpiece of a backyard and don’t have to take up much space. Add fun upholstery and pillows to draw the eye and create a fun gathering space.  

7. Install a Trellis, Arbor, or Pergola 

Adding a structure like a trellis, pergola, or arbor can also create a nice focal point while providing shade and support for greenery to grow above ground level. Arbors are great for spaces that can’t handle a lot of greenery but can still help create a nice landscaped feel. Strategically placing one of these structures at the entrance of your backyard can help draw the eye, create a welcoming feeling, and direct the flow of traffic into your backyard.

Bare pergolas can also be covered with climbing vines to help create more shade and feel cohesive with the surrounding landscape.

8. Build Vertically 

In addition to adding a pergola, trellis, or arbor, tall trees and vertical walls add dimension to small backyard space. A common tree for this purpose is the Leyland cypress which is often planted as privacy screens and grows at rates of 3-4′ per year. Though they are tall and skinny, they do require pruning and can be susceptible to disease.

Banana plants and giant birds of paradise are also commonly used in Southern California. Vertical gardens can also do the trick should you need to cover or add interest to a boring fence. Cover it with a row of tall bamboo for added privacy from neighbors. 

9. Utilize Container and Hanging Gardens

Use hanging succulents or trailing vines in containers to help pull the eye downward in a small backyard space. This can create a garden-like feel while giving the illusion of more space in your backyard. Container gardens will also help pick things up off the ground giving a clutter-free feeling.

10. Incorporate Garden Greenery

No matter what size your backyard is, unused space is an opportunity to turn a backyard into a gardening opportunity if your climate allows. Flower beds, raised garden beds, and small planter areas can be used to grow vegetables, flowers, or other greenery while breaking up your backyard space.

11. Use Garden Accents in Corner Spaces

If you have an awkward corner that you’re not sure what to do with, this could be a good opportunity for some large potted plants to help fill the space and make it cohesive. 

Alternatively, another good small backyard idea is to implement an oversized statement chair to create a focal point.

12. Install a Small Sauna

A small one or two-person sauna could be just what you need to transform a lackluster space and make it a place you look forward to visiting. Saunas are easy to install freestanding in outdoor spaces and can give you a reason to get out of the house. Add some thin plants or shrubbery around the front of the sauna to help it flow the surrounding landscape of your small backyard.   

13. Install an Indoor/Outdoor Structure

If your backyard space permits, you can install a small indoor/outdoor space that can serve as a lounging or meditation area. Weave in a small herb garden for functional value and to help give a relaxing element to this structure. 

14. Add an Outdoor Shower

Outdoor showers can be a great addition to a small backyard landscape as they tend to drive up resale value and can be easily woven into natural elements. This can be a perfect addition for the San Diego and southern California areas where weather allows a small outdoor shower to be useful. Choose hardware that’s cohesive with your backyard landscape and natural elements. 

15. Create a Multipurpose Garden and Dining Space

Maybe you don’t have room for a separate garden and dining space in your backyard. Fortunately, these types of outdoor areas are easy to combine together and do so cohesively.  

Whether you only have a patio to work with or a small grassy area, you can create a terrace dining space with a garden feel using vines, pots, and even hanging plants for more room off the ground. 

16. Place Fine Textured Plants Near the Perimeter of the Yard

Plants with small leaves are less visually demanding and don’t take up much space. They also reflect a lot of light which causes them to more or less blend into a background and appear distant. Place these plants near the borders of the yard and use large-leafed plants toward the front or at a focal point, as mentioned above.

17. Build a Small Fountain

Small fountains can add to the beauty of your backyard landscape without taking up a ton of space, all while giving a relaxing and zen feel. Consider placing fountains next to greenery to tie them together with the rest of your landscaping elements

18. Lay Colorful Tile

Pair colorful or fun patterned ground tiling on your patio with neutral furniture to create an eye-catching outdoor patio space. Neutral furniture is timeless and won’t overwhelm the eye while allowing you to create a vibrant space with fun tile.

19. Hang a Hammock

Hammocks can be great for tiny outdoor spaces since they can save on space that patio furniture permanently takes up. Hang a slim hammock and add some throw pillows to make it cozy. If you need to unhook the hammock for more space, it’s then easy to do so.

20. Incorporate Mirrors

Though not a typical backyard landscaping feature, outside mirrors can draw in more light to decorative areas in a backyard. Find stainless steel, stone, treated wood, or copper mirror frames to help weather the elements without rusting.

21. Use Grayscale Color

Grayscale color pallets can help a tiny backyard feel more spacious, stylish, and bright, giving it the illusion that it’s larger than it really is. Tie greyscale patio furniture together with similar decking colors or grayscale pavers in your outdoor dining area.

22. Choose the Right Lighting

If you have a small space, hang a statement pendant lighting piece or match multiple lighting fixtures to your overall backyard design. Good landscape lighting design can play a huge role in how cohesive your space feels. 

23. Embrace Coziness

Lastly, embrace coziness. Small backyards don’t have to be a negative thing. In fact, they often work to the advantage of creating a cozy, comfortable space. Focus on creating a well-designed seating area with cushions, pillows, and even a small outdoor fireplace or string lights if your space allows it.

24. Ditch the Lawn

Lawns often limit the possibilities of an outdoor space, and finding an alternative to grass can open up different possibilities for activities and entertaining in your small backyard. 

Using a hardscape instead of grass gives you more freedom in the furniture you can use and is also far easier to maintain. 

25. Prioritize Entertainment  

If the goal of your backyard renovation is to create a space to entertain, then you should prioritize making the area comfortable for medium and large groups. 

In order to accomplish this, you need to make sure your backyard feels spacious so as not to crowd guests. You can aptly place tables and outdoor furniture as a focal point or around the perimeter so your small backyard is comfortable but not crowded. Also, you could consider adding a fireplace or bar cart to maximize your space’s entertainment value. 

26. Take Advantage of Wall Space 

If you have wall space in your small backyard, don’t be afraid to use it. Building shelves into the walls can be an effective way to add practicality to your backyard without surrendering too much space.

Hanging shelves can oftentimes enhance the aesthetic of a backyard and add some practicality. For example, you can create a nook of shelves for gardening tools or add some potted plants for color.  

Additional Small Backyard Ideas

Still haven’t found your ideal small backyard setup? Here are some more small backyard ideas that are perfect for enhancing your space: 

• 27. Go for a Greenhouse: Are you an avid gardener? A mini greenhouse is a great way to breathe life into your small backyard
• 28. Create a Kid Zone: If you have children, you can convert a section of your small backyard into a small playground or build a treehouse. There are plenty of ways to make your small backyard kid friendly. 
• 29. Go for Gravel: Gravel can be easier to maintain than grass and give your backyard a nice rustic look. 
• 30. Personalize your Fence: In most small backyards, the fence is a major player. Give your fence some personality by decorating with lights or adding fence planters. 
• 31. Opt for Foldable: Folding chairs give you the freedom to keep your backyard open and spacious when you’re not enjoying it. 
• 32. Grill Out: If you want to host cookouts, let the grill or outdoor kitchen be the focal point of your backyard. 
• 33. Use your View: If your backyard has a beautiful view, let it shine! Don’t take attention away from your view with added greenery or too many lights. 
• 34. Take Advantage of Windows: Backyard-facing windows can double as bars and places for plants and greenery. If you open up your windows, they can become part of your small backyard design. 
• 35. Play Some Tricks: Straight lines and uniformity make spaces seem longer and larger than they actually are. Keep this in mind when crafting your small backyard space. 

Frequently Asked Questions

While these ideas may sound great in theory, putting them into practice is easier said than done, and questions are sure to arise. Some common questions and answers include:  

How do I plan a small backyard? 

Planning a small backyard starts with having a clear vision. From there, you can work with a professional on how to best accomplish your goals. 

If your budget allows you to make additions, ensure you have room for whatever you’re adding. Large additions like saunas and fountains can crowd the space, so it’s best to consult a designer before leaping into the project. 

How can I design a small backyard on a budget? 

Designing a small backyard on a budget is easiest when you use readily available resources like fences, windows, and existing surroundings. Redesigns get pricier when you start to add and build new elements. 

If you want to upgrade your backyard space without breaking the bank, consider some DIY small backyard ideas, like building wall shelves or allowing your backyard-facing window to double as a bar. 

What is the cheapest way to landscape a small backyard? 

Planting trees and flowers are relatively cheap ways to landscape a small backyard. However, the cheapest way long-term is to ditch grass in favor of hardscapes, as hardscapes cost little to nothing to maintain. 

Create the Backyard Space of Your Dreams

With these small backyard ideas you can transform your outdoor landscape into a relaxing space you’ll want to spend your time. Not to mention these can make for some great DIY projects. If you need help transforming your outdoor living space, our experts at Install It Direct are here to help you with all your landscaping needs, no matter the size of your backyard. 

The post 35 Small Backyard Ideas That Make a Big Impact appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Typically the most effective way to kill your grass lawn is to apply an herbicide, such as glyphosate — doing so will eliminate grass and weeds all together. However, there are many different ways, natural and otherwise, that can kill your grass quickly and effectively. 

In this post, we’ll cover 11 methods for how to kill grass and reasons you might need to do so beyond aesthetics. 

Table of contents:

• How to Kill Grass Naturally
  • Shovel method
  • Boiling water
  • Salt
  • Solarization
  • Layering
  • Baking soda
• Non-Natural Grass Killer Methods
  • Commercial herbacides
  • Bleach
  • Dishsoap
• Why You May Need to Kill Your Grass

How to Kill Grass Naturally

1. The Shovel Method

If you don’t mind a bit of hard labor, you can manually remove your grass by digging it up. Stop watering your lawn so that it will turn brown and die. Once it is dead, grab a shovel – and hopefully some friends – and start excavating. Make sure you know where your irrigation lines are to avoid adding irrigation repairs to your chore list. 

Even if you use other methods on this list, you may need to use some sort of excavation process to remove your dead lawn if you cannot simply let it compost in place.

2. Vinegar

Vinegar is a good choice for folks looking for an inexpensive, natural method for killing grass. 

1. Step 1: Choose a hot day with now wind or rain in the forecast. Hotter temperatures help with the effectiveness of the process.. 
2. Step 2: Simply spray your lawn with vinegar and wait for it to die. 
3. Step 3:  Reapply the vinegar spray every few days until all of the grass is dead.

The thing to remember when working with vinegar is that it is an indiscriminate killer, which means you must keep it away from any plants you want to keep. Keep in mind that vinegar usually kills only what is above ground and does not kill the roots. Because of this, you may need to repeat this process until your grass is dead.

3. Boiling Water

Pouring boiling water over grass, weeds, or unwanted plants is an inexpensive way to kill them, but it is not the easiest method. First, you have to be very careful not to spill any of the boiling water on your skin while carrying it from the kitchen to your lawn. Second, unless you are only trying to figure out how to kill grass in a tiny area, it is going to take a lot of trips back and forth to the kitchen and a lot of time waiting for pots of water to boil. 

Keep in mind that this is another method that usually only kills what is above ground and will not kill the roots.

4. Salt

Salt is an easy, natural way to kill weeds, grass, or any unwanted plants. Like vinegar, salt is an indiscriminate killer, so you will need to be careful when applying it to your lawn. 

1. Step 1: Generously sprinkle the salt all over your lawn.
2. Step 2: Then water your lawn to get the salt down into the soil.

*Alternatively, you can mix salt and water in a garden sprayer and spray your lawn. 

Either way, you will need to keep the salt away from flowerbeds or any wanted plants. You should only use salt in areas where you never want anything to grow again. While soil can recover from the introduction of salt over time, you are going to need some serious patience to wait around for this to happen.

Be aware of where water runs off of your lawn. If it rains or if your irrigation runs, the salt can be distributed in other areas through runoff.

5. Baking Soda

Sodium bicarbonate, commonly known as baking soda, can be used to kill grass as well. In small amounts, baking soda can be beneficial to lawns, such as for killing moss or treating lawn fungus. However, when applied in a concentrated and targeted manner, it can also be used to kill weeds or crabgrass in natural grass lawns. To kill your entire lawn with baking soda will be a little tougher, and your success with this method will depend on the type of grass you have and the makeup of your soil.

To kill grass with baking soda:

1. Step 1: Wet the lawn.
2. Step 2: Liberally apply baking soda to the blades. 
3. Step 3: Re-apply every few days until the grass is dead. 

Keep in mind that baking soda increases the salinity of the soil, similar to applying salt, so keep an eye out for runoff and make sure you only use this method in areas where you want to kill everything.

6. Solarization

Killing grass with solarization can take anywhere from a few weeks to a few months, but it is an effective and inexpensive option. Solarization is a simple, two-step process.

1. Step 1: Mow your lawn.
2. Step 2: Cover it with black plastic sheeting and let the sun do the rest. 

7. Layering

If you have access to a lot of newspaper or cardboard, layering is an effective method for killing grass and improving the soil for whatever you might want to grow in that area once your lawn is gone.

1. Step 1: Simply mow your lawn
2. Step 2: Add multiple layers of newspaper or cardboard (or both).
3. Step 3: Generously wet down the newspaper/cardboard layer.  
4. Step 4: Cover it with a layer of mulch. 

This method usually takes a few weeks to about two months to kill the grass, but the layer of mulch will make the area less of an eyesore during the process.

8. Mulching

Mulching is similar to layering but without the newspaper or cardboard. Instead of depriving your lawn of sunlight and air with newspapers, you will do it with a thick layer of mulch. 

1. Step 1: Mow your lawn as short as possible.
2. Step 2: Cover it with 10 to 12 inches of a heavy mulch – such as wood chips.
3. Step 3: Wait a few weeks to let your grass die.

Do not skimp on the mulch because using a layer will just nourish your grass and allow it to grow up through it.

Non-Natural Grass Killer Methods

9. Commercial Herbicides

When possible, it is always better to use natural options for all of your landscaping tasks, but commercial herbicides that contain potentially harmful chemicals are quite effective and should at least be on this list. These options, such as glyphosate (think: Roundup), are non-selective and kill grass and weeds permanently. They also kill down to the roots, which is not the case with most natural ways to kill grass.

If you choose this method, wear long sleeves, gloves, and eye protection to limit exposure. You should also pick a day with no wind and no rain in the forecast.

10. Bleach

Bleach kills grass, weeds, and any other plants it is sprayed on or poured on. Since you may already have bleach in your laundry room, this might be a good solution for you. But, before using bleach to kill grass, make sure you take precautions to protect yourself, your children, your animals, and plants you want to keep. Always wear gloves, eye protection, and protective clothing when working with bleach. Keep animals and children out of the area while you are applying the bleach, and make sure that you only apply it to plants or grasses that you want to kill.

Bleach will penetrate soil layers and also kill beneficial microbes and worms, which is not ideal, particularly if you want to plant something else in the area.

11. Dish Soap

In concentrated amounts, dish soap can be an effective grass killer. While it’s more commonly used as a DIY pesticide, dish soap will also dry out and kill your lawn. Because dish soap is meant to cut oil and grease, it will also break down the healthy, oil-based tissue in grass and weeds. Without that, grass can no longer contain moisture and combined with sunlight and heat, you’ll quickly end up with a brown lawn. 

Dish soap can also be combined with salt and vinegar for a more effective DIY herbicide. 

1. Step 1: Heat vinegar over the stove.
2. Step 2: Combine vinegar with Epsom Salt and wisk until it has dissolved. 
3. Step 3: Once that combination has cooled, add dish soap to the mixture.
4. Step 4: Spray heavily or pour on grass. 

Keep in mind this method may take multiple applications to fully kill the roots and will need to be excavated once the grass has dried out. 

Why You May Need to Kill Your Grass

Grass Creeps Into Unwanted Areas

Creeping grass varieties spread through underground rhizomes and aboveground stolons, and, if not effectively held in place by landscaping borders or hardscapes, they may creep into areas where you never intended to have a lawn. When this occurs, you may need to kill the grass to keep it from spreading.

Spend Less Time on Yard Care

At some point, most natural grass lawn owners grow tired of the constant mowing, weeding, edging, fertilizing, aerating, and watering. When they reach this point, they usually either hire a company to care for their lawn, or they reduce it or remove it and replace it with low-maintenance landscaping options.

Removing your natural grass lawn and replacing it with artificial turf or drought-tolerant plants allows you to spend less time taking care of your yard and more time enjoying it.

Conserve water

More than 50% of outdoor water usage goes to watering lawns. This means that anyone who wants to lower their water bill or reduce their home’s environmental impact can easily accomplish both of these goals in one step: removing their lawns.

Create Space for a Garden

Growing food plants is a great way to know where your food is coming from and how it’s grown while also teaching your kids about caring for food plants all the way from planting seeds to harvesting. If you plan on growing very much food in your backyard or front yard, you are going to need some space. Removing your natural grass lawn is the perfect way to increase the space you have available for growing food for your family.

Replace Natural Grass for Turf

You still want a green, lush lawn for your kids to play on, your dogs to nap on, and for that all-important curb appeal, but you are over it when it comes to the maintenance and irrigation requirements. Plus, it gets brown spots, needs to be reseeded, and just takes a lot of effort to keep it looking healthy and inviting. So, when you are ready to replace it with low-maintenance synthetic turf, you are going to need to find out how to kill grass so you can make the switch.

You Need to Start Over

You may love natural grass and be committed to keeping a natural grass lawn in your yard. However, if your current lawn is riddled with brown spots, overgrown with weeds, or not a drought-tolerant variety, you may need to start over. If this is the case, you will need to kill and remove your current lawn to replace it with a more environmentally friendly option or just some healthy, new sod to get it looking green and welcoming again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will Grass Grow Back After Bleach?

Chlorine bleach like Clorox will permanently kill grass and most everything else in the soil. Bleach breaks down into salt, which will continue to rob the soil of microbes and nutrients long after the bleach has been applied to the grass. 

In fact, it can take up to a year for the soil area to recover from a bleach application. Sometimes a new sod/soil application is necessary to establish proper pH balance. This is why you won’t want to use bleach if you plan to grow anything else in place of your former grassy area. 

Will Grass Grow Back After Roundup?

Roundup and similar herbicides kill grass completely to the root. However, Roundup does not kill grass and weed seeds, so if there are any seeds present in the soil at the time of the application, chances are that you’ll see sprouts pop up even after an application, in which case, more application or other prevention measures may be necessary.

What Kills Grass the Fastest?

If you’re fine with using a non-natural method to kill your grass, commercial herbicides like Roundup, Scotts, Spectracide, Ortho or Green Gobbler are some of the quickest and most hassle free ways to kill grass and weeds. These typically take 10-14 days to fully kill a lawn.

Whether you just have a patchy lawn and need to start over from scratch or you’re going for a fresh look with your outdoor landscaping, there are many ways to effectively kill grass and weeds. Just remember to consider what kind of plants, if any, that you might want to grown in that space down the road. Need some help with revamping your landscape design in San Diego? Our team at Install-It-Direct is here to help you create your landscaping vision, whether you’re in Chula Vista, Encinitas, or Fairbanks Ranch.

The post How to Kill Grass: 11 Effective Methods for Homeowners appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Sometimes, when you are looking for small trees for your garden, what you really need is a shrub that can be trained and pruned like a tree. For example, shrubs like hop bush or crepe myrtle make gorgeous trees and, since there is not much difference between a big shrub and a small tree, you will often see them referred to as trees and shrubs interchangeably.

So, to help you on your quest to find the perfect tree for a small space, here are 15 small trees and large shrubs for you to consider.

1. Crepe Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)

Crepe myrtle (also spelled crape myrtle) is a great example of a flowering shrub that can be grown as either a shrub or a tree. There are dozens of crepe myrtle varieties, including dwarf myrtles that grow anywhere from five to eight feet tall to deciduous and evergreen options that grow to heights upwards of 30 feet, with canopies that can reach 20 feet long. Choosing a variety like Lagerstroemia indica allows you to add brilliant color to a small yard or patio area with a flowering tree.

Crepe myrtle flowers, which have the delicate look of crepe paper, come in pinks, purple or white. Aside from the gorgeous flowers you can enjoy between late spring and fall, you will also enjoy that this small tree requires little maintenance and can thrive in just a small soil space.

• Botanical name: Lagerstroemia indica
• Height at maturity: 5-9 feet (dwarf varieties)
• Growing conditions: Warm, humid climates. Crepe myrtles are somewhat drought tolerant but will need extra water during hot months.
• Zones: 7 through 10

2. Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum)

This deciduous beauty may lose its gorgeous leaves in fall, but the elegant silhouette of the bare trunk and branches will provide plenty of visual interest in your garden throughout the winter.

Japanese maples like a little shade, but there are some cultivars that can better handle that sunny spot near your patio. While some varieties can grow quite tall, Japanese maples are ideal for small spaces because their compact root system does not require a large area of soil in which to spread out. In fact, some of these small trees can even be grown in large containers on your patio. Some are even grown as bonsais.

Depending on the variety you choose, leaf color can range from orange or green to deep purple, so do a little research before buying to determine which color will work best with your landscape design.

• Botanical name: Acer palmatum
• Height at maturity: 6-12 feet
• Growing conditions: Partial shade, rich, moist and well drained soil. Slightly acidic soil pH.
• Zones: 5 through 8

3. Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis)

Bay laurels can grow in such a small space that you can actually grow this one in a container on your patio. Left to its own devices, it can soar to more than 50 feet tall, but it can be pruned to keep it at a much more manageable size. Bay laurels will only grow as tall as their planted environment allows. If potted or planted in a limited soil space, they’ll remain much smaller — around 10-12 feet.

Bay laurels are evergreen trees that prefer full sun, part sun or part shade and are hardy in zones 8 through 11. Since you will be pruning it anyway to keep it small, save the leaves to dry for culinary use or to make aromatic wreaths for décor or gifts.

• Botanical name: Laurus nobilis
• Height at maturity: 10 to 60 feet tall. Depending on potting conditions
• Growing conditions: Full to partial sun. Native to Mediterranean climates. Well drained soil 
• Zones: 8 through 11

4. Semi-Dwarf Fruit Trees

If you love the idea of stepping into your garden to pick oranges for fresh-squeezed juice but do not have room for a 30-foot orange tree, semi-dwarf fruit trees might be your answer. Semi-dwarf fruit trees are half the size of their standard-size counterparts. This makes these small trees a perfect choice for small yards and allows homeowners to grow their own fruits even if they do not have much space.

Another advantage of choosing semi-dwarf fruit trees is that they begin producing fruit much sooner than full-size trees. This option comes in lots of varieties, so talk with a pro at your local garden center to determine which fruit trees will do best where you live. For folks living in Southern California, citrus fruits and avocados are usually a good choice, but this may not be the case if you live in an inland or mountainous area with hard freezes. 

• Botanical name: Apples, apricots apriums, pears, cherries, nectaries peach and plum varieties
• Height at maturity: 12 to 15 feet tall/wide
• Growing conditions: Full sun, soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0, well drained soil 
• Zones: 5 through 8 (depending on the fruit variety)

5. Dwarf Fruit Trees

For folks with even less space for their backyard orchard, there are dwarf fruit trees. Dwarf options generally grow several feet less than their semi-dwarf counterparts and some can be grown successfully in containers. While they do not produce nearly as much fruit as semi-dwarf options, dwarf trees reach maturity faster and start producing fruit sooner. Their size also makes it easier to harvest fruits and to perform maintenance tasks like pruning.

Like semi-dwarf trees, dwarf citrus trees come in many varieties, so do a little research to see which types of fruit trees will grow best where you live. Also, while it might seem like a shorter tree should be sturdier than their taller cousins, dwarf trees usually need to be staked at least until they reach maturity.

• Botanical name: Limes, lemons, orange, grapefruit and other citrus varieties
• High at maturity: 6 to 10 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full sun, soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0, loamy, well drained soil 
• Zones: 9 through 11 

6. Palo Verde (Cercidium)

Palo Verde trees are truly drought tolerant, so this is a great choice for Southern California and Arizona where we seem to be in a never-ending state of some level of drought. Some varieties reach 40 feet in height, so choose carefully if you are in the market for small trees.

Your best bet is Desert Museum Palo Verde, which is a hybrid that grows to be about 20 feet tall, has no thorns and has a long blooming season. Your other option is a Foothill Palo Verde, which also grows to about 20 feet tall but has thorns that make it a less-than-ideal choice for small spaces or spaces where children play. You will enjoy beautiful yellow blossoms with either of these varieties.

A fun fact about Palo Verde trees is that their green trunks and branches can photosynthesize. In fact, the trunk and branches do most of the work, which is unique in the plant community where photosynthesis is usually left up to the leaves. This unique quality allows Palo Verde trees to drop their leaves in times of extreme drought, which is a survival mechanism that makes this option particularly drought tolerant and able to survive in the desert.

• Botanical name: Cercidium floridum or Parkinsonia florida
• High at maturity: 15 to 30 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full sun, limited water, sandy, well drained soil 
• Zones: 8 through 11 

7. Little Gem Southern Dwarf Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)

If you are looking for small trees with big flowers, a Little Gem magnolia might be your perfect choice. These slow-growing evergreens do well in full sun, and have large, showy blooms from late spring through summer. If you have a spot in your garden that is part sun or part shade, this magnolia will still do fine, just know that you will see fewer flowers if you choose a shady spot.

Little Gem magnolias are not drought tolerant and require regular watering, so this is a better choice for folks looking for a tree for an area that already requires regular irrigation. For example, you might choose this magnolia for a flowerbed or border where you have a drip system. You can also grow this one in a container.

• Botanical name: Magnolia grandiflora
• Height at maturity: 15 to 25 feet
• Growing conditions: Partial shade to full sun, deeply watered, moist soil
• Zones: 7 through 9

8. Banana Shrub (Magnolia figo)

Banana shrubs are versatile, flowering shrubs that can be planted as a privacy hedge, will grow well in borders along fence lines, can be grown in containers on your patio, or can be added to your landscape design as small trees.

The yellow and purple flowers are not edible, but they give off a banana-like fragrance that makes them an aromatic addition to outdoor living areas. The deep green foliage of these trees also provides year-round visual interest to your yard.

These plants grow best in sunny tropical to subtropical climates, and will bloom fragrant flowers sporadically throughout the summer months. 

• Botanical name: Magnolia figo
• Height at maturity: 6 to 13 feet tall/wide
• Growing conditions: Partial to full sun, lightly moist soil, partially humid climates
• Zones: 7B through 10

9. California Lilac (Ceanothus)

The first thing to know about California lilacs is that they are not true lilacs, but they do have gorgeous clusters of flowers usually found in white, pale blue, dark blue, pink or lavender. The second thing to know is that there are dozens of cultivars that range in height from six inches to about 10 feet, so you will need to choose the taller versions to use this flowering shrub as a tree in your landscape design. 

This one is a California native, so it will require regular watering until established, and then infrequent, deep watering once or twice a month after that. If you plant your California lilacs in late fall, the rain we get over the winter will help take care of the early irrigation needs for these small trees.

Some cultivars are evergreen, some are deciduous, and each has its own blooming period. This means that you will want to work with a pro at your local garden center to find the variety of California lilac that best suits your needs. California lilacs are a great choice for a drought-resistant garden and for folks who want to attract birds, butterflies and pollinators to their yard.

• Botanical name: Ceanothus
• Height at maturity: 2 to 10 feet depending on the cultivar
• Growing conditions: Mediterranean-style climates, full sun and well drained, moist soil
• Zones: 8 through 10

10. Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)

Desert willows are a solid option if you are looking for small trees for a drought-tolerant garden. Native to southwest deserts, these deciduous beauties have only a brief leafless period but are still attractive, even when their branches are bare. Desert willows bloom from spring to early fall with dark pink, white, purple, or lilac flowers that look a bit like a cross between an iris and an orchid.

Some cultivars of this shrub or small tree can grow as tall as 24 feet, but others have a mature height of around five feet, which makes them a good choice for patios or small gardens. This drought-resistant option does not require excessive irrigation, but you are going to need to prune it regularly to maintain a tree-like shape. 

It’s an incredibly low maintenance plant that requires very little care.

• Botanical name: Chilopsis linearis
• Height at maturity: 12 to 18 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full sun with dry to medium moist soil, soil pH of 6.6-8.5
• Zones: 6 through 9 

11. California Juniper (Juniperus californica)

California juniper is another native, drought-tolerant option that works well in small, sunny spaces with dry soil. In fact, it requires little to no watering — ideal for people who don’t have lots of time to tend to their yards. These small trees have berry-like cones resting amongst scale-like leaves. This one is an evergreen, so you can enjoy the foliage throughout the year.

California junipers grow best at elevations between about 2,500 feet and 5,000 feet, so this one is best for folks living in foothills and mountainous areas in Southern California. This is also a good choice for gardeners hoping to provide habitat for birds and other wildlife.

Since these can be bonsaied, you should have no trouble growing your juniper in a container, if that is the space you are trying to fill.

• Botanical name: Juniperus californica
• Height at maturity: 10 to 25 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full sun with sandy, loamy, well-drained soil
• Zones: 8 through 10

12. Tea Trees (Leptospermum)

Tea trees is a general term used for a group of large shrubs or small trees in the myrtle family primarily native to Australia and New Zealand. You have probably seen tea trees pruned as shrubby hedges in Southern California, but you can also prune them as small trees for patios or outdoor living areas.

This evergreen shrub can be grown in borders and containers, so they are a good choice for small gardens and patios. Look for white, pink or red blooms from late spring through early fall.

Aside from the quality of being small in stature, tea trees also appeal to folks looking for options that are drought tolerant, deer resistant and attractive to pollinators.

• Botanical name: Leptospermum scoparium 
• Height at maturity: 6 to 10 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full sun or light shade with rich, medium moist, well-drained soil
• Zones: 9 through 12

13. California Wax Myrtle (Myrica californica)

Also called pacific wax myrtle, California bayberry or pacific bayberry, California wax myrtles are native to most of the west coast and straddle that line between evergreen shrub and small tree. While you can enjoy the dark green leaves throughout the year, you will also get white or yellow flowers in spring and summer, as well as purple berries.

This one is a drought-tolerant option that needs little water once established. Pacific wax myrtles are also tolerant of wind and salt spray, which means you can use them as a windbreak in coastal gardens. 

Since it is a fast-growing evergreen, this one can also be used to block unsightly views or make your patio a bit more private.

• Botanical name: Myrica californica
• Height at maturity: 6 to 25 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full or partial sun with moist clay, loam or sandy soils
• Zones: 7 through 10

14. Royal Purple Smoke Tree (Cotinus coggyria “Royal Purple”)

This deciduous tree is a perfect choice for adding color and visual interest to a small space. Royal purple smoke trees offer a completely different look than other trees on this list with their feathery plumes and purple-red foliage. 

They prefer full sun, part sun or part shade and are drought tolerant, so you can expect to water these regularly before they are established and occasionally after they are established.

You will want to prune them a bit to keep them looking like a tree, rather than a shrub, and to keep them small, but they require little maintenance other than that.

• Botanical name: Cotinus coggygria
• Height at maturity: 10 to 15 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full or partial sun with well-drained, loamy soils
• Zones: 4 through 9

15. California Redbud (Cercis occidentalis)

The California redbud – also known as western redbud – is native to the entire Southwestern United States and comes in both single-trunk tree and multi-trunk shrub options. This means you will need to be sure you select the right option for your landscaping needs.

This is a gorgeous, flowering tree that offers visual interest every season of the year from the magenta flowers you will enjoy in spring to the elegant silhouette of silvery branches in the winter. The flowers on California redbuds attract hummingbirds, bees, butterflies and other native pollinators, bringing more life into your backyard space. They prefer full sun or partial sun and are drought tolerant once established, but you will see more blooms in the spring if you give it a little extra water.

• Botanical name: Cercis occidentalis
• Height at maturity: 10 to 20 feet tall
• Growing conditions: Full to partial sun with well-drained clay, loam and sand soils
• Zones: 6 through 9 

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best small tree to plant near a house?

When picking a tree to plant near a house, you’ll want to consider the root system. As for underground piping. Dwarf or semi-dwarf fruit trees like crabapples, cherry, and citrus trees or small varieties like Japanese maples, California redbuds, or dwarf magnolias are all excellent options to plant near a home.

What kind of tree will stay small?

Most of the trees on this list above are great options if you’re looking for a small variety. However, some species on this list, like Palo Verde, can grow up to 40 feet depending on the variety, so if you’re worried about the size of a tree long term, it might be best to err on the side of caution and chose a shrub-type tree like a California Wax Myrtle or a California juniper species or work with a professional landscaper with knowledge of different tree varieties. 

What is the fastest growing small tree?

There are a wide variety of fast growing small trees such as the American redbud, flowering dogwood, saucer magnolia, sweetbay magnolia, evergreen magnolia and red maple — all making them good choices if you’re looking to create a shaded space in your yard quickly.

Your Local San Diego Landscaping Experts

When it comes to picking a small tree for your front yard, backyard or anywhere else on your property, the options are endless. In addition to basic growing considerations like hardiness zones, climate and care, you’ll want to consider the space you have to work with and how a tree may impact your landscaping and home as a whole. If you need help with landscaping design in San Diego or the surrounding areas, our team at Install-It-Direct is here to help you bring your outdoor living space and landscape together. 

Originally published on January 6, 2019. Refreshed on 9/27/22.

The post 15 Small Trees to Spruce Up Your Landscaping appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Of course, there are plenty of commercial herbicides that use toxic chemicals (some of which are organic compounds) for long-term weed eradication, but, while these products are generally rather effective, recent studies link one of the most popular, widely available weed killers to cancer. Others have been linked to kidney and liver damage, endocrine disruption, birth defects, and detrimental effects on wildlife and the environment.

If you have not already stopped using products labeled as potential or likely carcinogens, such as glyphosate and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (aka 2,4-D), it may be time to do a little more research on the possible health effects of these weed killers before spraying them around your family and pets. A quick online search for health effects of commercial herbicides will likely turn rather quickly into a search for how to kill weeds naturally.

The good news is that there are lots of natural and homemade weed killers that are both effective and non-toxic. So, if you are tired of pulling weeds, there are plenty of options you can try before turning to potentially dangerous chemicals.

When using natural weed control methods, it is important to remember that weeds are basically just plants that we find undesirable. Natural herbicides kill plants indiscriminately, which means they will kill desirable plants right along with unwanted weeds. Therefore, it is necessary to apply these products with care to kill the weeds you do not want without damaging the plants and flowers you love.

1. Use the hands-on approach: Pull weeds before they go to seed.

Most gardeners search for natural ways to kill weeds specifically because they do not want to pull them. However, this old-fashioned weed-removal method is a tried-and-true way to get a weed-free yard. You should not have to pull weeds on a regular basis, since you are going to use some of these other natural weed control options, but sometimes this is the best way to get rid of weeds fast. Most importantly, you need to get rid of weeds that are starting to go to seed. When weeds go to seed, they produce hundreds of seeds and expand their lifespan significantly.

Once your current weeds go to seed, those seeds are going to scatter throughout your yard and make weed removal much more difficult. So, whether you pull them or kill them by other means, be sure to get rid of your weeds before they go to seed.

What to do: Grabbing many weeds at once often results in you only pulling out half of the weed — which will allow it to continue to grow. Instead, pull each weed individually from the root. This will completely eradicate the weed.

2. Bring out the blow torch.

Weed torches are actually a thing, and you can even purchase them online. But, before you get too excited, it is important to note that these backyard blow torches should not actually be used to burn weeds, since any vegetation dry enough to burn is probably not safe to burn. Instead, use your propane weed torch to wilt your weeds into submission.

Obviously, you need to keep open flames far from desired plants, trees, your firewood storage area, anywhere with dry vegetation, your house, other structures, and anything flammable. Because of this, it is going to be best for most folks to try other natural weed control methods before turning to a blow torch.

What to do: Slowly apply the torch to the root of the weed so any moisture within the weed will evaporate. Without any moisture to sustain it, the weed will die.

3. Mow them down.

Mowing can be an effective method when determining how to kill weeds on a lawn. Mowing your weeds will remove their flowering bits, which is a temporary fix to keep your weeds from going to seed. This method is most effective for weeds growing in natural grass lawns and, again, it is only temporary. You will still need to employ other natural weed killers to eradicate the problem, but this quick fix will at least keep the weeds from going to seed and those seeds spreading to create an even bigger issue.

What to do: Set your lawn mower to around two inches and mow the area with weeds. Afterward, you can pull the remaining roots from the ground to completely eradicate them. 

4. Dowse them with boiling water.

As far as DIY weed killers go, boiling water is certainly one of the most straightforward methods. This natural weed killer is practically free, and you definitely already have it on hand. All you need is a stove, a pot, and some tap water. Or, better yet, if you happen to have a stovetop tea kettle or an electric kettle, this process will be even easier.

What to do:  Pour the boiling water directly on unwanted weeds. You may have to do this more than once if you have weeds with deep tap roots, but it will eventually kill them off. Be sure to avoid pouring boiling water on desired plants, since this is an indiscriminate killer.

5. Use a homemade vinegar weed killer.

Vinegar is one of the best-known natural weed killers and has been used for this purpose for just about as long as people have been trying to rid their yards of weeds.

When determining how to kill weeds with vinegar, it’s important to do some homework ahead of time. You will be best served by picking up vinegar with 20% acetic acid, which you can purchase online or at your local garden center. The stuff you buy at the grocery store has only 5% acetic acid and is great for cleaning and all sorts of household tasks, but it will not kill weeds as effectively as vinegar with 20% acetic acid.

What to do: Put the vinegar in a garden sprayer or spray bottle and spray it directly on the leaves of unwanted plants. This is another indiscriminate killer, so you will need to make sure you do not accidentally spray any on desired plants. When using vinegar to kill weeds, you will likely need to repeat the treatment two or three times to get the job done.

6. Stop germination with cornmeal.

If you enjoy spending time in the kitchen, you probably already have cornmeal on hand. This means that you can stop weed growth in your yard with a natural weed killer right from your pantry.

Cornmeal stops weed growth by inhibiting germination. Since cornmeal keeps all seeds from germinating, it is important that you use this weed control method only in areas where you are not going to try to grow desired plants from seeds. Cornmeal will not affect established plants, so you can use it on bare ground to keep weed seeds from germinating, or you can use it in flowerbeds or vegetable gardens that have established plants. Just avoid using the cornmeal method in areas where you plan on planting seeds.

What to do: Distribute the cornmeal evenly throughout the area where you want to kill weeds. Then, lightly sprinkle some water on the ground to activate the oils responsible for killing weeds. After 5-6 weeks, reapply the cornmeal until the weeds are dead.

7. Brush baking soda into cracks.

If your main issue is weeds growing through cracks in your walkways, patio, or driveway, you may have the solution in your kitchen right now. Baking soda is another effective solution for killing weeds in cracks.

What to do: Grab a box of baking soda and sprinkle it along cracks where weeds grow. Then, use a broom or deck brush to push it into the cracks. You will need to repeat this process after it rains or if you rinse down your hardscapes since that will dilute the baking soda.

8. Sprinkle the weeds and soil with salt.

Table salt is an effective, inexpensive, natural weed killer that will dehydrate unwanted plants and render the soil barren well into the future. That is the thing about salt: It is incredibly effective at killing weeds, but it will also kill any other plants in the area, and nothing will grow in that soil for at least several months. On a small scale, you can use a minimal amount of salt to kill weeds, and then irrigate the area regularly to dilute the salt so that you will, one day, be able to plant there again. 

However, it is safest to only use this method in areas where you have no future plans for growing anything at all. For example, driveway cracks or walkways made of gravel or wood chips are good candidates for salt-based weed control. While salt is non-toxic to humans and animals, you will need to take a few precautions with this one. 

First, you will need to be careful when applying it to hardscapes and be sure to get it only in the cracks, since salt can corrode concrete and concrete pavers. Secondly, it is imperative that you do not use salt in areas where runoff could carry it to flowerbeds, a natural grass lawn, or other areas where you want to keep the soil healthy.

What to do: Salt is most effective and less dangerous as a herbicide when mixed with water from the start. Create a 1:2 mixture of salt and water in a spray bottle and spray the weed leaves. This will accomplish your goal of killing the weeds while protecting the desirable plants around them. 

8. Bring on the borax.

A simple borax-water mixture is an inexpensive, homemade weed killer that takes seconds to mix and kills weeds quickly. You only need about five ounces of borax per gallon of water, so if you have a two-gallon sprayer, you would mix in about 10 ounces of borax. 

What to do: Mix the borax and water until dissolved. Then, spray the mixture on areas where weeds are growing to kill weeds quickly. If you are treating smaller areas with a spray bottle, you will only need about an ounce to one-and-a-half ounces of borax per quart of water. Be sure to wear gloves and other protective gear to keep the solution off your skin and out of your eyes. This is another one where you will need to be careful to only spray the weeds you want to kill while avoiding desirable plants or spraying too much borax onto the soil.

9. Using vodka in homemade weed killer.

If you happen to have some extra vodka in your liquor cabinet, you can mix one ounce of vodka with about two cups of water in a spray bottle. Add a couple of drops of natural dish soap to the mix, shake well, and you have a simple, inexpensive home remedy for weeds. Be sure to spray your vodka weed killer directly on the leaves of the weeds in the middle of the day. Since the vodka kills your weeds by making them more vulnerable to dehydration, sun is an essential part of the equation. 

What to do: On a sunny day, spray your weeds around noon or in the early afternoon with your vodka concoction, and watch them wither away.

10. Mix vinegar weed killer with dish soap and salt.

If you do not have any extra vodka lying around, or you simply do not want to part with it, you can also whip up a vinegar weed killer using vinegar, dish soap, and salt. 

What to do: You have two options here: You can fill your spray bottle with vinegar and add a few drops of natural dish soap and a pinch of salt, or you can fill your spray bottle with vinegar, add the dish soap and skip the salt. Which one you choose really just depends on your future plans for the area of your yard that is currently covered in weeds. Either of these homemade herbicides will kill the weeds, but if you choose the salt option, it will also most likely make the soil unable to grow desirable plants in that area for at least a few months.

11. Buy an organic herbicide.

If you are not up for making your own homemade weed killer or think that commercial solutions may be stronger or better, you can always purchase an organic herbicide at your local garden center or home improvement store. These natural herbicides often contain acetic acid, citric acid, or oils, such as clove oil, orange oil, or cinnamon oil. 

Much like homemade weed control options, store-bought organic and natural herbicides are non-selective, so they will kill both desirable and undesirable plants. This means that you need to be careful where you are spraying if you choose this option.

What to do: Spray the herbicide generously on weeds while avoiding any plants in your garden.

12. Crowd them out.

Ground covers and close plantings compete with weeds for water, light, and nutrients. If weeds are growing in an area where you do not plan on planting anything else, you can even plant a thug, which is a plant that will happily steal all of the light, nutrients, and water from any plants around them – desirable or not – and take over the entire area. Thugs easily crowd out other plants and will readily overpower any weeds that dare grow near them.

What to do: Plant your thugs or ground covers around the weeds but away from any desirable plants. Then, the thugs will quickly crowd out the weeds. 

13. Rent goats for weed control.

Goats are not the ideal solution for every weed situation, but they are a great choice for hillsides, rocky areas, places that are difficult for humans to reach, and large areas that do not have desirable plants. Goats will eat just about anything in their path, so this is not an option for clearing the weeds in your vegetable garden or around your prized petunias, but they are a viable option for spots where you need some serious weed abatement. 

What to do: You do not need to purchase goats to handle your weed situation; you may have a neighbor who will let you borrow some, or you can rent them from companies or goat farmers who provide goats to clients specifically for this purpose. Once you have the goats, they will happily eat away your weeds. 

14. Install landscaping fabric around plants and under hardscapes.

If you are planning to install an artificial grass lawn, paving stone patio, gravel walkway, or brick driveway, it is always a good idea to include weed-blocking landscaping fabric in the installation process. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and adding this one step to hardscape installations can significantly reduce the amount of time you spend pulling weeds later on.

You can also prevent weeds in established flowerbeds and borders by installing landscaping fabric around plants under wood chips or gravel.

15. Protect your soil and block the sunlight with mulch.

Applying a thick layer of mulch around your desirable plants or on larger patches of bare dirt provides two-part weed control that does not require chemical-laden herbicides or hours of pulling weeds. First, the mulch provides a barrier that will help keep weed seeds from reaching the soil to germinate. Secondly, it will block sunlight from those seeds that do reach the soil. It is important that you know the difference between mulch and compost if you choose this method of natural weed control, since compost will provide your weed seeds with even more nutrients and encourage their growth.

16. Crowd them out.

Use ground covers and close plantings to compete with weeds for water, light and nutrients to crowd out undesirable plants. If it is an area where you do not plan on planting anything else, you can even plant a thug, which is a plant that will happily steal all of the light, nutrients and water from any plants around them – desirable or not – and take over the entire area. Thugs easily crowd out other plants and will readily overpower any weeds that dare grow near them.

17. Rent goats for weed control.

Goats are not the ideal solution for every weed situation, but they are a great choice for hillsides, rocky areas, places that are difficult for humans to reach, and large areas that do not have desirable plants. Goats will eat just about anything in their path, so this is not an option for clearing the weeds in your vegetable garden or around your prized petunias, but they are a viable option for spots where you need some serious weed abatement. You do not need to purchase goats to handle your weed situation; you may have a neighbor who will let you borrow some, or you can rent them from companies or goat farmers who provide goats to clients specifically for this purpose.

Weed Prevention Tips

The best way to deal with weeds is by not having to deal with them at all. Here are a few different ways you can prevent weeds from invading your garden in the first place. 

14. Recycle old newspapers in your garden.

One way to kill weeds naturally is to deprive them of the sunlight they need to grow. If you suspect that there are weed seeds in your flowerbeds or vegetable garden, you can stop them in their tracks by cutting off their exposure to sunlight. 

What to do: Moisten the ground and apply several pages of the daily news to block the sunlight from reaching the soil. This will inhibit their growth and provide weed control until the paper biodegrades and adds carbon matter to your soil.  Of course, this is not the most attractive option, but you can cover the newspaper with mulch to hide the paper and add additional nutrients to your soil as it breaks down.

15. Install landscaping fabric.

If you are planning to install an artificial grass lawn, paving stone patio, gravel walkway, or brick driveway, it is always a good idea to include weed-blocking landscaping fabric in the installation process. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and adding this one step to hardscape installations can significantly reduce the amount of time you spend pulling weeds later on.

What to do: Install your landscape fabric in your garden area to prevent any weed growth. You can also prevent weeds in established flowerbeds and borders by installing landscaping fabric around plants and under wood chips or gravel.

16. Seal cracks in pavement.

If you are mostly concerned about weeds growing up through seams or cracks in concrete driveways, walkways, patios, or sidewalks, you may be able to eradicate your weed problem by simply filling in those cracks. 

What to do: Apply the crack filler into the seams and cracks with a caulking gun or squeezable bottle. This will smother tiny weeds that are just beginning to grow and help prevent future weeds from making their way up through the cracks. If you have existing weeds, you will need to kill and remove them before applying the cement crack filler.

17. Block the sunlight with mulch.

Applying a thick layer of mulch around your desirable plants or on larger patches of bare dirt provides two-part weed control that does not require chemical-laden herbicides or hours of pulling weeds. 

First, the mulch provides a barrier that will help keep weed seeds from reaching the soil to germinate. Secondly, it will block sunlight from those seeds that do reach the soil. It is important that you know the difference between mulch and compost if you choose this method of natural weed control, since compost will provide your weed seeds with even more nutrients and encourage their growth.

What to do: Add a barrier of mulch around the desired plants in your garden to block out weeds from sunlight. 

Benefits of Homemade Weed Killer

Natural herbicides are generally preferred since they’re less harmful to the environment. Beyond that, there are some other considerations that make homemade weed killers a better option than chemicals. Here are three great reasons to opt for a natural herbicide. 

Environmentally Friendly 

Since pesticides are meant to be toxic to the organism they’re designed to kill, they can damage the entire ecosystem around the weed as well. While not all pesticides are equally harmful, homemade alternatives are a safer option for protecting the environment. 

While glyphosate, the major chemical in Roundup, is known to be a relatively harmless chemical in comparison to others, opting for a natural herbicide can quell concerns about applying toxic chemicals to the soil. 

Harmless to Animals  

Chemical weed killers harm animals that consume them. Whether it’s a pet, insect, or other garden creature, these toxic chemicals can be very dangerous, and sometimes deadly, for animals to consume.  

When it comes to protecting pets and other animals, vinegar, salt, and boiling water are all safer alternatives to glyphosate. Therefore, if your dog typically takes strolls through your lawn, garden, or driveway, you won’t have to worry about it licking up harmful chemicals. 

Readily Available 

The best thing about homemade weed killers is that they’re readily available in your kitchen. Salt, cornstarch, vinegar, and boiling water are all effective practices for killing weeds — and you don’t even have to leave your home to get them. 

Since natural herbicides are cheap and readily available, there’s no reason to opt for chemicals. Using the elements at your fingertips is a foolproof way to kill nagging weeds and protect the environment and wildlife.

Frequently Asked Questions 

Still have questions about getting pesky weeds out of your garden? We’ve got you covered. Here are some common questions and answers about killing and preventing weeds. 

Is it better to pull or spray weeds? 

For larger infestations, spraying weeds will be more effective than pulling each individually. When pulling weeds, you’ll want to pull them one by one to ensure you pull the root. So if you’re dealing with a smaller patch of weeds, pulling is a better bet — as sprayed weeds will have to be pulled out of the ground later on anyways. 

Should you spray for weeds before or after mowing?

Weed killers are most effective when weeds have lots of leaves, so it’s best not to mow during the five or so days before you spray the area. Weeds absorb pesticides through their leaves before they target the root. 

Additionally, it’s best to wait around 2 days after spraying before you mow. This gives the leaves time to absorb the pesticide. 

What will kill a large area of weeds?

There are a few solutions for killing large areas of weeds. Spraying the area with pesticides should get the job done as long as you avoid desirable plants. Other effective solutions include using a blow torch, spreading newspapers over the area, and spreading a natural preventative like cornmeal over the infested area. 

Does bleach kill weeds?

Bleach does kill weeds; however, it can be very damaging to the soil if overused. Bleach can do lasting damage to the quality of your soil and can harm pets and garden critters. As a result, it’s best to opt for another solution. 

Protect Your Garden From Weeds 

Now that you know how to kill and prevent weeds, you can move forward to creating the garden and outside areas you’ve always wanted. 

For driveways especially, a foolproof way of preventing weeds is using a professional paving service to fill unruly cracks in pavements that oftentimes become home to weeds. Check out our paving services to learn more about our process and prices.

The post How to Kill and Prevent Weeds: 17 Natural Solutions appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

What Is a Dog Run?

A dog run is an outdoor structure designed for dogs to run, lounge and play freely. Dog runs are typically located in a back or side yard and can be open or enclosed spaces. 

Benefits of Having A Dog Run 

Even if you have a well-fenced backyard where your pets can run, play and explore, you may still need a dog run. This is particularly true if you have an at-home daycare, do a lot of outdoor entertaining, or have a dog that is a fence jumper, digger or otherwise-creative escape artist. Here are some benefits to adding a dog run to your yard: 

• Creates a safe space for dogs to play, sleep and relax outdoors 
• Gives dogs the ability to run freely without supervision
• Separates dogs from areas like gardens, pools, and other backyard attractions
• Keeps your natural grass from browning due to dog urine

Whatever the reasons for needing a dog run, most homeowners would prefer an enclosure that complements their landscape design and does not take away from the overall look of their yard.

7 Dog Run Ideas 

Simple strip dog run

Great for side yards and limited space, strip dog runs typically range from __ to __ ft and are much longer than they are wide. The long strip of yard allows dogs plenty of space to run, without taking up too much space width-wise.  

Large, unrestricted dog run 

Many pet owners want a dog run to give their furry friend the space they need to get their energy out and play to their heart’s content. A large, unenclosed dog run allows just that. Use your entire backyard or section of a large portion of it to give high energy dogs a place to play freely.

Small patio dog run 

Sometimes large dog runs aren’t needed – especially for smaller, low-energy furry friends. A small dog run equipped with a dog-house, a fence and artificial turf ground cover is great for small backyards and even apartment patio areas.

Enclosed dog run 

Enclosed areas are great peace of mind for pet-owners with rather curious pups that like to run off. They’re also versatile in the fact that they can be placed anywhere in the yard – including front and side yards! Enclosed dog runs can be made with virtually any type of material. Some popular choices are: 

• Wood 
• Vinyl 
• Metal
• Chain-link

Aerial dog run

Not interested in installing any fencing? An aerial dog run is a line that connects two points of your yard that your dog can run on via a leash. These are relatively inexpensive and are great for dogs with lots of energy. 

Note: It’s possible for your dog to get entangled in the leash, so it’s important to keep an eye on your pup with this type of dog run.

Stimulating dog run 

Some pups have more energy than others. A dog run with sensory-stimulating elements such as tires, rocks, ramps and other climbing features can help your active pup stay active and occupied throughout the day. 

Elegant Dog Run 

Want your doggie area to match the aesthetics of your already beautiful yard? Design a custom dog run that matches your landscape by adding stepping stones, plants, artificial grass, water features, retaining walls and more.

How To Build The Perfect Backyard Dog Run

1. Pick the Right Spot for Your Dog Run 

The first step in building an enclosure for your dogs is to pick a spot that will work well for you and them. It should be out of the way enough to not interfere with outdoor entertaining or activities, but still close enough to the house for you to be able to check on your dog periodically. If you want your dog to be able to go in and out of the house while you are not home without needing to leave a door open, you may want to consider placing your outdoor kennel adjacent to a side door with a doggie door installed.

Or, if you have an appropriately sized side yard that you are not using for storage or as a vegetable garden, you may want to place your enclosure there, which will ensure that it is out of the way and allow you to use less fencing, since you will only need to close off each end of the space.

Consider Shaded Areas

The spot you choose should be in partial shade to allow your dog to get out of the hot San Diego sun and should be close to a water source to make rinsing down the run and filling up water bowls more convenient. If it is not possible to build a dog run in the shade, you can also add shade to the area with a dog house, cover or patio umbrella.

2. Choose the Right Size

You should also pick the largest spot possible, particularly if your dog will be spending a lot of time in the enclosure, to make sure that he or she has plenty of room to run, play and explore without feeling cramped in a small space. At minimum, the space should be at least twice as wide and about five times as long as the length of your dog.

You should also choose a spot with good drainage to ensure that your dog will not be standing in mud or water if it happens to rain.

3. Select a Design 

Portable vs. Built-In

While portable runs are generally more affordable, and are easy to remove or relocate, they may not be sturdy enough for a determined escape artist and likely will not complement your landscape design as well as a custom-built enclosure. For those who are not overly concerned with the look of their kennel, portable options are available for less than $100 and can be easily setup in an afternoon, but this type of structure is not going to work for homeowners who care about the visual appeal of their outdoor living spaces.

After all, chain link fencing – which is what most portable, pre-made dog runs are made of – does not go well with a beautiful paving stone patio, manicured flower beds or perfectly placed water features.So, it’s a good thing that there are plenty of other options for building an attractive dog run that both you and your furry friends will love!

Open vs. Enclosed 

Open dog runs give your pup the sense that they have their very own yard. For open dog runs, be sure that your fence or perimeter is high enough where your dog can’t jump over it.

An enclosed area may be great for pets that are undergoing puppy training, or have . For enclosed dog runs, it’s best to make sure the roof is high enough for your pet to jump and move around. Any dog run should be at least twice as wide and five times as long as the length of your dog. This is especially important for an enclosed play area.

Things to Consider When Selecting a Design

• Permits: You may need to obtain a permit prior to constructing your dog run depending on its height and size. Check with your local governing body to see if a permit is required for your design.
• Bigger, stronger dogs require studier fencing options.
• Height: You will need to build a taller dog run with a top on the enclosure for dogs that jump or climb.
• Covered vs. Uncovered: You may want to put a roof on your dog run if part of its purpose is to protect your pets from wild animals like mountain lions or coyotes living in your area.
• Doggie Door: If you plan on placing the enclosure adjacent to an exterior door that has a doggie door, make sure you design the run to be tall enough for you to conveniently use the door to access the area.
• Built-in vs. Portable: Finally, you will need to decide if you want to purchase a pre-made, portable dog run or construct a permanent enclosure.

4. Selecting Dog Run Fencing 

Chain Link Fencing

Chain link fencing is the most common type of enclosure, most likely for its many beneficial qualities, including affordability, sturdiness and availability. It also allows your dog to see out through the fence with ease and for you to see in to conveniently check on your dog. However, this is definitely not the best-looking option available and likely will not appeal to homeowners who have invested their time and money in creating an attractive backyard.

Of course, there is an easy, affordable way to make this inexpensive dog run fencing option a viable option for higher-end backyards: You can paint it. Painting chain link fencing dark green will make it blend in better with a lush lawn or landscaped yard, while painting it dark brown will allow it to blend in better with wooden fences or wood chip ground covers. If you do plan to paint your fence, make sure you use a non-toxic product that is intended for outdoor use.

Metal Fencing 

You can also use wood or ornate metal fencing to give your dog run a higher-end look, just make sure the spaces between the wood or metal are large enough for your dogs to see out – and you to see in – but narrow enough that they cannot get their head through the fence.

Wood Fencing

Easy to maintain and inexpensive to install, wood fencing is a great option for pet-owners looking for a natural look. However, wood may not be a great option if your pet likes to chew or jump on the material, as it isn’t as sturdy as metal or plastic materials. When opting for a wood fence dog run fence, be sure to choose a non-toxic stain or paint.

Plastic-Coated Wire Fencing

The option that most perfectly balances affordability and visual appeal is usually plastic-coated wire fencing with wood posts. This attractive option provides the sturdiness you need for most dog breeds, looks considerably better than chain link fencing and is more affordable than wood. All of these options are available at home and garden centers, so you can easily compare sturdiness and price before making your final decision.

When looking for wood posts for your run, naturally durable options – such as redwood and cedar – offer a higher-end look; however, treated lumber is a more affordable option and will also do the job.

4. Choose A Ground Cover 

You may be able to build a dog run on existing groundcover if it is safe for your pet and allows for proper drainage. Here are eight dog run ground cover options to consider:

1. Natural Grass
2. Wood Chips
3. Gravel
4. Concrete
5. Paving Stones
6. Dirt
7. Artificial Grass
8. Rubber Padding

Natural Grass

Natural grass provides a soft ground cover that most dogs enjoy. While this is a popular option that many homeowners use, there are some factors to take into consideration before placing your run over conventional grass.

For example, you will need to care for this grass just like you would a lawn, which means regular mowing, watering and weeding.You will also need to be sure to use only non-toxic insecticides and herbicides, will have to contend with brown spots in areas often used as a pet restroom and will need to pay attention to the strong potential for bacterial buildup in the soil. If your dogs are active, you may also have to deal with bare spots left by clumps of grass being pulled up during play.

Wood Chips

Some dog owners prefer the look of wood chips placed over landscaping fabric, which is another popular option. This ground cover will definitely make your dog run more visually appealing; however, wood chips provide a good breeding ground for bacteria – particularly because you cannot simply rinse urine out of the run, and you will need to regularly add more wood chips to replace those lost when picking up solid waste and to keep this option looking fresh.

Gravel

Gravel is a rather popular option for dog runs and can be a good choice. If you want to go with gravel, make sure you choose pea gravel, which is usually rounder and does not have quite as many sharp edges as other types of gravel. Gravel can be hard on your dog’s feet, so it is not a good option for dogs with sensitive paws. It is also not a good option for dogs who like to chew on rocks, as it can cause significant dental damage.

Concrete

A concrete pad is easy and inexpensive to pour, making this an option that many homeowners choose. A concrete dog run can simply be rinsed down to remove liquid waste, and solid waste is very easy to remove. Dogs with sensitive paws may find this option to be a bit abrasive, and make sure there is plenty of shade if you plan to use this option in sunny Southern California where concrete can become quite hot quite quickly.

Paving Stones

Creating a paving stone floor for your dog run is more expensive than pouring concrete, but it is also far more visually appealing. This option provides a slip-resistant surface that allows for easy solid waste removal and easy cleaning by simply rinsing it off with a garden hose. Paving stones can also become warm in direct sunlight, so shade should be a priority if you choose to use pavers for the entire floor of your enclosure.

Dirt

Building your dog run on existing dirt is the cheapest option; although, it does not offer much in the way of visual appeal. If graded properly, this is a viable option that will help you stay within budget, but you may have the added headache of cleaning up muddy or dirty paw prints when you let your dog back in the house. This option will also likely increase dust in your yard, which may mean more frequent cleaning for patios and patio furniture.

Artificial Grass

Synthetic turf provides the look and feel of natural grass without the concerns about brown spots, bare spots, mowing, watering, weeding, or needing herbicides and insecticides. Solid waste is easy to remove, urine can be rinsed away with a garden house, and you can keep a spray bottle of one part water, one part vinegar on hand to spray down areas that are frequently used for urination. To completely remove the urine smell, you will want to use a turf odor eliminator.

• Take a look at Urine Zero: The Pet Odor / Urine Smell Removal 

Fake grass can also limit digging and is a non-toxic, pet-friendly option that requires very little maintenance.

Rubber Padding

While this is significantly more expensive than other options, rubber padding is easy to clean and provides a safe, attractive surface for a dog run. To make it even easier to clean any of these dog run ground cover options, you may want to consider the addition of a pheromone-treated urine stick, which will encourage your pets to use just that area to relieve themselves.

5. Create Shade 

Shade is a dog run feature of particular importance in the San Diego area, where nearly every day is a sunny day, and temperatures can soar in warmer months. It may be possible to take advantage of existing shade in your yard from trees, fences, covered patios or your house, but you may have to create shade to ensure the safety and comfort of your dog.

Here are five easy ways to create shade:

1. Add a Dog House

You can either make an access point in the fence to attach a dog house to the outside of your enclosure, or place a dog house inside the dog run. A dog house will provide protection from the sun, as well as unexpected wind or rain that may occur while you are away from home. If you put a dog house inside the run, make sure your dog cannot use it as a way to jump over the fence. This can be accomplished with strategic placement or by adding a roof to your run.

2. Add a Pergola over the Entrance

Installing a pergola at the entrance to your enclosure will immediately increase visual appeal while also adding some shade to the area. Small, pre-made pergolas are available at most home and garden centers, or you can construct your own.

3. Install Shade Structures

Shade structures are an inexpensive way to add shade anywhere in your yard, but you will need to choose carefully to ensure that this feature adds to the look of your yard, rather than taking away from it.

4. Repurpose a Patio Umbrella

You can repurpose an extra patio umbrella you have in your garage or purchase one at a patio furniture store to add a stylish shade option to protect your dog from the sun.

5. Build a Solid Roof

If you plan to put a roof on your dog run, you can simply make part of it a solid cover that will block the sun and provide shade.

How to Build a Dog Run: Final Considerations

The purpose of a dog run is to provide your dog with a safe, comfortable, enjoyable place to be when he or she is not inside with you or enjoying your full backyard.

In order to make your dog run an inviting hangout and keep it from becoming a cage, choose a comfortable ground cover, provide plenty of shade, always have clean drinking water readily available, and be sure to include some of your dog’s favorite toys and a cozy place to lie down for a nap.

Frequently Asked Questions 

Which ground material cover is best for dog runs? 

There are all types of ground covers that can be used for your dog run: 

• Natural Grass
• Wood Chips
• Gravel
• Concrete
• Paving Stones
• Dirt
• Artificial Grass
• Rubber Padding

To choose the best ground cover for your dog run area, consider the look you’re going for, how active your pet is, whether or not they dig, whether or not the area will be shaded, etc. View a full breakdown of how to choose the right ground cover for your pup here. 

Frequently Asked Questions

What type of dog run is best for dogs that like to dig?

If you have a digger, you will need to take special precautions when constructing your run, such as burying the fence below ground, adding chicken wire under the ground cover around the edges or installing a paving stone border to prevent digging.

Are dog runs good for dogs? 

Dog runs are a great way to let your pooch out into the yard without having to worry about them running off or getting into something they shouldn’t. That being said, it’s important that your dog run is a good match with your dog’s personality and playing habits. For larger, more rambunctious dogs, a long and wide dog run might be best to give them the space to run and let out their energy. Conversely, a small dog may only need a small space on your patio or yard for relaxed play. Decide what’s best for your dog and design your dog run to fit their needs.

What can I use instead of grass for my dog run? 

There are a multitude of ground covers that are both safe and low-maintenance for dogs. A few of the most popular ground cover options include artificial grass, wood chips, gravel and rubber padding.

The post Dog Run Ideas: How To Build A Backyard Dog Run appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

So, before you go for more expensive, lethal, or toxic methods, try natural, non-toxic, and (mostly) non-lethal home remedies to keep snails and slugs out of gardens.

Table of Contents:

• Are slugs bad for plants?
• What do slugs eat?
• Where do slugs live?
• Signs of slugs in your garden
• How to get rid of slugs and snails naturally
• FAQs

Slug and Snail Facts 

To understand how to best ward off these gross little pests, it’s important to understand a bit more about them and what they mean for your garden. 

Are Slugs Bad for Plants?

Slugs can do a lot of damage to plants, which means danger for your garden. In fact, a family of slugs can wipe out a vegetable crop or an entire garden in a matter of days, so if you spot slugs it’s important to act promptly. 

What do Slugs Eat?

Slugs are known to eat just about anything green. In fact there’s almost nothing in your garden they won’t eat. Slugs are particularly partial to the leafy parts of plants, stems and seedlings, so it’s common for them to devastate young, growing plants. They’re also known to take bites out of ripe fruits as these release a natural chemical called ethylene, which slugs and snails are especially attracted to. 

Snails and slugs are also particularly attracted to some plants including:

• Basil
• Cabbage
• Beans
• Lettuce
• Kale

Where Do Slugs Live?

Because slugs and snails have slimy, moist bodies, they also prefer moist environments out of direct sunlight. So when you’re wondering where they’re living in your garden, check for moisture prone areas, especially places hidden from the sunlight like overgrown vegetation, under rocks, mulch, boards or even planting pots. This is where you can usually find these pests when they aren’t chowing down on your leafy greens. 

Signs Of Slugs in Your Garden

If you notice any of the following, you may have slugs or snails in your garden.

• Irregularly shaped holes in plants, especially in new plants
• Slime trails on mulch and plants
• Chewed seedlings or seedling leaves
• Small scalloped bite marks around the edges of plant leaves

Note: Snails and slugs typically like to wreak havoc on gardens in the Spring – before other insects come out. 

How to Get Rid of Slugs and Snails Naturally

Read on to learn about 15 ways to get rid of snails and slugs from your garden without having to use pesticides and other harmful chemicals. 

1. Remove them by hand.

Picking out snails and slugs from your plants by hand is one of these easiest methods for removal, however, it is incredibly time consuming and doesn’t guarantee that they won’t come back. In fact, most times you’ll quickly find them again. 

If you choose to go this route, you’ll need to do a regular check of your garden for these pests, hand pick them, and make sure you place them far away (we recommend 20-50 feet). This method is free and completely natural, so it is worth trying if you have the time and are okay with touching snails and slugs.

2. Surround your garden beds with wood chips, gravel or bark.

The slimy, tender bodies of snails and slugs don’t like crawling over sharp or uncomfortable objects, so they’ll have a more difficult time getting to your plants if they are surrounded by ground covers that are not easy to slide over. 

Therefore, if you add a layer of wood chips, gravel, or bark to your garden beds, this will help repel snails and slugs naturally. Adding a ground cover with a texture that is unpleasant to snails is a natural garden pest repellent that will prevent snails and slugs from eating your plants.

3. Water your garden in the AM.

Snails and slugs are known for destroying gardens at night. They also have difficulty moving across dry soil compared to moist soil. So, if we put these two pieces of knowledge together, we have another way to keep snails and slugs out of your garden: watering early in the morning. 

This gives the top layer your garden soil some time to dry out before the evening when slugs do the most damage, which makes it more difficult for slugs and snails to get to your plants.

4. Surround your plants or garden beds with copper.

When slugs or snails come in contact with copper, they get the jolt of an electrical shock due to how slimy their bodies are. This shock deters them and they’ll quickly turn around. Most home improvement or garden stores sell adhesive copper tape that you can conveniently use to surround your garden planters. 

Some alternatives to copper tape include sprinkling copper pennies around your soil or gluing them to the perimeter of a garden bed. If you choose to sprinkle pennies around your soil, you’ll want to place them tightly together, so slugs and snails don’t have a pathway in between that they can sneak through to your plants. 

5.  Make your garden bird friendly.

There are lots of species of birds that eat slugs and snails. This means that you can reduce your snail and slug population by taking steps to attract more birds to your yard. This method means the snails and slugs will die, however, it’s part of nature and the natural food chain. Additionally it means you don’t have to use chemical pesticides in your garden. It is also a quicker death than they would experience with snail poison or drowning methods.

6. Get rescue chickens.

Backyard chickens are a perfect addition to gardens. They provide manure for composting, lay eggs for food, turn the soil, and help control unwanted garden pests and insects. Slugs, snails and their eggs are included in the garden pests that chickens love to dine on, which means adding a chicken coop to your yard might be the perfect solution to your snail problem. 

You can always purchase chicks at a local feed store, but you will get more karma points for adopting rescue chickens that need a good home. If you live in a more rural area and have the space, geese or ducks are also options.

7. Place broken eggshells around your garden.

Similar to surrounding your plants with gravel, wood chips or bark, the sharp edges of broken eggshells are a great deterrent to keep slugs out of the garden and snails away from your plants. The broken edges are painful for them to travel over, which is why this is effective as a natural repellent. 

If you opted for the backyard chickens mentioned above, you can use the shells from their eggs for this purpose. If not, you can use your leftover breakfast eggshells. Crush up the shells and spread them throughout your garden beds and around your plants. Eventually, the shells will biodegrade. This introduces more soil nutrition, which makes this a particularly beneficial method.

8. Use coffee grounds.

You may already spread coffee grounds in your garden to add nutrients to the soil. Another benefit of surrounding your plants with coffee grounds is that they help keep slugs and snails out of your garden.

9. Make a DIY slug and snail repellent.

There are two commonly used options for making a homemade slug and snail repellent:

1. Option 1: Simply pour iced coffee or cold brew into a bottle with a spray nozzle, and then spray the coffee on and surrounding your plants.
2. Option 2: Mix garlic and water in a spray bottle, and then spray the mixture on and around your plants.

Be careful not to spray the coffee directly onto the slugs or snails, since it will kill them. To use it as a non-lethal deterrent, spray it just on and around your plants. 

10. Plant bait plants

Bait plants are essentially plants that you don’t care about that you plant on the outskirts of your garden to attract slugs and snails away from your actual garden — e.g. if you want to protect a certain crop of plants in your garden bed, you can plant lettuce (a slug and snail favorite) towards the back perimeter. You can then pick off the snails and remove them as necessary.  

11. Plant herbs.

Herbs such as rosemary, sage, lavender, thyme, mint and parsley are all great additions to a garden because they look and smell nice. They also serve the benefit of warding off slugs and snails if you plant them as perimeter plants because slugs and snails do not like plants with a strong fragrance. Lavender is one of the strongest smelling herbs making it an excellent choice.

12. Spread salt or baking soda.

This is a lethal option, so, if you are trying to naturally deter snails without killing them, this is not the option to choose. Baking soda and salt dry out snails and slugs, which will kill them. This is incredibly painful for them and is not a nice way to kill them, but, since it is such a commonly used method, we did want to mention it here. So, it is an option, but it would be better to try other options on this list first.

13. Bait snails and slugs with beer.

A slug beer trap is another lethal option and should only be used if your goal is to kill the snails. Place a shallow dish or pan of beer in your garden. The snails and slugs will be attracted by the yeast and will crawl into the beer where they will drown and die. Again, this kills the snails instead of just warding them off, so you might want to try some of the other options first.

14. Surround with citrus.

Because slugs and snails are attracted to fruits, another option is to surround your garden with leftover peels of oranges, lemons, grapefruits or limes. Do so before night time and in the morning you’ll likely see the slugs and snails feasting on these treats instead of on your garden. You can then remove the pests.

15. Plant marigolds – but outside of your garden.

Marigolds are commonly known as a natural pest control, however slugs and snails are attracted to them as they are dahlias, hostas and delphiniums. What this means is that, similar to planting other sacrificial plants, you can plant marigolds on the outskirts of your garden to attract these pests there. Then remove the slugs and snails accordingly. 

Getting Rid of Slugs and Snails For Good

Slugs and snails are common pests, especially in coastal communities like Carmel Valley, La Jolla and Point Loma, but they don’t have to be at the end of your garden. Keeping your garden tidy and knowing how to control them is just part of keeping your outdoor living space thriving. Be sure to keep your garden as tidy and clean-cut as possible to keep snails and slugs from entering in the first place. 

For more tips on ways to improve your outdoor living space, Install-It-Direct is here to help you. We’ve provided landscape design services to San Diego and the surrounding areas for over 25 years! 

Frequently Asked Questions

Do slugs have a purpose?

Slugs can be beneficial to an extent because when they chew on and break down garden debris it converts to nitrogen-rich fertilizer. This in turn can enhance the nutritional value of the soil in a similar way that worm composting works. Slugs and snails are also beneficial as a food source for birds and other common garden critters like frogs, toads and snakes.

Should you kill slugs in your garden?

Like we mentioned above, slugs (in moderation) can serve some purpose for soil nutrition, however, they frequently become rampant and destroy gardens. Snails are also known for carrying diseases and parasites which can be a threat to household pets if they get ahold of one. 

Why are there so many slugs in my garden?

Typically, you’ll find a large amount of slugs or snails in your garden after it rains or after you’ve watered your plants. That’s because snails and slugs are moist creatures. They lose a significant position of their body weight by crawling around, and will therefore look for moist places to survive.  

Are slugs poisonous?

No, slugs are not poisonous. The only danger that slugs pose to gardens is that they eat the plants–making them more of a nuisance than a hazard.

The post Slugs in the Garden: 15 Solutions For Getting Rid of Slugs and Snails Naturally appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

So, if you have spots under shade trees, near fences or adjacent to structures that are in part or full shade, you might need a little help finding attractive shade plants that will thrive in these conditions.

To that end, here are 20 of the best plants for shade to help you make your garden a success this year.

1. Hostas

Hostas are first on the list because they are pretty much the go-to plants for shade. Hostas are available in many varieties and are attractive perennials with big, showy leaves that vary widely in color and texture. They are easy to grow, do well in shade and add great color to your garden.

They are toxic to cats, dogs and horses when ingested, so if you share your yard with pets that like to nibble on plants, hostas might not be the right choice for you. If this is not an issue, these are the first shade plants to turn to when designing landscaping for areas with lots of shade.

Zones: 3-9

Height: 2 inches to 4 feet tall

2. Begonias

Most begonias prefer morning sun and afternoon shade, so if that is the situation in the spot you are trying to fill, begonias are a perfect choice. If your flowerbed is shaded most of the day, opt for tuberous begonias, which do better with more shade.

Begonias do not do well in colder weather, so if you live in an area that regularly sees the temperature drop below 50 degrees, you will need to bring them inside or put them in a greenhouse for the winter.

While begonias prefer moist soil and, therefore, are not a great choice for drought-tolerant landscaping, they do add some fantastic color with their deep green or patterned leaves and bright flowers.

Zones: 9, 10

Height: 8 inches to 2 feet

3. Lily of the Valley

If children and pets do not frequent your garden, Lily of the Valley is an attractive shade plant you might consider. While it is okay if a child or dog touches a Lily of the Valley while playing, all parts of the plant are poisonous when ingested. If this is not an issue, these attractive shade plants feature tiny, white flowers and can fill a flowerbed quickly.

Lily of the Valley is a perennial plant that spreads through seeds and underground rhizomes, so it can spread quickly and can be divided to feature in containers or other areas of your yard. You might also consider growing these shade plants in containers to keep them from spreading.

Zones: 3-9

Height: 6 to 12 inches

4. Hydrangeas

Most hydrangeas need full sun in the morning followed by shade in the afternoon, but there are some varieties that will tolerate partial shade throughout the day. Since hydrangeas prefer moist soil, they are not the best choice for drought-conscious gardeners, but they do offer stunning bunches of blooms in shades of pink, white, purple, blue, and red.

Aside from regular watering, you can feed your hydrangeas once a year when the weather is cool, but keep in mind that overfertilizing could result in fewer blooms, since the plant will focus on growing leaves.

Zones: 3-9

Height: 2 to 3 feet; sometimes up to 6 feet tall

5. Geraniums

Not all geraniums love the shade, but there are many varieties that will thrive in full or partial shade in your garden. This easy-to-grow bloomer can be grown as a perennial in most parts of Southern California. If you live in an area where the temperature drops below their comfort zone, you can always bring them inside for the winter or grow them as annuals.

Usually found in shades of pink, purple, blue, or white and available in sizes ranging from less than one foot in height to more than seven feet, geraniums definitely come in a variety that will fill that shady spot in your yard.

Zones: 10, 11

Height: 4 inches to 4 feet

6. Ferns

When ferns are growing in the wild, it is often in woodland areas beneath the canopy of trees or interspersed in crevices on rocky slopes. So, it should come as no surprise that many varieties of ferns can be perfect additions to shade gardens.

Ferns are a particularly good choice if you are looking for lush, feathery foliage to cover a large space and are not concerned about colorful flowers. While many ferns are not low-water options, purchasing from a local nursery can help you find varieties that grow well in Southern California without wasting water. Regardless of the fern variety you choose, you will need to water it regularly until it is established. Once established, these shade plants should thrive in your garden with weekly irrigation and yearly feeding.

As an added bonus, ferns can be planted on shady hillsides to control erosion.

Zones: 4-8

Height: 1 to 6 feet

7. Heuchera

Heuchera, aka alumroot or coral bells, tolerates partial shade and encourages bees and birds to visit your garden. The many varieties available offer a wide range of hues complimented by the bell-shape blooms that appear in late spring and summer.

You will need to divide these evergreen perennials every few years to keep them thriving. Simply dig up the plant, divide the root system to make a few separate plants, and then plant each of the divided plants for long-lasting color and texture in your garden.

Zones: 4-9

Height: 6 to 16 inches

8. Sweet Alyssum

The tiny, delicate blooms of alyssum make a great ground cover around other shade plants or can be planted in a container garden as a filler or on its own to spill over the edges. Alyssum varieties generally come with white, pink or purple flowers, all of which do well in shade. If the spot you are filling is in deep shade, you might consider going with a purple variety, since these seem to have the most potential for thriving in shade.

Alyssum is a shorter plant and grows to only about four to eight inches high, so it is best at the front of a border or as a ground cover between other plants.

Zones: 5-9

Height: 3 to 9 inches

9. Coprosma (Mirror Plant)

Mirror plants add year-round color to your garden starting with shiny, deep-green leaves that eventually become mottled with orange or pinkish hues. Since this hardy shrub is drought tolerant, thrives in coastal areas and requires little care once established, mirror plants are a good choice for Southern California gardens and for busy homeowners. It does just fine in salty air, so it is particularly good for folks living near the beach.

While coprosmas prefer full sun, they will survive in partial shade. You will need to water your mirror plant regularly until established. Once established, it will need extra irrigation during hot or dry spells. Annual fertilizing and pruning will also help your coprosma thrive.

Zones: 9, 10

Height: 4 to 5 feet

10. Dead Nettle (Lamium)

If you need shade plants for a spot that gets little sun during the day, dead nettle might be the option for you. These easy-care, flowering plants are often used as a quick-growing ground cover and will grow in flowerbeds and borders or in containers. The most common colors for dead nettle blooms are white, pink and purple.

It is important to remember that all varieties of lamium are members of the mint family, so they can be invasive and can take over your yard if you let them. To avoid this, you can cut them back to encourage compact growth or you can divide these perennials every spring to plant them in other areas of your yard or to give away to other folks with shady spots to fill.

Zones: 4-10

Height: around 6 inches

11. Toad Lilies

Toad lilies are one of the most beautiful plants for shade gardens and add an exotic look that makes them a welcome addition in cutting gardens as well. Blooms come in white, pink, purple, yellow, and blue and this pretty perennial will do just as well in containers as they will in the ground.

Toad lilies are generally easy to care for; however, they do require regular watering and are usually not drought tolerant. It is also important to note that toad lilies are a member of the lily family and all parts of the plant are poisonous. This means that these shade plants are not a good choice for planting near play areas for small children or your pet’s favorite spot for an afternoon nap.

Zones: 4-9

Height: 1 to 3 feet

12. Vinca Major and Vinca Minor (Periwinkle, Creeping Myrtle)

Vinca major and vinca minor are perennial, evergreen ground covers that thrive in shade. While vinca minor is a bit more shade loving than vinca major, either of these options will do fine in your shade garden. Vinca major is a bit bigger than vinca minor, does not tolerate cold weather quite as well, and its vines can spread more aggressively. So, if you are looking for something that can quickly cover the ground in a shady spot and you do not mind some serious spreading out, vinca major might be your best bet. If you want the hardiest, most shade-loving option, go with vinca minor.

Vincas prefer moist soil, but they are drought tolerant. Historically, vinca major was used to treat high blood pressure, so it is probably not a good idea to allow children or pets to spend a lot of time around the vinca unattended. Consuming a small amount is likely harmless, but consuming too much could cause low blood pressure.

Zones: 7-9

Height: 6 to 10 inches

13. Impatiens

Impatiens do not like full sun and do best in partial or full shade. This, of course, makes them a perfect choice for anyone looking for plants for shade.

These annual flowers are great for adding quick color to flowerbeds or containers. They can be planted in between other plants for pops of color, or you can plant several impatiens close together for a large grouping of colorful blooms.

Unfortunately, these little beauties are not drought tolerant and may even require more than one watering a day during the summer if they are planted in containers. However, the good news is that they are not considered toxic to people or pets, so they are a good choice for shady spots where you cats, dogs or kids like to spend time.

Zones: 10, 11

Height: 10 to 16 inches

14. Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons are evergreen shrubs with showy blooms that come in hues of white, pink, purple, red and yellow. While they do require at least some sun, rhodies do well in part shade and are a beautiful addition to shade gardens. With their shallow root systems, regular irrigation is required, particularly when the weather is hot or dry. Most varieties grow to be between three and six feet tall, so this is a good choice for large spaces that need color.

Aside from regular watering, rhododendrons also require acidic soil. Many Southern California gardeners are working with clay soil, so you will need to amend it to shift the pH level to about 5.0 or 5.5 to keep these shade plants happy.

Zones: 4-8

Height: 5 to 6 feet

15. Azaleas

Azaleas are in the same genus as rhododendrons and have similar requirements regarding irrigation, care and soil acidity. Some azalea varieties are evergreen and some are deciduous, so be sure to choose a variety that fits your needs. Different varieties also vary greatly in when they bloom, which can be as early as spring or as late as fall, so do a little research or ask for recommendations at your local garden center to make sure you purchase plants that will bloom at the right time of year to compliment the other plants in your shade garden.

Zones: 6-9

Height: 4 to 6 feet; sometimes up to 20 feet

16. Camellias

Camellias do best in partial shade and come in both shrub and tree varieties. This large bloomer has beautiful, showing flowers in the fall and attractive foliage throughout the year. Camellias do not require excessive water once established, so this is a plus, but they are pretty picky about the few things they are picky about. For example, they cannot survive in neighborhoods that are close enough to the beach to experience salt spray. They also do not tolerate afternoon sun well and, when exposed, will not bloom as readily and can show signs of sunburn.

Zones: 7-10

Height: 6 to 12 feet

17. Lungwort (Pulmonaria)

Lungwort was named for its resemblance to the shape of a lung, which was, at one time believed to mean it would treat lung ailments. Although it proved to have no healing properties related to lung health, the name stuck. While the name might be a bit unfortunate, the spotted foliage and delicate flowers are a beautiful addition to shade gardens. These low-maintenance perennials prefer moist soil until established, and then can tolerate some drought, particularly when planted in the shade.

Lungwort prefers partial shade and will do best in a spot that has some morning sun, but then is shaded for most or all of the afternoon.

Zones: 3-8

Height: 6 to 12 inches

18. Astilbe

Astilbe is a colorful shade plant with showy plumes that attract butterflies to your garden. Flowers are generally shades of white, red, pink or purple, and you can choose varieties with foliage that ranges from light green to deep red for even more color throughout the year.

Astilbes are perennial, so you can pick a spot for planting, and then enjoy them year after year without needing to replant the area. As good plants for shade gardens, astilbes prefer shade in the afternoon and tolerate full shade – just know that you will not get as many floral plumes on astilbes that are in deep shade all day.

Zones: 3-8

Height: 1 to 4 feet

19. Japanese Forest Grass

Japanese forest grass is a good choice for folks in search of shade plants that will enhance their garden’s visual appeal without colorful flowers. This attractive, slow-growing grass grows in mounds that reach about 18 inches in height and, as is common with perennials, it can be divided every few years to provide you with new plants to fill in spots in your garden.

Japanese forest grass requires regular watering and must have shade to survive Southern California’s hot, dry summers.

Zones: 5-9

Height: 12 to 18 inches

20. Spurge

There are thousands of varieties of spurge, which means you can choose between annuals and perennials, green or burgundy foliage, and flowers and bracts that come in white, pink, yellow, orange, red and even green. Most of the plants in this class grow no more than three feet tall, but some varieties of this aggressive spreader can take over a garden border before you know it. This makes it a good choice as a ground cover or for erosion control.

Zones: 3-10

Height: 1 to 3 feet

Look for varieties that are drought tolerant to add color to shaded areas without increasing your water usage.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a full shade plant?

A full shade plant is a plant that can thrive in mostly shaded areas and typically only need a few short hours of direct sunlight per day.

Which plant grows the fastest in the shade?

Rhododendrons and Azaleas grow the quickest in the shade. Rhododendrons have hundreds of varieties to choose from and are relatively low-maintenance while Azalea’s require plenty of water.

Which flowers bloom in the shade?

• Geranium
• Spiderwort
• Campanula
• Impatiens
• Heuchera

This blog was originally posted on Oct 24, 2018 and was updated on June 24, 2022.

The post 20 of the Best Shade Plants appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Whether you have an existing shed you plan to spruce up or will be creating your haven from the ground up, here are plenty of she shed ideas to inspire you and help you create a space that fits your needs.

What is a She Shed?

A she shed is a space for women to have to themselves. Similar to a man cave, a she shed is a place for women to decorate as they please and use it to read, hang out, house plants, or really do anything they want. They are typically backyard structures similar to a shed. Most people choose to redesign or take over their existing shed in the yard and convert it over to a she shed but creativity goes a long way in designing your she shed!

Choosing a Structure

Before you can get down to the business of decorating your she shed and setting it up as the perfect backyard retreat, you will need to choose a structure for this private space. Here are some ideas to help inspire you, but keep in mind that you can create your she shed in almost any space.

Existing Shed – If you have an existing shed that is not being used to its full potential, it might be time to clean it out and transform it into a mini backyard getaway.

Pre-Fab Shed – If you do now have an existing space, a pre-fab shed will likely be the easiest option for adding a she shed to your backyard.

Shed Built Onsite – You can also find shed plans online and build your own she shed from the ground up to truly customize your space.

Playhouse She Shed – If your kids have outgrown their playhouse, transform it into a whimsical adult space just for you.

Greenhouse She Shed – An existing greenhouse – or one you find in the classifieds for a great price – makes a perfect she shed with lots of natural light.

Potting Shed – Along the lines of a greenhouse, a potting shed is a great choice that may be just the right size for a mini-retreat and have plenty of windows for natural light.

Gazebo She Shed – If you do not mind an open-air she shed, transform your gazebo into a dedicated relaxation space. You can hang outdoor curtains to enhance privacy.

Yurt – Yurts are technically tents but they are much sturdier than the tents you take camping and can be set up on a foundation or deck to create additional living space in your backyard.

Treehouse She Shed – Much like a playhouse, an unused treehouse may also be the perfect space to transform from a kids-only hangout to a mom-only retreat.

Garage She Shed – If you do not have a freestanding structure or the space to add one, you can still create some personal space by commandeering all or part of your garage.

Sunroom She Shed – If space is limited but you prefer something a bit airier and with more natural light than your garage has to offer, consider creating your she shed in your sunroom.

Patio, Porch or Balcony She Shed – If you have a small backyard or no backyard at all, you do not have to give up your she shed dreams; you just have to get a little more creative. Hang some curtains or fabric to create a mini retreat on your patio, porch or balcony. Or, if you have a larger backyard, think about creating a she shed with a porch.

Defining Your She Shed’s Purpose

Your she shed can be many things and may transform over time as your interests and lifestyle changes. The purpose of this space is to have a spot that is just for you and suits your needs however you see fit. This may mean that your she shed is a home office during the day and a writer’s retreat at night or that it serves as both your gardening shed and your craft room. So, do not feel like you have to limit your she shed ideas to just using it for one purpose. You just need to have some idea of how you plan on using the space so that you can set it up and decorate it accordingly to best suit those functions.

Here are a few she shed ideas to help you determine how you want to use your backyard retreat:

• Craft room with supply storage and workspace
• Reading room with bookshelves and cozy seating
• Spa room with massage table or sauna
• Workshop with workbench and tool storage
• Art studio with natural light and plenty of storage
• Writers retreat filled with things that inspire you
• Gardening/potting shed with a potting bench
• Media room with popcorn machine or gaming consoles
• Office with everything you need to run your business or see clients at home
• Meditation or yoga space with cushions and mats
• General relaxation space filled with your favorite things

Creating and Decorating Your Space

Remember, there are no rules in she shed design. This is a space that should fit your needs, reflect your style and be filled with things that bring you joy. If you share your home with a partner or children, this may be the one spot where you do not have to take into consideration the needs or style of other members of your family and the one spot where you do not have to compromise to balance your design aesthetic with that of your partner. So, take advantage of this opportunity to create a space that is truly yours.

Since there are no rules and this space should be set up and decorated as you see fit, the following 15 she shed ideas are simply here for inspiration and to help you streamline your ideas into a cohesive design.

1. Don’t forget windows.

Many garden sheds do not have windows, so if you go the pre-fab route, you may need to see if you can customize it to include windows, skylights or French doors. These options let in natural light, allow you to enjoy any views your backyard might have, let you keep an eye on the kids, and help to ensure that you do not feel like you are in a box.

2. Consider window boxes.

Since you will definitely want windows, consider adding window boxes. This is an easy, inexpensive way to make your she shed more welcoming and enhance the exterior look with a feminine touch.

3. Keep it legal.

While there are no rules in she shed design, there will be local ordinances regarding setbacks, maximum height and just how big it can be without falling under strict regulations. If you plan on running electricity or plumbing, you will also need to look into permits.

4. Think about going solar.

You might not be ready for a whole-house solar system, but if all you need is a light or a couple of electrical plugs, you might be able to use solar energy to power your she shed and lower its environmental impact.

5. Make sure your seating is extra comfy.

Regardless of the purpose of your she shed, you are going to need some comfortable seating. You plan on spending quality time in this dedicated space, so make sure you have seating that allows you to comfortably relax while you read, scrapbook or chat with friends over a glass of wine.

6. Include outdoor living space.

Adding a small deck, patio or porch to your she shed will create an inviting atmosphere that allows you to enjoy some me time either in your dedicated space or relaxing outdoors in the attached outdoor living area.

7. Choose light fixtures that reflect your style.

This is your chance to finally have that chandelier you have always wanted or to hang those turn-of-the-century pendant lights that never quite went with the décor in your home. She sheds are small spaces, so every design choice counts. Make sure you choose lighting that is appropriate for your shed’s intended function and reflects your style.

8. Add curtains.

You will likely want natural light streaming in through the windows most of the time, but if you have nosy neighbors, plan to use your she shed at night or might simply want a little extra privacy from time to time, hang curtains so that they will be there when you need them.

9. Add a rug.

A rug is a central focal point that ties a room together and brings coziness to any space. Rugs are also a good way to add texture and color while making your she shed feel more like comfy retreat and less like a shed.

10. Include workspace.

If your she shed ideas include using the space as a craft room, workshop, office, or similar purpose, you are going to need workspace. Include a counter-height workbench or tables to make sure you have plenty of space to spread out craft projects or paperwork.

11. Determine your storage needs.

Cluttered spaces are not relaxing, so make sure you include plenty of attractive storage in your she shed design. If it will be used as a craft room or art studio, you will need plenty of cabinets and drawers for your supplies. If you plan on using it as a reading room, include at least one bookshelf to keep your reading material neatly stored.

12. Limit trips to the house.

Most she sheds do not have bathrooms or kitchens, so you are going to have to come out at some point, but take steps to limit trips to the house once you have settled into your private retreat. This might include setting up a coffee or tea bar, installing a wine refrigerator or installing a video doorbell so that you can tell delivery folks to leave packages on the porch and tell salesmen to go away without running to the front door.

13. Include artwork.

Art can be anything that you find visually appealing. It might be hawk feathers gathered from your property and arranged in a vase, the painting your grandmother gave you as a child, or a sculpture you find at a flea market. Fill your space with art that inspires you and brings you joy to help personalize your she shed and create a relaxing, welcoming environment.

14. Incorporate some of your favorite things into the design.

Whether it is a button collection or a surfboard, your she shed is your opportunity to be surrounded by the things you love. So, be sure to leave room for some of your favorite things while designing your she shed décor.

15. Get creative.

To make the most out of your space, get creative in your design. Look for furniture that performs more than one function, such as a chair that folds out into a bed, and look for unexpected storage opportunities, such as running a shelf along the top of the walls. For lots of ideas on how to make the most of a small space, check out videos or blogs about living in tiny houses, since these folks are experts on how to use one piece of furniture four different ways and how to make sure you are making the most of your space.

Frequently Asked Questions About She Sheds

What can I put in a she shed?

Anything goes in a she shed! Fill it up with anything that will make you happy. If you’re in to taking it slow, maybe add some comfy chairs, some subtle lighting, a few good books, and some candles. If you want to utilize your she shed as a work area, add a work bench, tool rack, and ventilation. Ultimately, fill your space with anything that brings you joy and will get you to use it to the fullest.

What is a good size for a she shed?

A good size for your she shed is a size that allows you to get the most out of it and to accomplish what you want. Most sheds are sized 8×12 or 10×12. If you think you may need more space than a typical shed, think about building your own or upgrading your current shed.

How cheap can you build a she shed?

The price of building a she shed is dependent on current prices of lumber and other items. If you’re going to venture out to build your own she shed, think through the dimensions and what you want your she shed to accomplish. Do you need ventilation? Windows? What about gutters? Once you think through the extent of your she shed, you will be better equipped to start your building journey.

(Original Publication Date: June 17, 2019 | Refresh Date: June 2, 2022)

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